2toneFatone

The new one melted. The old one doesn't melt, but puts out too much voltage. The mechanic was confident that the regulator was that problem, and not anything else. I hadn't thought of that, but it sounds like it would make for a lot less headaches. Is the new alternator and the adaptor all I would need to do that conversion?

The battery on my '72 240z is leaking acid, and has been replaced several times (on warranty). I don't know much about automotive electronics, so I took it to a mechanic who told me that my voltage regulator was overcharging it. So I got a new one from MSA, and he installed it. After starting the car, it started to melt itself. The old one still works (incorrectly) when hooked up in the same manner. Was there something wrong with the part? should I not go to that mechanic anymore? or could there be a different problem?

I just put new points/condenser on my 72 240z, and now it has a funny problem. When I turn it over, it will fire up like it should, but dies immediately after I let go of the key. It seems to run fine at 1000-2000 rpm when the starter is turning, but I havn't held it for long because I don't want to ruin my starter. It's acting like it's not getting spark. My only hunch is that the ignition switch is faulty, but have never heard of one causing a problem like this. Also, I noticed that my radio and brake light stay on no matter where my key is turned (even if I take it out). This is also a new problem.

I will engage the clutch, it will move, but just barely for a second or 2, and then accelerate as it normally should. It happens bad on the first gear, and a lot less each subsequent gears.

I have a 72 240z with round top SUs and no air pump. It drives ok, but has a 1-2 second lag when starting from a stand still. It is there, but not as noticable when shifting into later gears. I thought it might be a problem with the vacuum lines, but I can't find a diagram or picture that shows my setup. Are there any other likely possibilities? Either way, a diagram, book or picture would be very helpful to get the lines set up properly.

Ok I don't feel so stupid now for not being able to find it because there isn't one. Which means that my stalling problem is probobly because of crud in the gastank.

This is kind of an embarrasing, but I can't find the fuel filter anywhere except for the screens in the carburetors. There is another one right?

I have a 72 240z that starts fine and runs good... most of the time. Every once in awhile it will stall, shake, and then shut off. But it will always start up fine. As far as I can tell, it happens randomly as I havn't been able to find a common cause. It has happened when going down the road at a consistant speed, accellerating, and just idling. I have no idea where to start, as I am not very experienced. Any input would be much apreciated.

I recently replaced the gaskets in the SUs on my '72 240z, put them back on exactly the way they were using several pictures. Now they are backfiring a lot and the car doesn't really want to start, but I can get it to idle (horribly) with shifting rpms, between 1200 and 500. The carbs are the only thing I touched. Could it be a timing problem? It wasn't good before, and might have gotten worse because the distributor is currently being held on with vicegrips. And whether or not it is the problem, is there anywhere that I could purchase a new clip to hold it on, instead of the whole thing? I have looked at several places, with no luck.

I recently purchased a '72 240z and am having issues with the carbs. I don't know a lot about SUs so I havn't done much with them yet. I am having several problems: When starting, the rear one backfires a lot, but only for a little while and consistantly at about 1800rpm. After warming up, it will idle at about 1100-1200rpm, but will jump to over 2000 after driving awhile, then go back down to normal after about 10 minutes. I have never encountered idling problems like this, but have never worked with SUs before At low rpms, it boggs a little and doesn't run well. I cleaned them and put 10w30 fluid in them because I heard that the thicker fluid can help, but that has had little success. Perhaps they are just running lean? These SUs are a lot more confusing than other carbs that I've worked with, so any suggestions or references will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I was only recently introduced into the world of restoring classic cars, and, after much hunting, am now the proud owner of a '72 240z. It runs decent, but is a project car. It will need new tires if I am going to drive her before spring, as it has slicks on right now, and gets no traction in the snow (fun drive home). I was thinking about getting a whole new set of wheels, because there is nothing wrong with the tires and it would be a waste to get rid of them. Then I could switch them out for summer. I was looking at some used rims to try and save a few bucks, but wasn't sure if they would last. Any suggestions? I'm just kinda wingin it right now, and am looking for guidance. If anyone knows of a good place to go for z parts near the omaha area, please let me know. I would much rather talk to a salesperson than order something off of the internet.