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View Advert 1978 Datsun Nissan 280Z owner's manual/service booklet/dealer case Original 1978 Datsun 280Z owner's manual and service booklet with matching dealer vinyl case from First City Auto Sales in Huntington, WV. Overall excellent vintage condition with no tears or missing pages. $45 obo Please feel free to contact me with any questions. Will be happy to meet locally or have a local member examine these in person prior to purchase. Willing to ship to the lower 48 for $5.00 flat rate; all other locations please contact me to discuss shipping. Advertiser mlaw7 Date 06/22/2020 Price $45.00 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert 240Z/260Z/280Z door handle escutcheon mounts Clearing out the last of my S30 parts. Set of five (5) OEM 1970-78 Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z door handle escutcheon mounting brackets. Overall very good condition. Three are structurally sound and should hold both tabs of the chrome electroplated escutcheon firmly and securely in place. As shown in the photos, the retaining lips of other two are very worn and will require repair in order to function correctly. Will consider reasonable offers. Please feel free to contact me with any questions. Will be happy to meet locally or have a local member examine these in person prior to purchase. Willing to ship to the lower 48 for $2.50 flat rate; all other locations please contact me to discuss shipping. Advertiser mlaw7 Date 06/22/2020 Price Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert OEM 240Z/260Z/280Z and miscellaneous radio parts One OEM S30 radio control knob Two matching OEM S30 chrome plated S30 radio knob trim rings Two knobs (unknown make/model) One radio tuning/trim ring (unknown make/model) Will consider reasonable offers. Please feel free to contact me with any questions. Will be happy to meet locally or have a local member examine these in person prior to purchase. Willing to ship to the lower 48 for $3.00 flat rate; all other locations please contact me to discuss shipping. Advertiser mlaw7 Date 06/22/2020 Price Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert 1977-78 280Z OEM AM/FM radio faceplate w/shielding plate Clearing out the last of my S30 parts. OEM 1977-78 280Z AM/FM stereo radio face plate with matching OEM shielding plate. Some light scuffing but in overall excellent vintage condition as seen in the photos. No cracks! To the best of my knowledge this is designed for 1977-78 280Z series AM/FM radios with the vertical antenna switch. Will consider reasonable offers. Please contact me with any questions. Will be happy to meet locally or have a local member examine these in person prior to purchase. Willing to ship well packaged to the lower 48 for $5.00 flat rate; all other locations please contact me to discuss shipping. Advertiser mlaw7 Date 06/22/2020 Price Category Parts for Sale  

Had the alternator checked this morning and the test showed bad diodes. Not sure if it's the original unit but it does look pretty old. The battery, which is about 1 1/2 years old, didn't test very well either. Evidently it experienced a fair amount of power drain due to the alternator going bad. Interestingly, after five minutes on the road on the way to getting this checked, both the brake warning light and charging light on the voltmeter went out. However, I did notice the voltmeter fluctuating as I drove. I replaced the alternator and she's now back to normal. I think I'll give the battery a day or so with the new alternator to see if there's any improvement. If not, I'll get a new battery. As to the brake warning light, evidently the variance in voltage somehow affected the circuit. The brakes are fine. Anyway, problem solved. Thank you for your input!! What a great group of people on this forum!!

As I was driving home this evening, my brake warning light suddenly came on and at the same time the red (charging?) light on my voltmeter came on. The voltmeter reading also had dropped to around 12v, which is considerably lower than its normal level. The car still ran fine, no brake or other mechanical issues. The lights may have been a little dimmer but I can't say for sure. If it makes any difference, this happened as I was slowing to a stop. When I got home, I checked the fuses - all look good. Didn't see any loose or bad connections/wires under the hood. The fusible links also seem to be ok. I also tried restarting the car - no problem but the symptoms still persist. I've had no indications at all of any electrical issues prior to this. Any thoughts on what could be happening? Alternator? Voltage regulator? Battery? This is a 1978 280Z. Thanks!!

Thanks Andrew! Perhaps, though, I should have been clearer. I wasn't asking about repairing or replating door panels or other plastic interior parts. The vacuum plating on my door panels and handle trim covers is miraculously still almost 100% intact. What I am asking about is any ideas or techniques on how to keep them that way - ideally for another 30 years or so! I'm scared to even polish them since they seem so fragile. Especially the strips on the door panels. PWD 's idea of a high-quality urethane clear coat is intriguiging. Thoughts?

Any ideas on how to preserve and protect the chrome vacuum plating on plastic parts and door panels? It seems to be so fragile after 30-40 years.

What kind of injectors did you use? After trying aftermarket and rebuilt injectors, I've found new OEM Nissan injectors by far to be the best as far as performance and reliability. They're kind of hard to find and a bit pricey but I have them in both of my '78 coupes and couldn't be happier. Both cars run like new.

Season's Greetings to everyone! I know this issue has already been discussed ad naseum in other threads. However, I don't think I've ever seen this particular angle, so I'm posting it in the hopes that it might help those of us who are still experiencing fumes in their cabin. Prior to the restoration of my burgundy '78 coupe, I was experiencing bad exhaust fumes in the cabin. I replaced all the seals, weatherstripping, gaskets, grommets, etc. I could find (well, almost all). Redid some body seams as well. That almost 100% fixed the problem. However, I still noticed an occasional slight whiff of fumes with the window down when I would pull to a stop. Nothing major but still pretty annoying. I could not figure out where it could be coming from - until this afternoon. Today while I was doing some engine compartment detailing, I noticed a small hole in the firewall near the hood latch mechanism. After looking around the compartment, I realized that I was missing one of the plastic holders for that part of the wire harness. This was one of the white ones that are used throughout the engine compartment and attach to the body by means of a rivet. When installed they effectively plug the hole. I quickly grabbed one of my spares and installed it. Then took a drive to see if that made any difference and YES! Fumes 100% gone!! Moral of the story: check your engine compartment and look for any small round holes near wires, especially on your firewall. Replace any missing holders and you've just eliminated another point of entry for those nasty fumes in your cabin.

Sarah, FWIW, my personal preference is for the engine compartment paint to match the rest of the car. While a black engine compartment certainly looks much better than one with original paint that doesn't match the rest of the car, I believe 100% matching paint is the way to go on a classic Z car.

Correct. So is this a plumbing term too?

Just in case anyone has ever wondered where Datsun came up with the term "escutcheon" for the plastic inner door handle trim covers. I thought it was kind of pretentious sounding until I discovered it actually is a real word. Here's the definition from Webster's Dictionary. 1: a defined area on which armorial bearings are displayed and which usually consists of a shield 2: a protective or ornamental plate or flange (as around a keyhole) 3: the part of a ship's stern on which the name is displayed More trivia for all of us Z-heads!

Just had NTB check the alignment this afternoon on my '78. The front looks great, only required a minor adjustment to the passenger side toe. However, the rear wheels are a bit out of spec. I know there's no factory adjustment for the rear, and from what I understand the only adjustment possible is a camber kit. Following are the specs on my rear wheels. Can any of you tire/suspension gurus interpret and/or comment on them? Rear left: Camber: -0.3 Specified Range: -0.1 to 1.5 Toe: 0.44 Specified Range: -0.22 to 0.22 Rear right: Camber: -0.4 Specified Range: -0.1 to 1.5 Toe: 0.24 Specified Range: -0.22 to 0.22 Cross camber: 0.1 Total toe: 0.68 Specified Range: -0.44 to 0.44 Thrust angle: 0.10 Thanks!

Can't say for sure but judging by the large number of fins, this looks like its for a 280ZX. If so, it will not fit your car. Another thing to be careful about: the rear louvres from a 2+2 model 260Z or 280Z won't fit either as the size of the hatch window is different from the coupe.