anthony280z2+2

I'm able to turn it on but only while holding the gas. And it smokes a lot . The noise is kinda hard to explain, its similar to the one your explaining. I know what your saying. I heard it while adjusting the valves. I wish I could post a video but I'm posting from my phone

Zed head. My lash pad doesn't come off no more. I got it rebuild but after I put the new head I turn it on and it seems like the same valve it making a sound. It sounds like pressure releasing. That's why I think that the guy didn't do a good job.before and taking it back I want to make sure it wasn't my fault

I did a compression test and all came out from 148 to 150. I would do a leak down test but I don't have the equipment. I'm also gonna remove the oil pump switch the position of the distributor. Making sure my timing is correct

I'm thinking that they didn't replace the guide. That is one of our conserns blue

All new. Tomorrow I'm checking the compression. Was 0.08 intake and 0.10 exhaust good.thats on cold. And 0.10 intake and 0.12 exhaust on hot. We also replaced the timing, sprokets, tensioner. But I'm almost 100% we did it right.

All the valves are new. That's the reason I'm confused. Can the head be bad and the person that rebuilt it didn't check it right or something.

I used 0.08 for intake and 0.10 for exhaust on the valve adjustment

Just finished reinstalling the rebuild head.now everything is back in and ready to start. We did a valve adjustment, checked the firing order.i guess everything to start it up. I gave it some gas and it started up but, my first valve(exhaust) was making a sound like air escaping .not ticking.going back to the reason I got my head rebuild. The same valve was dropping the lash. I put it back on about three times but it kept on coming off.i guess what I'm trying to say is that did we mess up installing it or the head was rebuild bad or the head was in too bad of condition to be rebuild. .sorry if the description is too brief ask any question if It sound to confusing

Just a quick question. I need head bolt torque specs and exhaust and intake manifold torque.

Hey members, I currently rebuilding my n47 head and replacing the timing chain on my car. Before reinstalling I was thinking about installing a mild cam. I don't much about upgrading a cam, so I have a lot of questions. Do I need to upgrade springs or rockers. And is installing the same as a stock cam or Should I not bother?

Just finished putting the keeper and lash pad back in. The car sounded back to normal, ran it around the block and it felt and sounded good. Hopefully it's stays in there. Took us about 30 min and improvising but got it done. Thanks everyone for the help .saved me money

You're probably right, it's one of the keepers and the lash pad.is the lash pad were the lever sits on. Sorry don't know to Much about the names.im gonna ask around my area of mechanics to see if anyone has ever done what zed mentioned.

My engine was running strong for the amount of miles it had. Just had my fuel pump Replaced by mikeZ in Whittier, and he said my car was still real strong.

I was trying to figure out how to fix this broken valve keeper without taking off the head and I came across a complete l28 engine that was recently rebuild. The guy wanted 350 for the engine but the engine from a 76 280z, and my car is a 78, would that matter if I swap it. The price seems great, but I'll ask questions about the engine before anything

Opened the valve cover and found that the first valve spring(next to timing chain) was missing the valve keepers that go inside the retainer were missing. The pieces were next to the spring. How bad is this.

I recently took my 78 280z for normal weekend drive from Los Angeles to Anaheim then back.it was about 40 miles back and forth. The car had no problems but once I exit the freeway I heard a knocking sound but wasn't sure we're it was coming from.when I got home I checked and the sound was coming from the engine,the sounds come from the last cylinder or by the timing chain.i always check my oil before any long drive, the car was fine before that and even with the knock I haven't notice any power loss or noticeable at least. How bad can this be? Haven't had time to open the valve cover but will as soon as I have a full day to work on it.Any ideas?

yesterday they were 165$ ill order them on Friday if he still has them. ill post comment as soon as i put them on

i look up the standard ignition injectors on ebay and i think i will purchase them. great tip. have you purchased them before are they good for the price

I haven't been driving the car since, but i turn it on and let it run to see if it keeps on doing it.its not the same from running it on the highway but im not going to risk it.i will replace the rubber hoses, who knows how old are they?.the times it leaked it seemed to be coming from the injector itself

about a week ago while worming the car i noticed a smell of gas coming from under the hood.my car usually smell like exhaust but this smell was pure gas. i turn off the car and noticed the middle injector was crying gas. the leak seems to come from under the connection. actually like mid way of the injector that's visible. after i found that i stop driving it that day. the next day i was going to show the problem to a friend but it seemed to disapear we ran it for about two miles with no leak. Then yesturday it came back, but today it ran without any leak AGAIN.is this injector bad or can it be fixed.has anyone had a similar problem.by the way in youtube a person had the exact same problem on a older mercedes and on his discription added that the leak stop by itself also

This is a little off topic. But has anyone tryed the push start and control from motorsport auto for the 70-78 Z's. It a thought

yeah zed, the "rod' has a lot play i don't know if it suppose to be like that.not sure what you mean by bend or twist it looks very fragile, but if it helped you than ill figure it out.sorry about my description but it sounds like you had the same problem

a while back my car started to lag to turn on when i turned the key. the switch will have no response unless i play with it by moving the key up or down while its on ON. eventually it stop working, so i decided to take it apart but when i checked the switch by turning it with a screwdriver it turn on perfect.i put it back on but it wouldnt work again. can anyone tell me whats wrong or what im doing wrong

After I find out how to post pics I'll post the picture of the car and the it's height

The pictures help slot thanx. I think I'm going with eibach.My car is a 280z 2+2 do you think I need the isolator bushing in the back