Six_Shooter

I use Mobil1 10W30 Synthetic currently. I've also used it on other engines and have found it to work. I don't usually use it on engines that have as much milage as mine does, I usually go to Mobil1 shortly after a rebuild, this time is simply because I added a turbo to the previously installed engine.

Would need to see a better, closer picture. There looks to be some writing on it that may take all or most of the guess work out of it.

I was looking at the first picture of the firewall, thinking to myself, where's the throttle linkage through the firewall, why does that look like the battery on the right? Then it hit me, from the discussion about this car in the other thread, this car is located in Austrailia, right hand drive :: Just looking at what can be seen in the pictures it's too far gone for me to even consider purchasing, let alone trying to restore it. As stated above, what you can see is only a very little bit of what you will find. Now, you have to keep in mind that I'm located in Canada, and there were hundreds of thousands of S30s sold in North America so it's a little easier to just look at another one to purchase. The condition of the car looks to be a little worse than what Mull (on hybridz) started with, and his car is basically a new fabricated chassis, under a somewhat original shell with some repair patches. The killer for me, is that roof rust. Repairing a roof is never fun, I did it once on my 1985 GMC Jimmy, where I had to replace the corner above the passenger side windsheild, all the experianced body guys said to me, when I asked them how they would do it was: "Good luck with that, let us know how you did it when you're done". looks like there will be some salvageable parts, like glass, gauges, pedals, but I would say that chassis is just too far gone.

I'm using Synchromesh in my tranny (5-speed 1981 280ZX tranny). I haven't done anything with my diff, I probably should though.

Yeah, because I don't see what all the hoopla is about. I don't see this "value" in these wheels, "vintage" or not.

I'm torn, my first reaction was "ewww", but the more I look at them, they've grown on me. The price is not what I would pay for them, not even close, I don't even think I'd pay a tenth of that price, but I'm sure someone somewhere will.

I did a similar swap on my '73. It started life as an automatic. I bought it, along with a tranny that was supposed to be a 5-speed, from a '77 Z, turned out to be a 4-speed, I installed it anyway, because the auto was just too boring. I recently installed a 5-speed from an '81 ZX, which is even better. The 5-speed installed just like the 4-speed did. I have a thead on HybridZ about my swap, and shows the tunnel modification. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134300 You will notice that the metal ring has 4 holes that are not in an equal pattern, these will line up with dimples in the floor to locate it properly. You can then use the inside of the metral ring to mark where the forward section of the floor needs to be cutout. When I did my swap, I also wanted to swap my electronic dizzy in, but since the vacuum diaphram canister was damaged, the timing was locked, and the car really didn't like that. I used the original dual points dizzy until I recently installed the turbo and EFI. I'm not sure exactly how the 280 dizzy connected into the car in factory fashion, I'm using a GM ignition module on mine, mostly due to the ECM also being something pirated from a GM. You may need to swap to a later tach, that is voltage triggered and not current triggered. I actually changed my tach long ago, and just had to make a simple jumper from the resistor to the coil, and then used one of the two wires running back to where the tach is to trigger the later tach. If the case itself is cracked, you will be pulling the tranny out again. It would be MUCH easier to remove the tail section and re-install it with the tranny on the bench as opposed to in the car.

Good to hear.

Yeah that's why I tried to put as much info of what I did use in my post. I figured that way people would be able to compare and either apply the info or find that it doesn't apply to them. How's the project coming, Ron? I hope you're feeling better after what you told me you went through earlier this year. Any word on when "my" rotissierie will be freed up?

I just put a 5 speed from an '81 ZX in my '73 two Saturdays ago. My car was originally an automatic. I had installed a 4-speed earlier this year, that required cutting the original shifter hole to clear the shifter. I used the metal trim ring that holds the rubber boot to the floor as a guide. This cuts off both forward threaded bolt holes. This seemed to be the best way to get the shifter to work, seeing as I couldn't even install the shifter with that piece in place. The fact that the boot covered that area also indicated to me that it would not be in a manual car. The 4-speed I installed was from a '77 280Z. I read on here about this "needed" shifter modification when installing a 5-speed. My solution was to use the 4 speed shifter and it worked perfectly. I would need to measure but it doesn't look to me like the shifter should come through the middle of the shifter hole, to use the original shifter boot. It seems to be closer to the front of the hole than the middle. I used the 4 speed shifter in my swap and it fit with the original boot perfectly.

I used the auto flex plate bolts on my flywheel when I did the conversion a few months ago. The accepted minimum thread engagement is equal to the diameter of the bolt. so a 12mm diameter bolt should have 12mm of thread length engagement into whetever it is being threaded into. Usually it is acceptable that "fine thread" bolts can have a little less enagagement. Anyway, my point here is that the thread engagment when I put them through my flywheel was greater than the diameter of the bolt, so I felt comfortable with this. I drove the car VERY hard like this for a little over a month, I'm now in the middle of a turbo and EFI swap. I'm also swapping a 5 speed in from an '81 ZX that I just removed from the donor yesterday. I had wanted a 5 speed all along, but couldn't find one at a reasonable price, so I installed the 4 speed that I bought with the car (it was supposed to be a 5-speed).

Yep a broken dizzy will not allow the timing to change with RPM. Personal experiance on a Z car: I have a 1974 240Z, with an L28 that was installed before I bought the car. I also bought an electronic dizzy with it, but it turned out that the vacuum pot was broken, so I thought I would try and run it anyway, I know of a few friends cars that run "locked out timing", so I thought it might work. It didn't I could either get it to idle fine, but not drive without bucking, or to drive ok, but not idle well. Also the AFM to TB boot as suggested are a known problem on these cars, well it would be on any 29 year old car. Fresh fuel in the tank?

I agree. I sometimes find it harder to write in "txt spk" than to use the language I know and use, English. I don't mind "txt spk" so much when it's on my phone, but when it comes to forums, I would expect full spelled out words, only exceptions would be internet acronym, such as "LOL", "WTF", "QFT", etc. Spelling mistakes are forgivable, "txt spk" I would agree, just shows laziness, and does make it hard to understand in a lot of cases. Some "txt spk" words are hard to figure out. Hell, I rarely use "txt spk" when I actually send a text message, I'd rather make sure I'm understood. I'll only "get used to it" when the proffessional world, I.E. The corporate business world uses it in thier legal documents, which I never see happeneing. About the pictures, cool hair, but that's about all have to say about that?

Yeah I have installed more than a few oil pressure fuel cut off systems in my days. I'm just trying to decide whether I want to tap the block or find (make) an adaptor to retain the original thread, since I have read that it is different, I'll be verifying that today, most likely. I'm not opposed to modifying my car, I just have this real strong opposition to metal shavings in my engine. (yes, I know the grease trick, still worries me.) I'll likely just end up tapping it differently since Iusually just do things that way anyway. The alternator works great, needs a smaller pulley than I had, but solid 14.7V at just above idle and on up. I also had my electric fuel pump disconnected, and drove it all yesterday and last night, about 150 miles or so, no appreciable differnce in the way it ran with the pump to without.

On my '73 the Electric fuel pump ONLY runs with the engine running, it does NOT, ever come on BEFORE that. It also would not make sense to have two cut offs, both effected while starting, as in one being a direct connection to the start signal, and one being RPM dependant (voltage signal from the N terminal on the Alt/reg). Only one OR the other would be needed to work the way you describe. Also the fuel pump would sit there and run, for as long as the key is turned on, but not started. I'll have to disect the add on harness, but I'm sure you'll find that the start signal energizes the circuit to "prime" while starting and then the signal from the alt keeps the circuit powered up, and will shut the circuit down, in the event that the engine stalls/shuts off. About the fuel shutting off in a hard corner, due to low oil pressure on an oil pressure based fuel pump safety system, sounds more likely a problem with oil pan design, or low oil level. The ONLY time I have ever had my oil pressure drop, is when it was low, usually by a couple litres (I had a car that had a semi-quick oil leak for a while). I found this thread (and a few others), because I'm upgrading my alternator and noticed the jumper harness between the regulator and the harness, and followed it back, to discover what looked very much like an add on harness, and wanted to find out more about it, to see how to make it work with the new alternator. Looks like I'll be switching over to an oil pressure based fuel pump control system.

It doesn't look overly complicated. Serach on HybridZ.org. It seems that the best rack to swap in place of the original S30 rack is a '99ish Subaru Imprezza rack, as the dimensions are very close to the original, with some other inner and out tie rods. There is a very well documented thread on HybridZ that goes into detail of what those inners and outers are. There are also comparison shots with measurments showing the difference between the racks.There is some cutting and welding but not overly involved. I'm considering it myself.

Yeah, that's a good attitude to have. Instead of being a dink about it, why not post a link or two? This is exactly how flame wars start, one guy that thinks he's the end all be all of information and that everyone should bow to him, nope, I'm not one of those guys that will bow. I'm quite well read when it comes to automotive, even had some older European books, that seems that would have this information, and have never heard of the term PS in reference to power produced by an engine, KW, yes, for many, MANY years have read that term and can loosly understand it in a quick reference scenario. So I suggest you step back a bit and humble yourself, because being a dink, like you have been through the entire thread doesn't gain you any friends.

I've been around cars my entire life, and have read a lot, both main stream and little known, and have never until last night heard of this "industry abbreviation" of "PS". Link(s) to more information to back up what you are saying?

So what is PS?

I disagree, though my rear disc conversion experiance is not on an S30, but on daily or almost daily drivers. My current DD, a 1998 Malibu, was originally equipped with drum rear brakes, and converted to rear disc, partly because I could, mostly because I wanted to, and afterwards wondered why more cars didn't come with rear disc. Braking was much more controlled, stopping distance seemed to become shorter becase of that and brake fade was less, I had more consistant brakes which I have much more confidance in. I then later upgraded my front brakes from 11" to 12" and experianced more of the same increase in braking ability. For an extra $200, I think I would put the rear disc on, as long as the e-brake can still be used. I've seen too many (again not specific to the S30) rear disc upgrades where the e-brake is disabled.

It's a 240ZG, well a 240 with a G-nose anyway. Once you enlarge the picture you can clearly see 240 on the fender tag.

I think 17s look just perfect on an S30: More info: http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/tur0801a01_1972_nissan_datsun_240z/index.html http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/custom_1972_datsun_240z_import_car/index.html

I think 17s look just perfect on an S30: More info: http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/tur0801a01_1972_nissan_datsun_240z/index.html http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/custom_1972_datsun_240z_import_car/index.html

Geezer, you have a PM.

Sounds good, when do you think you'll be done with it?