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can this thing be mounted without the 'third pulley'. it seems as if it's been balanced (two drill holes on outside face). if it can, what's a good spacer to use so the bolt can seat properly. thanks

just a note for anyone considering cleaning up their engine bay and don't want to lay out the $$$$ for a shop to do it. the engine is awaiting header pipes and will add photos when the motor is cleaned up .. here are some before and afters. sorry i didn't snap any pics of the engine pulled when it was yellow...guess i got carried away when i started prepping...but it was the typical dirt, grime and junk all over the place... budget: less then $50 for prep material and spray cans, and $29 for the engine hoist rental. i still did the prep work correctly, sanded all metal, repaired minor rust, primed, applied color and clear coats, etc....and got RRREEEAALLLL lucky on the color match!!! i used Dupli-Color brand cans, nice spray nozzle on the things...

looks nice for your first prototype, but it would look better if it were centered and the mesh stuff wasn't exposed at the bottom. sorry, just being honest....

get a bigger hammer...

u might have better luck if you place this ad in the 'parts wanted' section....

like moonpup, i appreciate the craftsmanship...but you couldn't pay me to take it

AAAAhhhhh yes!. now i remember. Thanks!!!

during my engine removal and subsequent engine bay painting and restoration, i came across this little guy...hiding behind my front wheel. can't seem to remember where it goes ) thanks!

hey all, just an addendum to many who ask why your Z may overheat. as stated by 'Sblake' and others. try changing your thermostat to a NISSAN one. get rid of the aftermarket one. in the pic, the NISSAN one is on the left and as you can see the water flow is greater through the larger diameter NISSAN stat. good luck.

pretty sure if you're just taking out the bottom ratchet set, just take out the major structural bolts that hold it to the floor. toss it in the back with the belt still attached...

so i decided to pull the motor in my '72 240 to 'clean her up' and paint the engine bay. while at it, i decided to ditch the oem exhaust manifold and go with MSA's 6-1 header. i currently have the engine and trans together on my bench/stand Q: can i fit the header to the block (while on bench/stand) and still be able to manuever engine, new header and trans back into the car. i ask because the 6-1 header is bigger and wider the stock manifold when i removed the engine. the oem downpipe was attached to my exhaust. thanks in advance for input to anyone who has done this )

..spindle pins made easy. here' how. cut through old bushing/pins with electric sawz-all. take strut tower to machine shop. have them press out the pin with 50-ton press. pay guy $.. install new pins/setting bolt. you're done. the rest is average mechanical knowledge.

carl beck and sblake, in addition to the 3spd and 4spd fans, i think also that the vent selection panel has an 'A/C' choice on the far left of the panel on a factory installed system...

i tried the cheap way out as well by trying to find just the chrome covers on eBay....6months and no luck. i then bought the whole thing after searching about a day...

..? you can get a BRAND NEW CABLE with protective insulation boot for like 10 bux

hey senkyoshi: sorry for delay,...been busy. anywho,..here are some photos of the more difficult parts on the car's floor. basically, you just cut to fit the floor areas, and jamb the vertical pieces into the edges. the seams actually butt very tight where the pile comes out MORE dense, hiding the seam further. the rear deck, under the luggage bar and down the wall behind the seats is ONE piece. the living room carpet bends and holds it's shape...just crunch it and work it a bit for tight areas like the seatbelt area... i don't know what the gray vertical line is under the fuse cover 'on the carpet'....it's not a seam....must be the camera lense p.s. if you want to try it yourself keep in mind: 1. you WILL have sore fingers and knuckles 2. your knees and back WILL be tired 3. you WILL give yourself numerous nicks and cuts from handling the razor knife for two days.....LOLOLOLOLOL

senkyoshi, in reality, the WHOLE floor, tunnel, behind/under seats are oddly shaped. the only piece that was flat was the rear deck, which i just made a GIANT template out of paper, cutting and scotch-taping about 50 pieces of paper together. lay the template on the back of the carpet and cut with NICE AND SHARP boxcutter knife. if you use a dull blade, it will de-string the carpet and wizz you off. keep a 50-pack of blade refills handy. the floors, you just start with a long-ish rectangle (similar in shape to an OEM floormat, to get general coverage of the floor only. then the tunnel and rocker sides, you just push down hard (a separate piece) into the cut edge of the floor piece. bend the carpet (it's very rigid), and trim the pile down so the scuff plate holds it down, the rough edge of the tunnel piece just gets hidden by the console edge. but cut it so it's tight under the side console securing bracket to keep it's downward pressure into the floorpiece. same process under and behind the seats. as for the shock towers, i would think that you may have to be very precise in cutting the pieces where they meet the ouside edges. bending the carpet aroundaa corner will open up the pile and expose the fiber backing (white). you could just cut, bend and fit to shape, then crazy glue some cut fuzzies and fill the edge so you wouldn't see the white fiber backing. depends on the pile density as well....you'd have to mess around one afternoon and try different techniques. it took me a while to do my first Z's carpet....this one is my 3rd carpet job. i'll take some photos later today and post them. sorry i lied. i used three tek screws to hold down the carpet seam behind the console ) mally002, definitley more quiet. i kept the oem padding down there

got it..

senkyoshi: just make your own. i buy black living room carpet for about $75 and cut pieces to fit, butt them real tight. seamless. no glue. it took about 14 pieces to do my whole Z, and about 12hrs of time... the shock towers you'll need some adhesive.. trying to attach a photo of my interior...the 'manage attachments button' isn't opening

i've seen that Z a couple of times on eBay. nice car. i think he might be stuck with it for a while. funky color combo....all due respect for the brown on tan bunch.. betcha it would sell if it were red/black, yellow/black, orange/black, green/black, etc..

thanks guys. sblake: thanks for switch if you can find one ) i'll keep you posted after i talk to a couple of shops..

hey sblake: hit the search button again and found a long post on all of the refrigerants...i'll make some calls to local shops. thanks for the advice )

hey sblake, thanks for the note. the switch does nothing when i turn it. it doesn't 'click' when turning from 'off' to 'on'. where can i find Johnsens freeze 12? i guess i would have to have an A/C mechanic or the like do the charging and reclaimation of the old r-12

hey all, has anyone done the A/C refrigerant conversion. if so, what is entailed? any aftermarket suppliers...good/bad. also, anyone in NJ do this type of work? i have a 77Z. the system runs fine, (on/off switch just broke today...see classifieds!) but i see a lot of foam/air flowing through the site glass in the receiver/drier. it seems to just need a charge, but i know the R-12 is NLA. thanks!!!

all i know is that they're VERY tiny...might just want to go to a fastener specialty store (there's two by me called TDE fasteners and screws unlimited) and try some out...