ZwolleY

Do you have both luggage tie downs in black? Good shape?

Hello--I have been having cold start problems. This is a relatively new problem. 1972 with stock SU's. When it did start, it was running very rough like on 4 or 5 cyls. When it was starting it would turn over fine but it would sort of sputter in starting. Sort of a kachung, kachung, kachung, sputter, die, several times until it started and then it would barely turn over. When it did catch it would run very rough. Got it to a shop and they found that the front choke was stuck and the front three plugs were badly fouled. Unstuck the choke and replaced plugs with 6 new NGK's. Tweeked the carbs and got on the road and the car ran sweet. The morning after it started all over again, however when it finally did get started, it ran smoothly. Checked the plugs and they all were a uniform dark copper color. Any ideal what is causing this?

The one on Ebay went for $41.00 plus s&h. I paid $27.30 from a dealer. Pays to shop around.

Well the gas tank ordeal is over at last. Due to cluminess, I had to buy a new sending unit and also got an o ring and retaining ring as well from Motor Sport. Tried two times to get a seal while the tank was mounted with no success so dropped the tank. Even then it took two tries to get a seal. Tested the seal with gas in the tank-my idea of using water was not a good one! I have been fooling around with this tank for so long I still do not believe it is sealed and I still have to check for leaks around the seal. Man, I would really hate to get rear ended - great balls of fire.

$27.30 for a new one from Nissan now. The one on eBay is starting at $22.00.

I have quickly come to that conclusion. There is a new grab handle on eBay. I ordered a new one from a local Nissan dealer which will probably cost less than the eBay one, after adding shipping.

Hello all. I am looking for the two "chrome" dohickies that cover the mounting screws for the grip on the right door on a '72. They seem to be in scarce supply. I tried All Z East in Portland and while they have many Z's, there were none of these. I think they break easily. Thanks

Looks like it got whipped with an ugly stick. There is no accounting for some people's taste.

Check out this nice '72 on eBay. Excellent car for someone to start with.

Beautiful car. I am partial to original looking yellow Z's myself. Nice job. Is it original thoughout? Is it an original paint number? Mine is yellow 112 but needs repainting. General question-is it possible to get the original paint any more.

Another precaution, and I will not say that it happened to me. When you hook the wires to the posts on the sending unit, do not force them, the posts may pop out of the sending unit. I don't think they can be put back in and the little wire inside is broken anyway. If this happens and you get a new sending unit, I would be very careful. Might be wise to pare some of the rubber off to expose the clip so you can see what you are doing. Then put a dab of silicone sealer on the connection. The connectors inside the rubber housing may be brittle with age also. I will follow my own advice with my new sending unit. (Oops, did I switch from third person to first person?). I did finally get a good seal but not with an O ring, it still leaked. I put some of that sealer from the tube on then cut a gasket from some good gasket material. Installed it and it held, but then......I did get past the swearing stage however. There is a possibility that when the tank is filled up to the sender there will still be a leak which means that gas must be drained again, the sender reinstalled, and refilled to retest. This is hazardous to say the least. Is there another way to test? Would draining the tank and refilling with water work? This assumes that all of the water can be drained. Is this a bad idea? I am getting very intimate with this gas tank! Is there a forum for DUMB stories here

No need to worry about insulting my intelligence. I recognize my lack of knowledge on car repair matters that I am not afraid to ask questions. The two times I have had the sending unit out I have not seen an O ring. My repair manual does not show one in the diagram nor does it talk about one. Is this a special O ring for this tank or will any of the correct diameter and thickness work?

Got my refinished gas tank mounted a while ago and just recently filled it up, but to find gas leaking. The leak is at the seal for the unit gauge. I pulled the unit and remounted using a gas resistant sealent after cleaning it very well. Actually I did this about four times with no success. I then tried with no sealent and it continued to leak. About 6 years ago I pulled the tank and remounted it with no problem (leaks). The only thing different is that part of the refinishing job was a primer coat. The primer, at least now, is comming off because of the gas and being scraped. Could this prevent a good seal? The primer was intact the first time is tried this time but it got worse every time I tried to mount the gage. I did not do any sanding or scraping as I did not want to make it worse. i did not try a gasket because I was not sure that the lock would fit. Is there a solution to this problem. Please do not tell me I have to remove the gas tank!! Well, I will if necessary.

I would like a good hood emblem for a '72. For the time being, until I get my hood off to have dents pounded out, I will put an old Studabaker round hood emblem on over the two holes. It is about the same size and who would know the difference? Would that be sacrilegious?

One of the beautiful things about the web is the wealth of information to be found. This is one of the best sites because of the willingness of the pros to help those of us who only putter around with our cars. However, and I do appreciate all of the work that went into the development of the new site, I really think the old one is better; and change comes easy to me. Regardless, it will still be a valuable source of information as I plug along on my Z. The babe with the Z pasties could, and probably would, be an affront to the female members of this site, although I hesitate to speak for them. This sort of thing is, if at all, more appropriate in a mechanic's garage, in the John. There a millions of sites where this sort of stuff can be found without seeing it here.

When I lay the pointer on somebody elses "profile" I get the message " Click here to see the profile of---" but when I click it, I get my own profile.

Thanks all. I went to my friendly yellow/blue store and they recommended DupliColor Engine enamel/ceramic. Put two coats on. I trimmed and glued the original fabric on the straps and it looks pretty good.

Got my gas tank back today. The tech said that it was really cruddy inside with lots of debris and rust. It came back with red primer. Before refinnishing it was very dirty so I could not tell what the original paint was like. It sort of looked like semi gloss. What is the best paint for it? I imagine it has to be something durable. Also the straps look good except they also need repainting. The fabric is o.k. Is the fabric available if I want to replace it?

I got the tank off o.k. (will be different putting it back on!) and will get it refinnished. Is there anything else under there I should look at connected to the tank? Replace hoses, etc? My gas gage does not work. I pulled the float thingy and checked the wires and contacts; everything looked o.k. Could there be something here that causes the gage to not work? I also pulled the fill plug on the differential to check fluid level. I have tried this before but it is very difficult with the tank on. Fluid came out of the hole very much like water. Does this seem like the correct fluid weight? The fluid was sort of cloudy like there might be water or air in it.

I called Mac's Radiator in Portland. They will do the job for around $200.00. But, they cannot replace the fiber filter, if it is there. How necessary is this filter? Is it necessary to install another gas filter if the fiber filter is not replaced?

Anyplace within about 100 miles of Portland, OR where I can get a new or reconditioned gas tank for a 1972?

Actually it would not start after I blew the lines out. It only started after I supplied gas from a can. There is a clanking sound comming from the gas tank and the guage does not work. Is there a connection there?

Maybe getting the problem narrowed down. Tried to start the car with no success. Gas not getting to the filter. Blew out the fuel line to the tank, it bubbled nicely. Checked for a filter or pump near the tank-none. Put a gas line into a container of gas and the car started right up. Hooked up the lines and tried again-started right up. Any ideas? This could be something that acts intermittantly since in the past the car just acts like it has run out of gas. I am eager to solve this problem, almost ready to change my user name to "12manyz"

Dave==those are great ideas. I really do not know if there is another pump or filter near the gas tank. And I will try the compressed air. Thanks

I replaced the fuel filter, changed the fuel pump and checked fuel level in the tank. Fuel is not getting to the filter with either pump. On the pump subject. One of the pumps is much newer. It has plenty of resistance when I move the lever and has a strong sucking sound. The one I put on has much less resistance and moves in two stages, easy first and then more difficult. It also does not have the strong sucking sound the other has. What does this indicate-the difference in action? Does the lack of fuel to the filter indicate that the screen in the tank is plugged? Again, the car sat for about 1 1/2 years.