EdMo

Another link below on how to replace Valve seals: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/seals.html I'm not fixed up yet and frankly not sure when I'll be able to get to a fix, the gathered information from this post and a friend have been very useful. Thx.

Thanks for response and yes I am talking about the little button ...didn't know the proper name. It is the lash pad and two half moon looking pieces with a grooved retainer clip looking area on both...I think holds the valve in place or something to that affect. The cam (lobe) seemed to be ok and it is not the entire rocker arm that came off. I had gone out of town for a week and when I got back and started it, that's when I heard the ticking sound that was not there before. It progressively got worse when I was gonna take it in to get it checked out, but returned home because I live 30 miles from town. I will investigate further and replace the rocker arm assembly but also check to see if the valve is not bent ... keeping my fingers crossed. Again thanks for the reply.

I have a 1978 Datsun 280z w/L28 motor. First heard a ticking sound then it starting running bad like one cylinder. Checked the little stuff, all looked fine. Pulled the Valve cover and found that a valve keeper had come off the first piston (closest to radiator) on top of the 2nd spring. How can this be replaced and is it likely that a valve may be bent? It does still start but runs very rough still....no longer starting in fear to damage more (like the piston).

I have a 78 280z and since I have started restoring it (in the process), rebuilt engine and all .... my tachometer has not worked. Actually I do not remember if it was working when I had parked it 10 years ago. Before I look for a new tach ... where does it connect too in the engine side? So that I can check all connectors to make sure they are not corroded. I did pull it out from the front dash to make sure all connections were good. The needle itself did not move as freely as the speedometer. Is it supposed to? Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.:stupid:

Has anyone installed the Automatic door lock mechanizm from MotorSport? I purchased the easy install unit....and it might have been, if I would be able to find the room for the actuator,being able to place the door panel back in. There is a hole in the interior door that kinda has room to install the actuator, but the door panel will not fit back in place. If anyone has purchased this unit and had success with it ... please give me some pointers. The reason I went with automatic is because my key locks do not work and I figured oh well, if I'm gonna spend the money why not automatic.

I had a similar problem "posted a thread back on 1-13-08" you might want to check through it. It is still listed at the bottom of the Help Me first page list called Another EFI problem. My problem ended up being the Fuel Pressure Regulator, sounded like your problem, but I was able to restart my car after it would sit for a while. Good Luck.

It appears to be a drain hole of some sort, under the carpet. The hole is missing like a rubber plug (about a 2" hole). Does anyone know where to get a replacement plug? I've checked Blackdragon and Motorsport with no luck.

I'm having the same problem and have started taking apart my interior some, mainly because I was replacing panel light bulbs and soon new sterio. After removing the middle console there are 4 vaccum hoses that plug into a small 4 nipple module. One of my hoses was not connected and I'm hoping that will do the trick .... but at this moment don't know for sure. The vaccum hoses also go up behind the fan (under glove box), where the Heater control valve is. I would say check the vaccum hoses first. FYI -Taking the middle console, glove box and fan are pretty simple, after that it gets kinda tight. Good-luck and if I find anything else this weekend I'll post if you haven't already fixed.

O.K all .... it's resolved finally. I went ahead and first disconnected the cold start valve and ran for a while and in idle, it bogged down and shut off as its was doing before. So figured that was not the culprit...next went and replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and with that seemed to be the problem. It ran fine and I let idle for 10-15 minutes and never even tried to bog down. So far so good .... again thanks to all. I learned from this tremendously, now I can take the cold start valve and get my mula back....over 100 bucks...yahooo!

I appreciate any input I can get, even though some is over my head... and you are correct of me not knowing the system well enough to understand it all. I can say that I understand it much more now than I did a few days ago...because my car is going on near 30 years old and not ran much in the last 11, except for the 600 miles I've put thus far after rebuilt engine. I think that I will replace the Thermotime first and see what this does, then if needed try the cold start valve since both are the original parts. The connectors mating to them are also the originals and kinda look bad...I've tried to clean but they still show green build up and do not sit snug in the mating connectors, I've got these on order from Bonzai. I know what the problem has not been thus far, so that once it is resolved, maybe we can come to a consensus of what the problem really was. Hopefully someone else will also benefit from this bug later. Thanks.

Hot dang it...call me stupid, but what I have replaced is the water temp sensor, the water temp sending unit and have not replaced the Thermotime sensor or the Cold start valve. I wish I were closer to Tampa.

The sensors I was referring to, are located at the thermostat housing, which Mike mentioned were the Thermo Time Sensor and the Wather temp sending unit and the other that I had not replaced was the water temp sensor. At the Z Clinic here in Austin, these bullett connectors and sensor were there main concern and they explained as cold start sensor and FI temp sensors. Though he did mention they adjusted the AFM, but not sure what adjustments were made. But before and after this the problem is the same, so anything they did...did not help or make a difference. I have checked for fuel leaks all around, but do not see any.

Thinking of tackling the replacement of the heater core as well.... I so far have removed the middle console and fan, it looks pretty tight under there. Any quick tip of getting to it?

Definitely as questions of what has been replaced (the more the better) and inspect to make sure they have been or maybe ask if they have any records/receipts. Along with all that has been mentioned of course.

Yes, I have also checked the plugs as well, only a month old they did seem a little more carbonized as running rich. Now the engine itself has only about 600 miles and the rings should have already set, but these are the same plugs during the breakin. So I went ahead and replaced them with some plugs that I had previously used during the first start up. The problem remained the same. Do want to say quickly thanks for everyones input .... I've got alot to check, unfortunately most is on weekends because of work. I did speak with Mike Mcginnis from Bonzai Motorworks this afternoon, mainly because I was ordering the subharness connectors for the sensors. I have replaced the Thermo sensor, sending unit sensor but did not replace the cold start because I did not see it in catalogue when ordering other sensors. So I am also getting the cold start sensor as well, but probably will not get here till next week. Mike also had alot of information, some as other posts earlier, but he highly suggested I do this as well. He also recommended to change the Fuel Pressure Regulator everytime you change the fuel pump. Its the original regulator so I'm sure it would be a good idea to replace as well. I've got to much $$ invested to quabble over a few more bucks.