shadesh

wow fellas.. lots of feedback and appreciated as always. I will look for that eccentric mounted on the timing gear.. if its there, I may just buy the mechanical fuel pump and install. That replacement pump from the 72Z or RX7 is also a promising idea but will it be enough to supply fuel at high rpm given that fuel will come in at a constant 4psi vs a mechanical where more fuel is pumped in at higher engine revs..?

I am converting from EFI to dual SU's in my 1975 280Z. I will use the fuel tank and the metal fuel lines that are in my '75. I was thinking of using the stock EFI fuel pump, which is at 36psi. I saw a 3 port fuel pressure regulator (Mallory 4309 High Performance Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator) and was wondering if I could use this with the EFI fuel pump.? Or is the EFI fuel pump too much for this type of fuel pressure regulator.? I know that the SU's only need ~4 psi of fuel pressure. Is this something I could hook up between the fuel filter and fuel rail? I eventually plan on getting an aftermarket fuel rail. Is the 3 port fuel pressure regulator what I need to allow me to hook up the return line as well.? I wasnt sure what the difference was between the 2 port and 3 port fuel pressure regulator.... Any advise on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks Arne.

I am not sure if I can ask questions on this thread. I have a 75 with EFI and am converting to SUs. My question is: What do I do with the vaccum line on the distributor? Where does that go? Will I need to have some adjustment on the distributor that related to vaccum. Sorry if I am not being clear here. If I understand it, the vaccum pressure in an EFI system would be different than on an carbed system... so wouldn't some adjustment be needed?

Can someone tell me how I go about subscribing to the Classic Motorsports? Is there a website? or a phone number to call? Anyone.. ? I appreciate it.

Thanks Gents. I then will pass on buying that equipment. I appreciate your input.

can vaccum be measured? Wouldn't it tell me if there are leaks in the system or even how the engine condition might be, besides a compression test?

Is this what I would need to do a vaccum pressure test on my 1975 280Z? This is at sears? Here is what it says: "Fine tunes carburetion and timing peak for maximum fuel economy. Easy-to-read, 3-1/2 diameter face displays 0-30 inches vacuum and 0-10 pounds of pressure. Complete with hose and adapters. Fuel pump pressure. Mechanical condition of the engine. Vacuum control system function. For leaks in the intake manifold, manifold and head gaskets, piston rings, valves and vacuum lines." Is this the right tool? Please advise..Thanks

Will do.. Thank you Stephen.

Thanks Stephen. I do hear the injector clicking. Does that mean that the coil is good? With regard to the cold start valve, can I plug the line to the cold start valve, pull the spark plugs and clean them and put them back in and check the next morning? I dont want to start the car as I might have a blown headgasket.

I have a 1975 280Z. I have been smelling fuel in the engine oil. I pulled the spark plugs out and they all are wet and smell of fuel. I cleaned them up and plugged them back in and left them overnight. Next morning, I pulled the spark plugs again, and they were wet from fuel. I did this a couple of times without starting the engine and same results. Here is my question. Can injectors leak overnight with the engine off? What part of the injector is fuel leaking from? Is it bad O-rings? Is the injector not fully closed? Can this be repaired? Thanks.

I am finding that a few things are not working well on my 75 280z and am not certain how I should go about tackling these problems. I have posted questions relating to this car before but it has reached a point where I don't know where to start. A little background: I bought the l28 engine from a chap a few months ago who had a 75 280 also. When I pulled the dipstick, the oil was black (Dirty) and smelled like the usual old oil. The plugs seemed to have the usual carbon build up. There was no smell of fuel or coolant. I put fresh oil and coolant after I installed the engine and fired it up. The #4 cylinder was not firing. There was spark on the plug but injector was not clicking. I ran seafoam through the vaccum line on the intake manifold and also poured a third in the fuel tank. There was a lot of white smoke as usual but it went away after 10 minutes. This seemed to have cleared the injector as it was clicking now and the cylinder was firing. Since then, I have had other troubles. > After engine warms up, there is white smoke bellowing from the exhaust > The temperature guage remains halfway > Coolant level drops slightly each time the engine is run > The oil has not gotten milky but just slightly light brownish (light chocolate) > There is fuel on all the spark plugs now. Wasn't there before. > I can smell fuel in the oil as well How do I go about dealing with this? Where do I start? I want to keep it stock. This baby is not a daily driver so I have time.

man!! I was so close to getting my car on the road. I put so much work with painting the engine bay and all and now I have coolant leaking into the engine. It seems that alumiseal will be a short term solution and so I will go ahead and change the head gasket and the gasket for the timing cover. I was told that coolant could leak through there as well/? Thanks for your input.

Hi, I have a 1975 280Z and there is white smoke blowing out the exhaust. There is slight discoloration of the oil as well. .. (light brownish). I also notice that the coolant level drops after every run just a little. My conclusion is that I have a either a blown head gasket or cracked head. Has anyone used alumiseal (did I spell it right!) before? Would you recommend it.? Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks guys.. I appreciate it.

anyone?

I saw a compression tester for sale but don't know if its going to work on my car. Here is the ad: "Milton Compression Tester - used twice (made in USA) High Quality USA made Composite metric scale reads both psi and all metric ranges. Fits 14mm and 18mm spark plug holes 16” Double fiber neoprene hydraulic-type hose for long service life 0-300 psi capacity. (0 – 21 kg/cm2) Used only twice. Perfect condition." I have a 1975 280Z with N42. What size compression tester should I be looking for. ?

No.. I meant to state that the injector that was not clicking seemed to work after the seafoam treatment. I will change the oil and check again in a week to see if I have the same smell. Thanks Stephen. You are always helpful.

I finally got a chance to toy with the z again. I ended up pouring a third of seafoam in the gas tank and also through the vaccum line on the intake manifold... lots of smoke too. .. then I put a screwdriver to each injector and they were all clicking. I also pulled the spark plug wire from each plug with the car running and I could hear the engine idling rough and when I plugged the wire back, it would idle fine. That tells me that the cyclinders are firing as it is getting gas from the injector. Stephen, I do smell a little bit of gas in the oil though. Could it be that one of the injectors are not spraying the fuel but is just leaking? Also, can you give me the specs on what I would need to build me an injector tester? I am talking about the picture on the left. I went to a parts store and I was asked several questions.. 1. what type of battery? and how many volts? 9 volts. how many amps? 2. what type of charger for the battery? how many amps? Thanks for your insight. Its appreciated.

ok.. maybe I shouldn't have directed question to just Stephen.. does anyone have any thoughts... I could really use some advise here.. I appreciate it. (:

Stephen,.. Last night I tested the connection to the #4 injector using my test light to see if there was a pulse. The injector is getting power because the test light was flicking. Could the injector itself be bad or clogged? Stephen, you mentioned that you have "another easy to make device that can be plugged onto the injector to check it's functionality" .. How can I test the injectors functionality? If I find that I have a clogged injector, how can I clean? If I have a bad injector, can it be fixed or repaired? or just replace? Thanks.

Excellent! Thanks Stephen. I will test it with test light as soon as I get out of work.... man.. got a long way to go.

Thanks Stephen, Can I use a test light to see if the injector wire is working.? I would touch one end of the test light to one pin on the injector wire and touch the other end to the second pin on the injector wire. Will that work?

I have a 1975 280z with stock fuel injected engine. It starts up fine but idles rough and when it give it gas it is rough as well. I put a screwdriver to each injector and the #4 injector is not clicking. I also pulled the plug wires one by one with the engine on and on #4, there was no change. I cannot figure out where the problem would be? Is it a. bad injector, ? b. stuck valve, ? c.bad spark plug, ? c.bad ignition? What can I do to pinpoint the problem? Please help.. I don't know where to start...

Thanks guys! Now I know where it should go. This forum is always abundant with resourceful fellas like you. Your assistance and advise is always highly appreciated. Thank You.