al'z

Bumper is a huge improvement over the stock bumper. Nice to see. Good work. What about the rear, like zed hed asked. For future...maybe pictures along the way so we can see moving progress?

I may not have all the answers but at least I know where to get them. I saw an ebay auction for the linkage and wasn't sure it would work. I want to send in a complete core. Thanks for the help. I will likely keep the Holley until I have enough to buy the rebuilds and clean balance tube. I have been just DYING to drive the Z again since I parked my first a few years ago. Thanks again for the advice. I will post some pics soon so you all can see what I rescued.

First, I will admit I did not check every thread to see if the info I seek is already there. But I did look and did not find it out in the open, so... First a little history; A while back I bought (rescued) a '72z in much need of TLC. The PO had removed and replaced the stock SUs and installed an MSA downdraft Holley and manifold. As my son and I were about to drive off it ocurred to me to ask "what happened to the old carbs?". "Oh, that", he said. They had removed and thrown them into a trash bin in the back yard. We sifted through the bin and collected all parts that we could. Once we got home I organized the parts and found that the connecting linkage was missing. Now, I don't have anything against the Holley but I really like the SUs and want to go back. MSA asks thst the rebuildable carbs, including linkage be sent in for exchange. I admit I have not done all the research I can, I'm simply asking if anyone knows (and thus save me some research time) if there is a difference in distance between carbs from early to late SUs or if they will work with each other. Does it matter which head I use (I think not). Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Well said folks, let's just remember that this has very little to do with the cars and more to do with the manufactured "drama" that is the bait for the audience. Don't get sucked in to it and get all emotional about it. I was initially very excited to see what these "pros" would do to a couple of zs in 72 hrs. Sadly, I got carried away with the fantasy and was promptly grounded (should I say "floored") with the reality of the show's 72-hour limitation. They are not out to convert anyone, least of all fans of the z, they are simply playing to their target audience...

Douh!! A little too late. I am also interested in a crack-free '73 dash in case anyone else spots one. Just in case anyone has some leads, use this forum or my other email; alperez818@aol.com Much appreciated.

So, if my original gland nuts "survive" removal they will work with these Tokicos? Great, thanks.

Can anyone verify the claim by this person that these Tokiko springs are usable for a 240 if the original gland nuts are used? Tokico HP Shocks P/N HZ3012 & P/N HZ3013. Tokico Springs P/N 5022 F & R Spring rate is 185 Front & 200 Rear. These are linear rate springs (non-progressive). These springs/shocks have less than 1000 miles on them. The mission of the car changed, and I decided to upgrade to coilovers. These come complete with washers, gland nuts, and spacer tubing. Listed as 74-78 260Z and 280Z, but I believe these will fit on earlier cars if you reuse your old gland nuts (please verify before purchasing). Sold as complete set only.

Yes, lots of work and dedication into this one...I like the front bumper, but, ultimately...NYET!

Saw the movie this Saturday and I was not as dissappointed as I was set up to be (by the trailers). Unfortunately, I also feel it could have been much better. The wachowski brothers did an incredible job with the Matrix movies (only the first is worthy, imo), but they did more to confuse the hell out of my brain than the whole of my youth combined (toooooooo much neon). The best thing about it was how right the casting was, wow!!! Yes, even John Goodman as Pops. Speed, Trixie, and everyone else was spot on, imo. Those of you that are fans of the original will enjoy even as you find flaws and aspects that may leave you wanting. The Mach 5, and all it's gadgets, are superbly portrayed. I won't pay to see it again, but may buy the DVD when it comes out.

Yes, you are right. Carburated engines are more suceptible to water damage. Which is why I see absolutely no need to have them with FI. I'll chalk it up to Nissan wanting variety in the model year (parts is parts and they cost $).

Thanks. I thought as much. I'm just curious as to "why" only one side has the metal deflector. With FI I don't see a need for it.

Looks like this is turning into a "fuel vapor lock" thread. I am looking for some guidance on some hood vents. I bought a used hood from a guy that swore up and down it was for a '71z. I don't believe it is b/c it has two plastic louvered hood vents. Not wanting to argue with him, and b/c it was better than my smashed up hood from the P/O, I purchased it anyway. Anyone with first hand knowledge please chime in; This hood has a metal deflector pan under (engine side) one of the vents while the other side sits open to atmosphere. Is it supposed to have a metal deflector pan under both sides or just one? Does it have a practical purpose? I will post some pictures later today or tomorrow to help with id. Thanks in advance. al

Just found this thread (through the boobs thread) and am wondering; did the JDM covers ever get made available to members? I am interested. At $200.00 they are a bargain. Please let me know, I may be able to spring for two sets. Also, if anyone has fed back or helpful hints with this new production, please share.

Everything you guys already said, and...for those of you that have an "upgrade" or improvement to offer other members please post them as links. Headlight, dashboard light and turn signal upgrades come to mind. Love the site...thanks for letting me in.

Great find. Thanks for sharing. I think I need serious e-commerce help. I subscribed and ordered the current issue but I had to do it in two transactions. Oh, well. At least it's done.

Steve, that is some great advice. Thanks. I had read something about the valves tapping the top of the stock bore heads but I didn't realize I had that situation. I thought I could bolt the N42 without mods. You are a total work saver. Thanks again, al

Thanks for all the feedback. It will help in my next decision. al

Before anyone "sermonizes" (is that a word?) me for asking this question , let me just say that I've spent a fair amount of time searching the previous threads and came up empty. Intro; I bought a 72z with matching #s to use as a daily driver (I miss my z) while I take my time restoring my '73, after which I will swap cars:p. I started prepping the car to be driven by doing a valve job/head gasket. My problem is that I found the cam from the L24 was badly worn. I had the machine shop use an N42 from a '75 L28 (I understand this is very compatible), but this one also had a flawed cam. The machinist told me that his supplier could provide one designated for a '78-'84 L28. My question; Is it or is it not compatible with my N42 head from a '75 L28? I do realize I can go to MSA and buy a cam kit but I am trying to stay focused on the '73 restoration before spending undue monies on the '72 motor. So long as it is designed stock for an L28 can anyone provide some validation to what I think is a straight up compatible swap? Thanks in advance, al

Teflon tape will not do the trick. If you look carefully, you will notice that the mating surfaces of the brake lines to the MC match. That is, one is concave and one is convex. This is the "sealing point", not the threads (that happens with pipe thread b/c it's tapered). What you have is straight thread that are used to keep the mating surfaces tight and sealed with metal to metal contact. Hopefully you did not strip the MC female threads. If you had to use a wrench to install the line from start to finish, you likely stripped it-sorry. If you were able to work the line by hand until the very end, you likely didn't tighten it enough-easy fix. To know if you have enough torque on the line nut make sure you are using a properly sized tubing wrench (this looks like a six-sided box-end wrench with a small part missing). After running the line by hand turn it with your wrench another fifteen degrees or so. This should not require full-strength on your part. If you do this and it still leaks, remove the line and check the mating surfaces for rust pits, gouges or irregularities. You can usually get away with replacing the line from the MC to the proportioning valve if pitting is present. Good luck.

Sweet...very inspiring!! Thanks for sharing.

I had a similiar problem a few years back. I tried to solve it by never letting off the gas pedal except that I ran out of road and accumulated too many speeding tickets so I tried something else; I lifted the car and did a simple check of the u-joints. Take hold of the main drive shaft and twist it back and forth. You may be able to move it slightly (a few degrees each way), but you will feel it if the u-joints are bad. If the main drive shaft is ok, try the half shafts on either side of the diff. Should those things pass the test, check the transmission mount. A thorough visual (use bright light) should show signs of a torn rubber mount. You may need access to a car lift and a jack for this last test unless you happen to have auto ramps and are yourself svelte enough to fit under it to check. Don't forget you also have a strap holding your diff down, though I don't know that this strap has been a known problem. Others would likely know more about this. One thing; don't underestimate this problem. Take care of it asap. Good luck. al

SOLD! I will stick with the SUs. I am sooo happy I joined. I hope I can contribute something someday. You guys rock. al

Can anyone direct me to the Honda heater/wiper improvements? PM would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, al

Can someone deirct me to the instructions, article, whatever, for using dry ice to remove undercarpet padding. I don't want to "arse-u-me" anything. Thanks, al ps-where's the "confused" icon?

Can someone direct me to the instructions for using dry ice...or is it as simple as it sounds? Either way, I don't want to "arse-u-me" anything (is there an echo in here?). Thanks, al