Everything posted by Six_Shooter
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Rotisserie Concerns
Speaking of rotisserie.... :: How's the project coming? Back to full steam again after the set back earlier this year?
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Nice looking Irish Z on Jalopnik
He's a member of HybridZ. Very nicely done car.
- Last known 1970?
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Core support holes
No, the two holes that are in the core support itself. I'll be working on my car later today I'll snap some pictures. My car has never had A/C. There are no holes in the firewall or inner fender structure that would indicate that it was every equipped, there are also only the standard HVAC controls in the car.
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Core support holes
In looking through the pictures of a recent purchase by another member, I came accross a picture that is obviously stating that these holes are not supposed to be there, but I have the same or similar holes in my core support (I will need to look again to see how similar they are). What would have been mounted here, or any reason for these holes?
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Just bought HLS30-00797
Congrats! Is the blue interior a stock option? I only recall ever seeing Black and Butter Scotch as factory installed interior colours.
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Ocean State Job Lot 240Z's
The ones I'm talking are just like these, same base, same colours etc, same cars. I'd pay $50 for a Franklin Mint version, but these are swap meet items, not worth $50, that's what they charge though. I like the 1:24 scale diecast that my grandparents bought me in the spring, it's not an "Accuracy" reproduction, the wheels are a bit big, there's an SR20 DET under the hood, but the wheels are forward in the arches.
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Ocean State Job Lot 240Z's
Yeah I see those quite often at Car shows and swap meets, unfortunatly people seem to be asking about $50 or more each. There is also a BRE (or similar) and Rally versions from the same company.
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Whats this doing in my pocket?
I'm pretty sure he means the clutch disc, that was sitting on he bench, with a fully re-assembled car. I've had a few minor ones, like forgetting to connect the ground to the TPS sensor in my truck when I swapped in the new engine, turbo and EFI, and then trying to figure out why it wouldn't start. Went through all the inputs and the TPS always said WOT, unplugged the TPS and it fired right up. Wiring a relay for incorrect trigger polarity, so it would never engage. Good thing that was the fuel pump relay and not the cooling fan relay. That was another EFI conversion. There have been a few times at work, get a car all back together to look on the floor ofthe car or the bench to notice there's a plate or panel that was supposed to go back in, so that usually adds a few minutes.
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eBay audacity
HAHA, it seems that bad doesn't it? :stupid:
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Junkyard & "Out to Pasture" Zs
I couldn't make it past the 4th line in that ad. Looks like a Turbo Tom turbo kit.
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Z cave is done....
Looks nice. The GF and I are looking at selling our current abode and moving into something maybe a little bigger, but more importantly a little out of town with a large® garage, preferably detached so I'll have space to work on my cars. This slightly larger than single non-insulated garage is just not going to cut it.
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eBay audacity
Am I the only one that thinks this might have been bought by someone legit, and used in a way that would not be to defraud? Whether you like it or not cars are being re-vinned regularly, and some for even legitimate reasons. Personally, if I had a car that was legitmatly mine and would cost me hundreds to thousands of dollars, months of time to register with the original VIN, due to loosing the original documents, or could buy a complete set of new tags that would take me about a day to install, for a couple hundred dollars, I think I'd go the latter route. I've been around people that have been down that road before, getting the run-around about the ownership documents, being investigated as criminal (when that is not the case), etc, no thanks, I'll take the easier route in this case. But I guess I have some concious, I'd try and find a VIN of the same year and options (Not that there is any option or chassis specific information in the HS/HLS30 VIN tags). Are we living in a world where everybody thinks like a thief now?
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eBay audacity
Again, if the VIN number were higher, say 152391, would there be such a concern? What about this scenario: A person buys a low VIN S30 (complete car), that is beyond repair, that same person buys a higher VIN S30, swaps the vins. The donor car came from eBay. What's the difference? a few thousand dollars in shipping charges.
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eBay audacity
Question; Would there be as much up roar if the vin was 152391? All the same items, dash number, door plaque, firewall cut, ownership, hell what about throwing in the underhood plaque as well? Same worry? or not so much, because it's not an "early" S30?
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Engine ID help; z or zx?
There are also a couple numbers that you can look at. On the driver side, above the pan rail behind the engine mount there should be a 3 digit number, made of one letter and two numbers. I.E. F54 On the head near the front of the engine on the passenger side, just above the head/block mating surface you should be able to find a number made up of the same single letter and two number scheme. I.E. N42 From what you describe it is a ZX engine. The Z (S30) was never available with power steering. The 3 bolt thermostat seems to be a ZX deal only as well, Not sure when it was first used, but I have been able to determine that '81 to '83 all use the 3 bolt T-stat housing.
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Nice 1970 on ebay
Well, I'm impressed. It looks very clean.
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High Ammeter Reading
First thing is get rid of the ammeter, or at least don't use what it is showing you as any type of "proper" reading. Grab a DMM, and test what the voltages are, battery, key on engine off, engine running, at the battery and the fuse panel, etc. The ammeter can show a charge even if it's not really charging. In my '73 it would show on the charge side, even though the voltage was barely 13V, a true charge requires minimum 13.6V on a 12V system.
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eBay audacity
That's the part that gets him off the hook if the person that purchases it, uses it for anything other than collectors items. There is nothing illegal about selling the ownerships and vin plates to a car without the car, there is no crime being committed there. How it is used could be a crime, or could be just used as collectors items. There's a guy that is at swap meets allover over my province, sells ownerships and vin numbers to car dating as far back as 1908 I think he said his oldest was. He sells ownerships and vins for many makes. I'll say it again. There is nothing illegal about selling what is in this auction. What somebody might use this for could be illegal, but it's not guaranteed.
- eBay audacity
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New clock Mod.
I set mine to 200 degrees..... Oh wait that's now where my temp gauge is. ::
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My 1970 240Z!
Sweet, can't wait to see more pictures and hear (read?) about more details.
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Recommended hardware to mount spook?
I mounted mine using 14" stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers, to the lower valence. It wasn't until after I re-installed the valence with the spook attached that I noticed that I probably should have mounted the spook to the lower rad support, since the shape of the spook near this area was pretty much a match. oh well. I put it on more for looks than aerodynamics. I don't know the manufacturer of mine. I bought mine used from a guy that got it on a parts car, it needed some repair work as well.
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Opinion needed (56k sorry pic heavy)
That would have been the perfect car for me to start with. I would have offered less, just because it's not running, and took a chance that the diagnosis of "locked up" was an exageration, like it normally is. A lot of times the starter fails and doesn't turn the engine, and not too many people (unless they are very into cars) know about putting a rachet on the crank and turning the engine that way. For my plans, since I plan on some body modifications, that would be a perfact starting point, I would have prefered an early Z like this one, especially one with the S1 type hatch/vents, but found a '73 I couldn't pass up. Running, body in similar condition to the one pictured in the thread, complete, even had some extra parts for the same price. Mine was auto though, and came with an L28 (didn't realize that until after I had received it from the shipping company) The biggest factor to the decision of buying this one will be how solid it is underneath. It's far easier to repair body than it is chassis.
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Clunk elimination has begun, with pics
I'll be interested in the result as well. My '73 has that rear end clunk. I'm debating on swapping the solid axle in earlier than planned, just to eliminate it.