mlaw7

This is getting interesting. I'm considering adding a '70-'72 240Z to my budding collection. Assuming a stock 240Z with either 14" OEM steel wheels or 14" slotted mags, I'm thinking the 195/R70-14 would be preferable to the OEM 175/78-14. Correct?

Here's one for you tire gurus! What does the "R" mean, for example in size 195/70R-14? Is it some kind of performance rating? Is there one that's better suited for Z cars than others? Thanks again!

Definitely an awesome looking Z!! You have done an absolutely beautiful job - very inspiring indeed. We should assemble a group from the Houston area to cruise down to Kemah one weekend and show 'em some Z power!! The Boardwalk would be a fantastic backdrop for some group pictures.

Thanks everyone for the great info! I checked last night and the Yokohamas I have now are in fact 195/70-14. As both of my '78's are 100% stock, I think I'll stick with those. Another question: Would you recommend 32 psi for this size and application?

I hope this doesn't cover ground already covered elsewhere. I did search through the forums but didn't see this exact question, so here goes. I'm looking at a new set of tires for one of my '78 coupes. Both have the stock 14" steel wheels. I've been pretty happy with the set of Yokohama Avid tires I have on the other '78, which I believe are 185/70R-14. I know very little about tire design, etc. and am wondering what the difference would be if I used 195/70R-14's on this one. Is one "better" than the other for a stock 280Z as far as performance, handling, etc? These would be used for normal everyday driving as well as the occasional high-speed zips around curves and winding country roads. Thoughts?

Andrew, I had a hard time finding those for my '78 as well. I finally found a used set that cleaned up real nicely but for the life of me can't recall where I found them. I do know it was either Roger at Z Barn, Oliver at Z Specialties, Z Car Source of Arizona or Rod's Datsun. Last year when EVERYONE was back-ordered on the weatherstrip kit for my burgundy '78 coupe, Rod's was the only place that had them and it worked great. He was very helpful and a great guy to deal with. Here's his contact info: Toll Free: 888-257-7773 Rod@RodsDatsun.com Good luck!! Michael

She's gorgeous!! And man, I can totally relate! What a great feeling ... Enjoy!

Oliver at Z Specialties should have them. Here is the product description from their website: The expansion valves used in these cars are no longer available. We have finally found a replacement expansion valve and evaporator assymbly that will fit in these cars from 74-78. You MUST change this over as a complete assymbly, this valve WILL NOT fit your original evaporator. These are a special order only item. Please allow an extra week for shipping. http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1390 Yes, it's very hot here in Houston!!

Very nice!! A beautiful finishing touch!

The chances are pretty slim you'll find these at a junkyard. Your best bet for this would be to call Roger at Z Barn (1-800-247-2793), Oliver at Z Specialties (1-800-518-5480) or the folks at Z Car Source (1-800-373-2532). IMO the stock configuration would be the way to go. Good luck!

Yes, the one that's not blacked out is the full dash cover and it looks like it does have the cutout for the dash emblem. $119 seems high to me but perhaps that's the going price these days. I believe I paid around $80 for mine last year.

I was thinking the problem was the two doors for the heater outlets not closing when using the A/C or vent. I saw that there is a cable/linkage between the selector lever and the driver's side heater outlet door mechanism that opens and closes the doors when moving to/from defrost mode. I've since been reliably informed after an inspection of my system that these doors are in fact supposed to stay open unless the defroster is selected. Apparently the inner door or selector flap inside the heater box is not closing and/or sealing properly, thus the reduced air volume through the dash vents. Thanks!

If having the dash emblem visible is important to you, be sure to ask whether the 280Z full dash cover currently sold by MSA has a cutout for it. A couple of years ago I asked them and was told that it did not have the cutout. :tapemouth May be different now. Most 1/2 caps that I've seen don't have the cutout for the emblem. I believe there are a couple of different manufacturers. I bought mine on ebay (not from the MSA outlet) last year but don't recall who the seller was. Here are a few photos.

After replacing the vacuum heater control valve and hoses on my '78, the heater doors will not close when I switch to vent or A/C. They worked fine before doing this. The heater works well as does the A/C. No leaks from either the valve or hoses. Before replacing the A/C bezel, I lubricated the fan speed, temperature and selector mechanisms with lithium grease. The only thing I have noticed was that after replacing the A/C bezel, the selector switch doesn't seem to fit into some of the notches as securely as before. Any ideas as to what could be the problem?

Absolutely beautiful - can't wait to see her when she's finished!!

You're most welcome! I specifically did not want carpet on the shock towers but don't see why they wouldn't offer it for a few more $$. I wanted the original style, which I believe is loop rather than cut pile. So whichever one is the OEM style is what I've got.

Here are a few photos of the cut & sewn carpet kit I got from C&H for my '78 coupe. Overall I've been very happy with it.

Thanks man! So is it odd that using a cell phone charger, or for that matter, any other device such as an electric air pump would create an overload like this? Is this indicative of a problem or weakness in my electrical system? Or is the S30's electrical system simply not designed to handle loads like this? I'm guessing there were no devices like that back in the 70's. Or were there?

Very cool! Like those mags! She's going to be a beauty!

Problem solved! I found a good 10 amp (not 10v as incorrectly stated in my first post) fuse and replaced the blown lighter fuse with it. As I thought, the lighter element works fine again. And so does the clock! It's back to keeping near perfect time. Seeing that my car is practically 100% stock, including the harnesses and other electronic components, I have to conclude that the lighter is on the same circuit as the clock. Does this sound correct? Or is there something strange somewhere in my wiring? It does makes sense, since they both operate independently of the ignition switch circuit. But if that is indeed the case, does anyone know why doesn't it say so on the fuse box cover or in the owner's manual? I looked thru the FSM as well and didn't see anything. However, I attribute that more to my rudimentary knowledge of reading electrical diagrams. Now I'm wondering how many times what seems to be a dead clock is really a similar electrical issue. Thoughts? Comments?

Since restoring my '78, all of the electronics have worked fine - until today. And I think I know why. I've been using my cell phone charger in the lighter with no issues for several weeks now. The lighter element worked great too. And I never noticed any change in the voltmeter reading (both the voltmeter and fuel gauge work fine). This morning, however, I noticed that I wasn't getting any power to the charger. Just to verify, I then tried the lighter element and it too didn't work. I also noticed that the clock, which had been keeping near perfect time, stopped right around the same time this happened. When I got home from work, I checked the lighter fuse and sure enough, it's blown. I don't have a spare 10v fuse and it was too late to go to the auto parts store but I'm pretty sure the lighter will be fine with a new fuse. All the other gauges and lights still work fine. What about the clock though? The cell phone charger evidently not only overloaded the lighter fuse but also blew the fuse or relay for the clock. Here's where I'm stuck. Can someone please tell me what the circuit protection is for the clock? I haven't seen any fuse or relay associated with it. Second, why or how would overloading the lighter affect the clock? Guess I won't be using my cell phone charger in the Z anymore Thanks!

Andrew, Give me until this weekend and I should be able to get you some pics of everything but the radiator. My radiator was serviced when the engine was rebuilt, so nada there. I'm not even sure if the 280Z had any radiator stickers like the 240Z - can anyone verify that please? Did you find a paint code sticker with the code already stenciled in? Last time I checked with MSA, I think they only had a couple of the paint codes available. Otherwise you had to fill it in yourself. They said more were in the works but I haven't checked back since.

Something else you may want to look at is the vertical positioning of the hatch lock striker. If it's too high, the hatch won't sit flush with the body. The striker is right behind the license plate light housing and is secured by two bolts. Simply remove the LP light housing to access the bolts. Then loosen them a little and see if you can slide your striker down, say 1/16" or so. If so, tighten the bolts and you should see some improvement. Then make further adjustments as necessary.

Thanks! The seat covers are original. The white stuff that was on the passenger seat when I first got the car was what was left of a white/orange/black plastic "For Sale" sign that had fallen onto the seat and melted on it in the Texas sun. I was able to get most of the big pieces off pretty easily but it took me hours with a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol to get the rest of it off. Even at that, you could still see white here and there in the basketweave which I just could not remove. I tried to live with it but it really bugged me. Especially since the seat was otherwise perfect. So while the seats were out I just bought a can of Duplicolor flat black vinyl paint and sprayed the center basketweave section. No more white! On the smooth vinyl sections I used Meguilar's vinyl & rubber cleaner/protectant. As far as the dash, I removed it and pulled all the gauges, vents, lighter, etc. Cleaned it and tightened up a few screws & bolts. I didn't remove the glove compartment or its lid. Wasn't necessary in this case. Cleaned the lenses with plexiglass cleaner and polish, cleaned and polished the eyeball vents, and replaced all of the bulbs with the brighter (5v I believe) bulb set from MSA. After prepping the dash and (very important!) re-installing the tach and speedometer, I installed the full-face dash cover using 3M weatherstrip adhesive and a bunch of bungee cords as tight as I could get them. I left the bungee cords on for three full days. The dash vinyl and cover were protected from the bungee cords by ample layers of t-shirts and towels. When removing the t-shirts, towels and then bungee cords, I felt like Dr. Frankenstein removing the bandages from his creature! Then replaced the rest of the gauges, lighter, new emblem, etc. and the dash was ready to go back in the car. All the best with yours!

In my experience with the '78 OEM Datsun AM/FM stereo radio, the antenna makes a huge difference in reception (or lack thereof). With the stereo button pushed in, does the stereo light ever come on when you scroll the tuner through the FM band?