Cracker Jack

THE only thing I would like to see is that car SLIDING around a race track, would be interesting to see. Other than that :sick:

Hey, I think if you are happy with it thats what you should do. I plan on doing a 2-tone on my '79 280zx. I plan on a grey on top and black on the bottom. Don't know what color yet on a pin stripe for the separator on the side of the car. Some may not like my choice either but I like it and that's what matters Have fun with your Z bro!

Thanks man, I will grab some of that stuff while I am there too. :pirate:

Vise Grips saved the day! Well, just now, found my smallest pair of vise grips, removed the wire connector from the injector, but the only space to squeeze into was between the intake and fuel rail. Could turn about a 16th of a turn (MAYBE that much, maybe less). Attached is a picture of what is left of the screw, down on the threads there looks to be locktite though, can't imagine that was needed unless PO had to retighten the screw and wanted to use it. Thanks for all your help guys! I WILL still be picking that set up this week, I am sure I will need something like that in the near future while removing these 30yr old screws elseware on the car.

Well, for the heck of it I tried the super glue trick, waste of time that was :stupid: So My cordless drill is worthless, battery is kaput, so tomorrow I am off to the Sears or Northern Tool to pickup a new drill AND that screw bit set. I will let ya'll know how the set works for me. I noticed the Craftsman set is a 3pc for $20 and the other set is only 2pc, I will see what Northern Tool has and let you all know what happens. Thanks again for all this input! :beard:

I agree. I plan on picking up that tool in the morning. I couldn't count the number of times a tool like that would have come in handy.

Thanks so much for all the advice, on second though, I think I will be going to the Sears tomorrow, I have a few tools that need exchanged and my wife has to pick up her glasses, I will more than likely just grab the craftsman version of that tool and skip the superglue fiasco I will post again tomorrow with some results

I WILL BE BUYING THIS SET VERY SOON! Looks amazing, would be an ideal addition to the tool kit, even if this super glue thing works. I WILL be ordering this. Thanks for turning me on to it!

Will, these screws seem to have only 1 fitment. I looked closely at the screws I got out and I didn't see where an 8mm socket would work, they are just round. This is a '79 280zx, unsure if this would make a difference. Thanks again! BTW, I had to go to the store this evening, have some fresh super glue, going to try that in the morning 1st. Will let ya'll know if it does the trick. - Jack

I was thinking of just cutting the top off to get the rail and injectors out. Then I would have room to use some vise grips to remove the rest of the screw. I do have another Z car here that is quickly becoming a donor car for misc parts like this. Then someday I guess I will just buy all new parts for the other one,

I actually did load that down with PB Blaster over the last week, the screwdriver feels perfect in the hole, and push down as hard as I can. It will slightly move to the right but then back to left and then nothing. I know the old addage my dad told me "righty tighty, lefty loosy" but this bad boy just won't get loosy!

Thanks so much for the advice, it is a Phillips screw, best I can tell it is original, but as tight as it is I will have to try the plier thing 1st. If thats a no go, I was then thinking of the glue/jd weld a piece of metal to the head and that would give me come leverage to unthread it. I will try and attach a photo of the screw to this post. One curiosity I have is whether super glue will hold an old screwdriver in there? I might give it a whirl, can't hurt I guess (except when I bust my knuckles!). hls30.com, will the 8mm socket "jam" onto the round head of the machine screw? PS, the screw I am talking about is centered in the photo.

I have been carefully working this last injector screw. Tighten a fraction, then loosen a fraction, used penatrating oil, etc etc. Been on this for a week. Finally most of the grip within the screw head is gone, so I can't even grip with the phillips screwdriver. This is in a tight spot. Any suggestions on removing this? I have a spare car with an intact fuel rail, injectors, and screws, etc, so if I have to break this injector I will, but I want to use that as a last resort!! Thanks to any and all that can help.

Those shims would be the 1st place I would look. At your local parts store they have some stuff to put on the back of the pads (between the shims and back of brake pads). I can't remember what it is called exactly but you can get a little packet of it for maybe 99 cents. While in there see if those pads look glazed over too, but I doubt that since you said stopping wasn't hindered at all. For .99 its worth a shot. I had a similar issue on my Piece of Crap Chrysler Sebring and that is what solved my issue. Hope this helps!

thanks beandip, I just now am noticing that. I am a newbie here (and to forums in general) I will have to pay more attention on the dates :stupid: Happy motoring! and great to meet you by the way

haha, high performance chip! These things act like they are on steroids anyways, I hate to see if you could "chip" one! I was just curious if that box under the driver side of the dash might be a primitive computer possibly causing some of my electricals from not working. PS. I am still tracking wires, I have yet to find a disconnection or burnt wire, all fuses intact as well. So dang perplexing. Snow isn't helping either.

Ok, you may or may not appreciate my responses but here they are: 1. Garage yes you need one, so do I, joys of living on a fixed income!! 2. That butcher knife stuck between the manifold and head is a CLASSIC! (True "surgery" on the ole z car) 3. If you ever need help, I will try my best to assist, I know I am up the road a little ways, but maybe I can give you moral support at least Last but not least, thank you VERY much for the details and the pictures, they will be a huge help when I do the head on my '81 280zx although I will be doing mine after I yank the engine.

What is that light that cycles through and then either goes green with "OK" or all red? That light on my '79 280zx is ALL RED. I am having some issues with a few gauges not working, is there a "brain" in this car? Maybe I could swap the one from my '81 zx if there is one since it will cycle through and say "ok" in green?? Please help. Thanks! - Jack:knockedou

One addition, look into using a capacitor or 2, at least 1 farad each. That will help to save your alternator from working so much over time! :bandit:

Looks like fun! Just kidding... I actually will be pulling that tomorrow or the next day. Removing the fuel rail tomorrow. Fun Fun, this WILL be a daily driver in a few weeks I hope!!

Thanks ktm, I just now did the 2nd suggestion, the speedo cable now works! As for the fuel, I think you are right. I hate to start poaching parts from my other car, but I might have to so I can get at least 1 of them complete and working correctly. I had the doors open most of today, but alas, the rain has started, so I will have to continue another day.

Well, this morning I will be pulling ALL connectors I can find and clean them all with electrical connection cleaner, I will post later on if I have solved the problem. Thanks.

I just brought home a 79 280zx today, nothing seems to be working in the inside electrics. I did notice the headlights work, blinkers and taillights though. Not working: Power windows Power mirrors Volt meter analog clock **(Which probably doesn't work anyways, ** Fuel gauge reads right at half, even though I emptied the tank, then refilled. Tach seems work, unsure if correct reading though Speedo jumps around like crazy when driving. Dome light not working. I check ALL fuses and replace any that looked suspect, but still nothing. Any ideas of breakers, etc that I might check next? :knockedou It drove great getting to the house, just a lil stuffy with 15yrs of barn storage smell inside and unable to roll a window down