shadesh

Sorry fellas. I am still trying to tinker with the carbs. I thought I'd post something as I don't want you to think that all your efforts to help is going to waste. I read through the page z74z90 recommended. Very helpful. I will update soon.

I use a 12 mm bolt. I turn the float bowl cover upside down and place the bolt on the float bowl cover and rest the float on the top. I then adjust the metal thingy so that it barely touches the metal pin (that opens and closes to allow fuel to flow). Does that sound correct? I think I will try your method .. seems to be more accurate.

so if I bring it up another 3-4mm, the float level will be a lot less than the 12mm as specified in the manual. Does that mean something else is out of sync. ? Although I might try bringing up the float a little more .. Lets see..

I have to bring this thread back as I am having issues with tuning my carbs. I originally had the float of my front carb set a 16mm and rear at 12mm as it is required for 1972s. Also, set the adjusting screw at 2 1/2 turns.However, the front 3 cylinders were not working. I then adjusted the front float level to 12mm. Set the adjusting screw 2 1/2 turns and still the same problem. BUT, when I set the screw at about 4 1/2 turns, the front 3 cylinders started working. I set the air flow using the synchronizing tool. What is the problem? Is the needle out of sync.? Please help.

Thanks Blake.. I appreciate it.

Can an ECU from a 1975 280Z be used in 1976-78 280Zs? Are the ECUs from the 1975-78 280Zs interchangable? Thanks, Shadesh

Thank You everyone. That helps plenty. ... now at least I know what I should be looking for.. this is useful information.

anybody?

Hi, Can someone give me some measurements here.. I want to chase the thread in the block where the head bolts go but not sure what size tap I would need. Also, what size die (is that the right term) would I need to clean up the thread for the manifold bolts? And, I found this tap and die set at harbor freight (item # ITEM 39384-2VGA). Its a carbon steel tap and die set. Anyone know if these items are durable or should I get a set elsewhere? Anything else I should be careful about while I am doing this? Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks.

what about 75-76 vs 77-78 console? Are they the same...?

Thank You Stephen.

Can a 280z console fit a 240Z? Thanks.

Hey Thanks.. I just saw the videos (2 parts). It seems that the float height may be the problem. I will re measure and adjust if necessary. Does this mean that the float level is lower than it should be? or higher than it should be.. I know it needs to be level to something in the bell housing or the nozzle??

no worries. I was a bit defensive there too. You have helped me quite a bit in the past with my EFI issues and has been appreciated. I have to pick up the uni-syn from motorsport... so far I was just trying to guage the flow based on what I was hearing..

Chris, See the attachement.. I dont really understand why the measurements would be different for a 3 screw vs 4 screw but here it is...

How do I test to see if all six runs when not idling? Do I rev up the engine and have someone pull the plug wires to see effect? sorry, just trying to clarify.. I had taken apart the carb and cleaned it, blew compressed air in all passages.

2 fast 2 Z.. I will recheck but it should be 12mm for rear and 16mm for front for a 3 screw carb.. sblake01.. Respectfully, I know you are a proponent of EFI systems and there will always be discussions/arguments over which is better but your comment above does not help me..

I just completed my SU converson on my 1975 280Z. I have the 3 screw round tops and could use some advise Upon starting the car, I find that the front three cylinders (Front Carb) are not working in that when I pull the plug wire out, the engine continues to idle without stumbling. When I pull the plug wire out for the other 3 cylinders, the engine stumbles. When I spray carb cleaner in the front carb, the engine begins to idle normal. When I push the piston up in the front carb, the engine does not die. When I push the piston up in the rear carb, the engine stumbles or dies. When I push the choke for the front carb, the engine idle picks up. The mixture nut on the nozzle is out 2 1/2 turns on both carbs. Whats my problem.? Can i switch the nozzles between carbs to see if the problem persists? Lean mixture in front carb? not sure here... Any assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.

heheh Zs-ondabrain. I like your layout of the wiring diagram. I actually printed up the 75 diagram on 4 legal size paper. I Thank You though for supplying me the attachements above. It is appreciated.

Zs-ondabrain, that is also a good idea. I think I am going to revisit my wiring diagram to see what I can relocate. I don't plan on going with EFI any longer..

sblake01, Thank You. Oh man! , I was really hoping I could take those off to clean up my engine bay but I guess I cannot go without headlights and all. Thanks again and Happy New Year.

I am finally converting my 75 EFI to SUs. I needed some help in determining which electronic components I should disconnect around the area circled in red below. (See attach.). There are various electrical pieces attached to the black box including the voltage regulator. I know I need the voltage regulator, but what about the rest. Can I just unplug the rest and put electrical tape over the open circuits? Do I need the fusible links as well? That is not my car by the way. I wish it was.

Thanks Powderkeg.. I got the gasket part. What insulators are you referring to? The one that wraps on the fuel rail??

sblake01, yes the head has the area cut out for the fuel pump arm. Anyone here have the eccentric you sell me???

I opened the valve cover last night and I did not find the eccentric (did I spell right) on the timing gear. Now what do I do? The eccentric should be the round piece that is in front of the sprocket and is not centered.. Do I just pull the eccentric off a 240 and bolt on mine or do I have to get the whole set, the sprocket, eccentric, cam and all??? Please help.