dcruz

Are you talking about the hazard swithc or the light itself. I was having issues with the light not turnig on. It should have a seat belt light and a hazard light that lights up when you turn the car light on, and not when you turn the hazards on. If you follow the seat belt light you should be able to find the hazard light. Good luck

Well guys finally I have figured out what was my issue, posting so if someone else is reading and having same problems they can use this as help. I went and checked and cleaned every connection that I could inside the car, nothing really changed until I disconneted the rheostat ( the illumination adjuster for the gauges) from the back and reconnected it again, that solved my issue after hours of trying to get the light for the hazard switch to turn on. Hope this helps some one. Thanks

I have grounded the engined campartment, the alternator, and checked every where I can and where ever I saw a ground I would either changed it out with new cable or cleaned the connections, I also replaced the fuse block in the engine, that itself solved many issues like head lights not turning on. I have to check the main harness that runs inside and do the same that I did with the engine campartment. Thanks.

Yes, my indicator is the same as yours, but I have noticed that other lights like the center light or map light the light wouldn't light up until I grounded the side that was suppoused to be grounded, once I grounded the cable the light worked perfect with no issues just wonduring if it was the same, wich seems to be the same but I didn't know if the indicator was suppoused to turn on when the hazard switch was turn on? Thanks for your help

So when you turn your headlights the indicator light is on and not when the hazards are turned on. If this is the case, I can get the light to turn on when I ground the ground cable comming from the light bulb but when I do this it turns my light gauges off. Just trying to figure it out. Thanks for the reply.

Guys, I have finished painting my 1978 280z, i'm in the process of putting everything back together. I have fixed several lights that didn't turn on before like the center light, cigarete lighter light and gauges lights. some fixes were simple enough to just change the light bulbs and others I had to clean the connectors. My question is should the hazard light (the light inside the car where the hazard switch is) be on when you turn your head lights on, or should the light only light up when you turn the hazard lights on? Every thing seems be working fine, my turn signals, hazard lights and my headlights, I just want to get this clear before I put everything back together. The bulb was burnt so I replaced it but when I turn the hazard lights the bulb (the one inside where the hazard switch is) doesn't turn on, it barely turns on when I turn my headlights on but you can hardly tell that the bulb is on. Thanks guys

Guys, i'm almost finish painting my 1978 280z, but I still have to fix the floor pans on both driver and passenger side. I have read several forums about welding and mig welders but get very confuse and discouraged. I have done several things to this car to give up on it. I don't know nothing about welding or steel. I have read that I can use 18 gauge steel to make my floor pans, they don't have to look pretty, I just want to be able to drive the car. I read on this site that someone else also had bad floor pans and Dave said that he purchased a flux welder from harbor freight for $100 and used a grinder cut of tool and a saw-all tool, I have everything except for the flux welder. I have painted my car using forums and following advice and it has come out ok and would like to do the same for welding my floor pans. Has some one used the harbor freight welder and if so what was the settings that you used it and what gauge of steel did you us. My floor pans are pretty bad and what I was thinking of doing is getting some steel and folding it at the ends and welding it to the car from the top. Thanks for your help.

dawg, what are the lights doing? What have you tried to fix the issue? Have you tried changing out the fuse block? Changing the actual fuse consule inside the passenger side, I live in Austin, and would like to help you resolve your issue, I also a good mechanic thats pretty good in tracing out electrical gremlins. Post what you have done and then we can take it from there.

I order mine from MSA for my 1978 280z, no problem at all, but I got the Tokico springs with the Tokico adjustable struts, I can't comment on the ride because i'm still working on the car and getting it ready to hit the road, but I have heard great things about them. I do like how it looks, it drop it and gave it a meaner look. Good luck on choosing your set up

Hey guys, sorry for the late reply I just read 78 zcar blue post and assumed that the thread was concluded, any way the reason that I also asked was that my daily driver 96 mustang gt, only reads when the ignition is on. Thanks for all the help, this forums are great, I have done many things to my z thanks to this web site. Thanks again

Thanks for the reply just making sure, didn't want the battery to drain, or put everything back together and find out that it shouldn't be reading when the ignition was off. Thanks you very much.

Fellows I have a question, I have painted the 1978 280z and about to start putting it back together, I also changed the face gauges and I just noticed that when I connect the battery the volt gauge read the voltage of the battery, even when the car is turned off is this normal for the volt gauge to always read voltage? I didn't noticed this before I took the voltage gauge because it wasn't working but once that I put in the new indiglo face I fixed it,simple fix, the needle was hitting and wasn't allowing it to move, Any way i'm just concern about it reading voltage even when the ignition is turned off. Thanks for your help.