ZwolleY

Saw a really gorgeous Orange Z on 181st near Halsey about 12:30 on the 7th. Belong to anyone here?

I like the format of the site. This option may be available but I could not find it. So---how about an option to get printer friendly versions of pages-without the sidebar, etc. I was unable to get a good print of the Cat Transportation Unit. That was extremely funny, and I am a cat lover.

I think it was my second post on this site when I asked for a good SU doc in the Portland area. You recommended him.

It was the chokes. The cable was very dry and chokes themselves were stuck. I took it to MB Anderson and he got it running purrrrrrfectly. Starts now with no problem.

That is sooooo funny I about fell off my chair. Could also be the annual meeting of Yugo drivers (I think that is what most of them are).

Is the ZTherapy video set up so that it shows step by step the process for rebuilding and tuning? In other words, can I have a video player sitting on my bench and a remote control in one hand and step my way through the rebuild and tune?

Looks like great stuff. However, if I want the wet look, I need only to park outside in the rain. We get plenty of it- usually 90 inches/yr. But parking in the rain is not really good for the finnish I know.

Do you have both luggage tie downs in black? Good shape?

Hello--I have been having cold start problems. This is a relatively new problem. 1972 with stock SU's. When it did start, it was running very rough like on 4 or 5 cyls. When it was starting it would turn over fine but it would sort of sputter in starting. Sort of a kachung, kachung, kachung, sputter, die, several times until it started and then it would barely turn over. When it did catch it would run very rough. Got it to a shop and they found that the front choke was stuck and the front three plugs were badly fouled. Unstuck the choke and replaced plugs with 6 new NGK's. Tweeked the carbs and got on the road and the car ran sweet. The morning after it started all over again, however when it finally did get started, it ran smoothly. Checked the plugs and they all were a uniform dark copper color. Any ideal what is causing this?

The one on Ebay went for $41.00 plus s&h. I paid $27.30 from a dealer. Pays to shop around.

Well the gas tank ordeal is over at last. Due to cluminess, I had to buy a new sending unit and also got an o ring and retaining ring as well from Motor Sport. Tried two times to get a seal while the tank was mounted with no success so dropped the tank. Even then it took two tries to get a seal. Tested the seal with gas in the tank-my idea of using water was not a good one! I have been fooling around with this tank for so long I still do not believe it is sealed and I still have to check for leaks around the seal. Man, I would really hate to get rear ended - great balls of fire.

$27.30 for a new one from Nissan now. The one on eBay is starting at $22.00.

I have quickly come to that conclusion. There is a new grab handle on eBay. I ordered a new one from a local Nissan dealer which will probably cost less than the eBay one, after adding shipping.

Hello all. I am looking for the two "chrome" dohickies that cover the mounting screws for the grip on the right door on a '72. They seem to be in scarce supply. I tried All Z East in Portland and while they have many Z's, there were none of these. I think they break easily. Thanks

Looks like it got whipped with an ugly stick. There is no accounting for some people's taste.

Check out this nice '72 on eBay. Excellent car for someone to start with.

Beautiful car. I am partial to original looking yellow Z's myself. Nice job. Is it original thoughout? Is it an original paint number? Mine is yellow 112 but needs repainting. General question-is it possible to get the original paint any more.

Another precaution, and I will not say that it happened to me. When you hook the wires to the posts on the sending unit, do not force them, the posts may pop out of the sending unit. I don't think they can be put back in and the little wire inside is broken anyway. If this happens and you get a new sending unit, I would be very careful. Might be wise to pare some of the rubber off to expose the clip so you can see what you are doing. Then put a dab of silicone sealer on the connection. The connectors inside the rubber housing may be brittle with age also. I will follow my own advice with my new sending unit. (Oops, did I switch from third person to first person?). I did finally get a good seal but not with an O ring, it still leaked. I put some of that sealer from the tube on then cut a gasket from some good gasket material. Installed it and it held, but then......I did get past the swearing stage however. There is a possibility that when the tank is filled up to the sender there will still be a leak which means that gas must be drained again, the sender reinstalled, and refilled to retest. This is hazardous to say the least. Is there another way to test? Would draining the tank and refilling with water work? This assumes that all of the water can be drained. Is this a bad idea? I am getting very intimate with this gas tank! Is there a forum for DUMB stories here

No need to worry about insulting my intelligence. I recognize my lack of knowledge on car repair matters that I am not afraid to ask questions. The two times I have had the sending unit out I have not seen an O ring. My repair manual does not show one in the diagram nor does it talk about one. Is this a special O ring for this tank or will any of the correct diameter and thickness work?

Got my refinished gas tank mounted a while ago and just recently filled it up, but to find gas leaking. The leak is at the seal for the unit gauge. I pulled the unit and remounted using a gas resistant sealent after cleaning it very well. Actually I did this about four times with no success. I then tried with no sealent and it continued to leak. About 6 years ago I pulled the tank and remounted it with no problem (leaks). The only thing different is that part of the refinishing job was a primer coat. The primer, at least now, is comming off because of the gas and being scraped. Could this prevent a good seal? The primer was intact the first time is tried this time but it got worse every time I tried to mount the gage. I did not do any sanding or scraping as I did not want to make it worse. i did not try a gasket because I was not sure that the lock would fit. Is there a solution to this problem. Please do not tell me I have to remove the gas tank!! Well, I will if necessary.

I would like a good hood emblem for a '72. For the time being, until I get my hood off to have dents pounded out, I will put an old Studabaker round hood emblem on over the two holes. It is about the same size and who would know the difference? Would that be sacrilegious?

Thanks all. I went to my friendly yellow/blue store and they recommended DupliColor Engine enamel/ceramic. Put two coats on. I trimmed and glued the original fabric on the straps and it looks pretty good.

Got my gas tank back today. The tech said that it was really cruddy inside with lots of debris and rust. It came back with red primer. Before refinnishing it was very dirty so I could not tell what the original paint was like. It sort of looked like semi gloss. What is the best paint for it? I imagine it has to be something durable. Also the straps look good except they also need repainting. The fabric is o.k. Is the fabric available if I want to replace it?

I got the tank off o.k. (will be different putting it back on!) and will get it refinnished. Is there anything else under there I should look at connected to the tank? Replace hoses, etc? My gas gage does not work. I pulled the float thingy and checked the wires and contacts; everything looked o.k. Could there be something here that causes the gage to not work? I also pulled the fill plug on the differential to check fluid level. I have tried this before but it is very difficult with the tank on. Fluid came out of the hole very much like water. Does this seem like the correct fluid weight? The fluid was sort of cloudy like there might be water or air in it.

I called Mac's Radiator in Portland. They will do the job for around $200.00. But, they cannot replace the fiber filter, if it is there. How necessary is this filter? Is it necessary to install another gas filter if the fiber filter is not replaced?