Six_Shooter

Let me know what you want for it. I'm close too. Brantford Ontario. I was trying to start a Rotisserie sharing/exchange program on HybridZ, and while there was someone that said it was a good idea, nothing has become of it.

There's quite a bit of information on this on HybridZ.org. Some information with measurements and such. I'm also sure I've found much of that information on this site using the search.

Thanks for the pics. I have that car (the one in the first post) as my background. I NEVER use somebody else's vehicle as a background on my computer, so that should say something right there. It was also because of this car, actually the front passenger 3/4 view on the super street online article that had me decide on an S30. I had sat down and decided to take a week to look for a project car, looking at a number of options, All were pre-1988, since these car are e-test exempt around here. Anyway I was looking at RX-7s, 510s, 240 SX, GM H-bodies (Vega, Sunbird, Monza, Starfire, etc), among a few others. It was within the first night and seeing that car that clinched it. Absolutly georgous build. I would like to see it in person one day, and meet the owner.

Here is the ad I had mentioned: http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2400&cat=4

Here's a couple links: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/cooper.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm I haven't verified if the diagram in teh second link will work or not, but that information is there. It's from www.zhome.com

I plan on doing something similar with mine.

I know I've seen an ad for a crack dash for like $15. I believe it was on this site, if not it was in the old classifieds on HybridZ, which are now gine unfortunatly. I'm leaning towards the classifieds on here though.

The shorter wheelbase of the 2 seater would corner a little better, but I'm not sure it would be enough to notice. Someone that has driven both would be able to tell you better. The parts are the same as far as swappping trannies. From what I've found the only difference in the driveline between a 2 seater and a 2+2 is the length of the driveshaft. If you were looking at drag racing, the longer heel base of the 2+2 would make it easier to install an NHRA legal cage, without looking out of place. Main hoop rules make this difficult. The longer wheelbase would also be more stable. With the 2+2 you'd be able to bring more than one friend along to outings.

Looks good. When my car gets here (I'll be making the shipping arrangments tomorrow ), I'll snap some pics of that interior. It's rough, but gives an idea of differences. Mine is a '73 and have noticed that the tranny tunnel sides are different, mine has black sides.

Even if I did a restoration, I would drive it, I can't stand seeing or hearing about a car that is perfect but is never driven, there's no point in owning it then. Cars were built to be driven. My plans are to do a wild build up, this '73 I'm getting is in VERY good shape so I had ideas of restoring it, or somewhere between a refresh and restore to sell it. But I think I'm just going to go through with my plan. Starting with a body in this good shape will save a whole lot of time repairing a bad shell. I'm not sure how much I'm going to do with this engine. I may screw around with it for a year or so, but plans are to swap in a larger and built for much more power engine.

I have found some information on zhome, and it seems there were a lot of changes over the years, and the poor '73, seems to be the least desired for power and possible problems due to emmisions standards for that year. Looks like I won't be restoring my '73 afterall, I'll just hybridize it, since I'm not sure it would pull in enough return on investment to justify it. If there is more information that on zhome let me know, I'm more just interested in what the specs are, just to know, not really because I plan to build or rebuild the L24 in my '73, especially being the lowest output of them all.

I've done a quick search and haven't found what I'm looking for. What I am looking for is a spec sheet on the L24 (preferebly 1973 if there were any changes), that will show all stock specs, compression ratio, firing order, jorunal sizes, bore, stroke, valve sizes, etc, basically a complete spec sheet of the entire engine. Wouldn't hurt if there were the same things for the other L series engines either. So does such a thing exist for these engines? Thanks

Well, it looks like it's different than what I remember seeing, but I guess that will do the same. I recall seeing just a white paper document (MS Word perhaps), that just listed year and VIN. I also thought it went past 1973.

Yep, I'll look some more, but didn't see it under that.

Yes, on that site, but I can't find the list of known still in existance VINs, but I may just be crazy too.

Ok, so I tried looking for a while last night (over an hour anyway), on zhome, to find the list of known S30 to still exist, to see if mine was listed, if not I would have it added. Anyway I couldn't find and I'm sure it was zhome that I had seen it on before. Am I crazy, or can I have a link?

So with the information I have read here, I could for all intents and purposes, restore a 240Z, but use a different colour combination (interior/exterior correct match for the year), and it could still be considered all original, or "perfect restoration" (as long as it was done well), and the vin would never reveal that? Does the door tag have body and/or interior colour information?

While there may be some truth to that, in his current abilities, anyone can learn. And best to learn on a vehicle or engine that is not primary transportation. Also I know a few people who have the skills, just not the place to or tools to work on thier own vehicles due to various reasons.

I doubt you'll notice any difference in braking ability, with such a small difference in piston diameter. If you get the book "Auto Math" it goes into detail on how to calculate bias and changes in braking ability, based on mesurements. Another book I have deals solely with suspension chassis and braking, but don't recall the name currently.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the mechanics abilities. Just because someone "doesn't work on carbs" doesn't mean that they don't know how. A friend of mine, who also happens to be a mechanic, stays away from working on carbs for customers, even though all of his race vehciles have had or are equipped with carbs. It comes down to a time spent vs profit choice. For most mechanics they can make more money by doing other jobs than working on something liek a carb, and so they choose not to do it. Back to the topic at hand. As long as the other engine runs, I'd grab it and drop it in. $300 will be less than what it would take to rebuild or even just re-ring yours. Then you can put it on a stand and if you wanted to, rebuild it yourself, even build it for more performance if you wanted.

WAAAY off topic here, but is brown a popular colour for '73s? It seems that most people that I see mention having a '73 turn out to be brown. :: The '73 I'm getting is brown as well.

It would depend on my intentions with the car. For my purpose that is exactly what I'm doing, since it will be off the road for a few years while I build it, and all the sheet metal will be exposed and quite likely worked over. I've done one colour change in the past and swore I would never do it again, at least not for a daily driver, I would just repaint it whatever colour it was. Body working and finishing the door jambs, the engine bay, end other exposed areas can be a long process. I ended up spraying the engine bay black in my truck, as it was much easier than trying to paint it body colour with the engine in. I also knew I was going to have the engine out a few months later, and knew that I wouldn't be able to or have the time to spray it with the body colour, so black spray bomb got the nod, as it's easy to touch up as well. The door jambs are all painted to match the body colour though.

Well, I looked at the car in person on Saturday afternoon. I flew out to Calgary to meet up with my Uncle and then Saturday morning began the trek down to Richland, made good time of about 10 hours on the road, coming back was a whole different story though. Saturday after we reached Richland, it started to hail, so we decided that we should start heading back as soon as we could, to avoid any real nasty weather. We made it to Spokane, where we had thought we would have, but took use about 4 hours due to the bad weather, the rolled over sanding truck that we saw just as we left Richland should have been an indication of what was to come. :: Then another 12 and a half hours on the road on Sunday to get back to Calgary, due to bad road condistions and slow drivers that we were following. Anyway, the car is in excellant condition, much better than I need actually, the seller, Mike, was very accurate in his description, and is very straight up guy. Also helping out with any parts I may need or want off his parts car, that he has. I hope to have it home within the next two to 3 weeks, just depends on how quickly the shipping company will get to the car for pick-up and how many stops they need to make between WA and Ontario. I can't wait to start working on it and then driving it this summer. here are a few pictures the seller had posted, I won't be able to post any new pictures until I am home again, which will be early Wednesday morning, then I have to work that day as well. :: The car now has a blue fender from Mike's parts car

Probably just the angle of the picture. I don't think that picture was taken straight on, and with the curved body lines can make things look wierd like that.

I hope the correct information was also used, there's lots of information in this thread not based on electrical theory. Enigma is the only one in this thread with correct information regarding adding a second battery into a vehicle's electrical system. There is no such thing as a "Deep cycle alternator". The term "Deep cycle" only pertains to batteries and thier ability to be heavily discharged and then recharged with no to little damage to the battery itself. The alternator will only provide enough current flow to match what is being asked of it. So you can connect the smallest ATV/motorcycle battery to the largest inductrial alternator you can find, and the voltage will remain the same at the preset level (usually 14.4 on a good cold alternator charge rate). On this above mentioned alternator that was probably used with a deep cycle battery or bank of batteries, there was probably a need to sense the charge level of the secondary batteries, so tha the alternator could adjust the output to compensate. I would recommend a solenoid type isolator, as the diode based ones as mentioedn in the link provided by Enigma will drop the overall charge voltage by .7V (It mentions a range of .4 to .6 in the article, though it IS .7). This means that your batteries will never fully be charged. .7V might not sound like a lot but to the electical system that only uses 12 to 14V to start with, that's quite a bit. There are smart solenoid basd isolators now that will monitor both the incoming voltage and the secondary battery voltage and will only turn on when they are close to matching. You could set-up a system that would allow you to manual overide the monitoring side to give yourself a boost, if you found that the starting battery went dead for some reason, but the secondary battery was still charged.