ZwolleY

:classic: 65. Got to keep the Z running for another 10. Got to keep me running for another 25. At 75 I figure I will be ready to exile myself to the Camry forever. But 75 is not too late to still have fun.

I've got about 8 ft. of webbing and a bunch of clips and the pliers left over from my seat restoration. Could be enough for one seat. Send me a P.M. if you want it. I will mail it to the first P.M. I will not be able to mail it before the last week of the month.

:sick:

Hey Ben. I visited Australia for about 9 months in 1965 and had a very good time traveling from Sydney to Melbourne back to Sydney then north to Cairns. Worked for three months west of Cairns on a road construction job near Mt. Surprise. Then to Darwin where I hitched a ride on a yacht westward. Well, back to the Z. You said that you hooked your clock up to a "boost guage". What is that? The clock runs off a 12 volt battery and will retry it on the car wiring tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

I think I have been through this before. I got the clock off of eBay from an outfit that sells other Z stuff. It has a 30 day warrantee. When I contacted them they said that it had been tested and observed for two weeks and that it ran fine. Let the buyer beware I guess. So how do I hook it up to an alternate power source? Can it be alligator clipped to a 6 volt battery, or 12 volt?

Got a new used clock which I presume is working well under normal conditions. Got it plugged in, set the time and waited a few minutes. The hands didn't move. Checked the fuse box and found a blown fuse-10 amp for dome light and instruments. Replaced it and the dome light still does not work (could be unrelated but it did work) but the instrument lights do. Clock did not work with the new fuse. Is there another fuse somewhere that I should check? I am certain I have the correct wires connected allthough I erred by not marking them. There are two wires comming from the harness that connect with the blue and black wires on the clock-one blue and one black, both are shielded with a black rubber protecter. I connected these. There was also another black wire of the same size with plug in connections near the clock which were unconnected and I reconnected these. My guess this is for something else. Worst case scenerio is that when the fuse blew, it blew the clock:sick:

Here is an easy one (hopefully). Finnally getting around to fixing several things that do not work. Several years ago, after working fine, my heater fan would not turn on with the switch. I presumed that it was as simple as the switch, however someone told me that it was probably the heater core. I do get heat but not from the blower. Any thoughts on this? If turns out to be the switch, does anyone have one available? Nothing on eBay.

If you want to know about rust on Z's, you have come to the right place. You will find that all of us have had to deal with rust on these cars to some degree. Some rather extensively. Just search "rust" and "POR-15" here and you will be overwhelmed with the information available. Good luck with your car.

What do you guys do when you have to deal with things like chrome door trim or rain gutters. Is there a tape available? Do you mask things off to paint? Or is it just a matter of a fine brush, steady hands and eyes of an eagle?

:tapemouth My car has been running so well that I was out of my confort zone. Now I am back into it. When I went to start it after a stop at a store, it was dead, nothing. Turned the key a couple of times then it started but the amp needle was at mid point and not moving and all of the presets on the radio were gone, just like the battery had been disconnected. Drove it home with a frozen amp needle and killed it in the garage (safe zone). Started right up and after a bit the needle moved when I turned the lights on and when I reved it. Recently cleaned the battery, generator about 2 years old, new points, plugs, condenser, coil, spark plug and coil wires. Several days ago I removed the clock and the wires are just hanging although this should not be a factor. Hah-the only thing not mentioned is the voltage regulator. Same one since I have owned the car, about 11 years. VR points stuck? I seem to remember that on a '76 610 wagon I had that this would happen but I can't remember the symptoms. Regulator or what? Thanks

St.stephen--I checked out the Tamiya model. The description of the model leads me to believe that I am not quite ready for it. Would you post some pictures of the of the model when you are finnished? Thanks to you all for the tips.

I got my first one off of ebay for about $16.00 (s&h included) and recently found one at a Walmart for about $11.00. It is a crap shoot at Walmart because they do not have a choice of what they receive and supplies may be short at this time of year. I just got lucky. Small independent model/hobby stores would be more likely to special order for you. Brit-could you tell me more about the Japanese models you mentioned. Where can I get one? What brand name? Thanks for your help. I was hoping to get a response from a pro. Doing this first one with mediocre results has given me lots of ideas on how to do my next with better results.

Question for you Revell model builders. Have you had fit problems? I have one nearly completed Z (practice) and another in the box. Fit problems include the y tube on the exhaust not long enough to reach the manifold, right seat cushion extends out from the floor pan which prevents the right door panel from sitting up against the edge of the pan and front suspension pieces not fitting well. Also when I cut the chrome plated pieces off the frame, some of the plating chips off and it seems that paint for retouching these parts is not available. I was very young and with a full head of hair when I last built a model car so I do not know what to expect with quality. Help from Revell seems unavailable. The way they routed the exhaust pipe is sort of peculiar! It may be cheating but I spray painted the body and the engine compartment which gave me better results than on the large areas I brush painted. I will spray more areas in the other one. I bought one of the Kyosho yellow Z's and really like it a lot. Merry Christmas and I hope you find all of your dream Z parts under the Christmas tree.

:classic: Well, I got my clock out and oiled it a bit as EScanlon suggested. Before I reinstall it I would like to know if it works. Is there a way to test it for a day or so to check it out without having to put it back in?

Yeah, I guess you could say that I was converted. I was surprised to see that what was, I believe, my second post on this site dug up. My original intent after I got the car running after sitting for 1 1/2 years was to sell it just to be rid of it. But after connecting with this site, I had a change of mind and really enjoy my car. Does that sound like a Born Again Z er testamonial or what? Just recently changed out my exhaust system for a 2 1/4 inch pipe with a Dynamax Super Turbo muffler and no resonator. Pretty loud but after I finnish having fun with it, I will quiet it down some with a resonator.

This exchange illustrates the real value of this site. Lots of good advice. Thanks.

I am in the same position as Denny. The next big step I am concidering is painting. However it will not be simple. I notice some rust stain comming through the faded and many times polished paint and there is rust in the valances and elsewhere. Does this tell me that the paint must be stripped in order to get all of the rust? It would seem that there are other spots of rust that may be unseen. I would hate to spend the $ only to have rust show up again.

Enrique Great idea. I would like to meet up with some local Z nuts. Stevenson is up the Columbia just about 3 miles east of the Bridge of the Gods. You say help--do you mean that there is room up there for 4 hands to get that clock out? I will be in Vancouver at HazelDell Muffler at 9:00 next Tuesday (10th). If you are able, stop by. Otherwise, I am quite busy until after the New Year. However, I will email you at the address in your Profile if/when any time turns up. Paul Hunt

I guess that there is no easy way. Unless my 65 year old arthritic fingers sprout two more joints I may just buy one of those stick-on clocks for a buck. Actually, I will give it a try. I will be renewing my blood brother-ship with my car. Thanks.

My clock looses about a week every day. What is the best way to get a clock out-I want to try the oil thing.

I will be replacing my stock exhaust system on a '72 L24 from the y-pipe back with 2 1/4 inch pipe omitting the resonator. I have looked at past posts regarding new exhaust systems and this sounds like a good way to go. My question has to do with what muffler to buy. I think a turbo muffler is what I want. My choices are a Walker super turbo or a standard turbo. My goal is a nice growl but not obnoxiously loud. Is there a significant difference between these two mufflers other than the Walker's stainless steel interior and warrentee?

Due to rust I need to replace my exhaust system. I do not need anything really much different from stock. Might only replace from the split back. Possibly a deeper sound but not noisy. Do I need to replace both the resonater and muffler? Is there a shop in the Portland, OR area that anyone recommends that could do a good job and give me some advice? Stock 1972 car.

Has anyone used a rust converter available from auto parts stores? Seems that it would work on small areas. Danger here is you might be hiding rust and do more damage than good, especially when it is painted over.

You are absolutely right on. My family cars are a Taurus and a Camry, boring. So I have to throw a switch to a different frame of mind when I get into my Z, and, yes I do have a smile on my face after I have taken it for a hard drive.

When I was looking for my one and only back in 1991, I came across a '72 with 4,500 miles on it that the owner wanted $14.000 for. It was a beautiful orange car with white interior, original tires, etc. I could not afford it but looked at it closely, keeping my drool under control of course, just to see what an original looked like. I continued my search and came up with a nice yellow car with 86,000 miles on with very lttle rust. Cost me $3,000. I can't say that I have put in $11,000 into my car but several thousand at least. And I still have a mediocre car that is still a project. What do they say about hindsight-- it is 20/20. I should have jumped on that $14,000 car. But then I would not have know the joys of puttering on a Z. So the point here is that your advice of buying the best car you can afford and have a car that you can immediately drive, is the good advice. But, would I have been comfortable driving that $14,000 car? Is there a resurgence in interest in early Z's? When I was shopping everyone told me that I needed to buy their car because the Z was destined to become a rare classic. What they did not mention was that would apply only to low mileage, rust free original cars with low numbers. My impression was that interest in the Z sort of languished for several years but, am I correct, that there is more interest in them now?