ZwolleY

Millis Please pm me. I have a very nice set.

Polish the buckles and dye the straps. I dyed mine with black shoe dye and they came out pretty good.

Light one. And I would like to see "ClassicZcars.com" in a more prominant position.

Born and raised in Portland, OR and now live in Stevenson, WA in the heart of the beautiful Columbia River National Scenic Area. I have traveled alot and continue to do so, but there is no place like home.

The thermostat is a Stant and I put it in because it was what I had. It has the small opening. I will replace it with an OEM if I continue to have problems.

I just put a 3 row MSA radiator in my '72 along with a 180 deg thermostat. I got the radiator in 3 days and it was very well packaged. The old one was leaking very badly and could not be repaired. The overheating problem I was haveing seems to be fixed but when the car first gets warmed up it seems to overheat, needle runs up close to the top but then it settles down to just about a needle's width above center and stays that way. Didn't do this before. Could this be a symptom of a bad sensor or guage?

There is a 1976 280Z for sale near Stevenson, WA which is about 40 miles east of Portland, OR. I did not take too much time looking at it but it looks in fair condition and it runs. The guy wants $1,500.00 for it. If anybody is interested, I can get you more info and contact info. PM me.

Thanks Carl. The old thermostat does have the centered opening. I put the Stant in for now, maybe later will replace with a Nissan if I need to.

This has been bugging me for awhile. Frequently when I go to start the car, everything is dead-nothing. I have traced a solution but it does not work every time. The wire from the harness (comes from the ignition switch I believe) that connects to the magnetic switch terminal on the starter can be wiggled and I can start the car. I pared the wire back a bit and put a new connector on it and I now get a better connection but the problem persists. Occasionally I get one clunk out of the starter before eveything dies. Any thoughts on this? Rebuild starter, new starter, ignition switch???

I am installing a new thermostat. The unit sold to me looks unusual, to my limited experience, and does not look the same as the one I took out: the opening is not centered. There is a narrow side of the flange and a wider side directly opposite. On the wider side is a small hole with a loose brass pin through it. Should this thermostat be inserted in the hole any particular way or just dropped in? It is a Stant.

I priced a recore to 3 row at a reputable shop in Portland and it came to the same price as a new heavy duty 4 row from MSA. To go to a 4 row, and if it needed a larger tank, a 4 row recore would be $100 more. Not much of a choice here. But what about some of the $200 radiators from other places. I know that you get what you pay for! I am not sure if my current radiator is original or not. Is there any way to tell?

I am planning to buy a new radiator for my '72. Have looked at lots of radiator sites and made lots of phone calls. Comming up with a wide range of prices from $260 for a 4 row to $175 for a 3 row. Any advice as to a reputable dealer? Any "best" radiator for street use? Do not need an aluminum unit.

Anybody else have a thought on this? When I go to start the car, on the first crank there is a thunk and everything goes dead. Jiggling the fitting eventually works. I have tried a new connection on the end of the wire. Sometimes the car starts just fine.

My car, as maybe all 72' z's do, has two wires comming from the wiring harness that go to the starter solenoid. One bolts onto the same post as the power from the battery and has a fusable link. The other attaches to a spade fitting on the solenoid, it is not fused. Should this second wire have a fusable link? I read a couple of past posts on this subject but they did not entirely clear things up for me. All power is off when I pull this wire from the spade. Thanks

That would not be a very efficient way to feed a dog: it would blow the food clear through undigested and you would assphyxiate the dog in the process.

This would be a dream come true if I was in the market:love:

There are several on eBay-- 1970-1973--That might fit your needs.

Hey US240Z- Did the carpet you got from TooIntense have all of the cutouts and notches for the cargo straps on the rear section and the cutouts for the hold down hooks on the front sections? Were they serged? I still have some of the original carpet in my car, the two small sections under the seats and the right passenger section. When I compared the old ones with the set from MSA, it seemed that the old was indeed heavier with a deeper loop. I got my seat cover kit from MSA and was very happy with it.

I checked out ACC as well. They have a good carpet for about $254.00. Also checked out ClassicDatsun which, if I read him correct, can supply like stock carpets. He was surprised that I wanted loop because his impression was that cut pile was original carpet. He just had another customer ask for loop yesterday. I will be returning my MSA carpets.

Carpet sets might be another item for group purchase.

I recently purchased a sectional set for my '72. It arrived with a serious flaw on the rear section. BUT---There are no serged slots in the rear section for the luggage tie down straps nor were there serged slots for the hold down clips at the rear of the two front sections. When I mentioned the contradiction to MSA's claim that these were like original, I was told that people do not use the tie down straps because they are no longer available so the slots are not put in. The guy said that I would have to cut the slots, with the risk of the loop unravelling or send them out to have an upholster put them in. This sounds kind of bogus to me. Any thoughts? Are carpet sets available with the serged slots somewhere? They did agree to replace the rear section and pay for my return shipping costs. I have tentatively agreed to deal with the serging issue myself.

Zhome-IZCC has a map of the U.S. showing the distribution of it's U.S. members.

I drive in the Columbia River Gorge where the east wind is really raging now. If it is not the east wind, it is a strong west wind. The car really gets pushed around by the wind. I read somewhere that the Z does not handle well with a cross wind and I can confirm that. Is it design or just the light weight of the car? '72 Z

Who would have thought that a left leaning liberal like myself could still be smiling. ROFL