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Which way does the current flow on the red wire that is connected to the E.G.R Cut Solenoid? Does it flow away or to the E.G.R Cut Solenoid? I am not sure which side of the diode I would connect the wire from the Water temperature switch??? Will I connect the red wire from the Water Temperature Switch to the wire between the E.G.R. Cut Solenoid and the Diode?

Thanks fellas. I will pour a couple of ounces of ATF (automatic tranny fluid) in the chambers and crank it tomorrow. Any idea why the oil pressure reading is so high. It goes up as I rev up the engine... Also, does anyone know what sort of compression reading I should be getting out of each cylinder. ?? Thanks again guys.

The car sat for a few years but I don't think the previous owner was "storing" the engine correctly by shooting oil down the plug holes. Yes, The stuff on the plugs is fresh motor oil.

I have a 1975 280Z with a L28 engine... N42 head.. fuel injected. Everything on the car is stock as far as I can tell. I bought this car not too long ago. I found that there was oil on all six spark plugs. What would cause oil to be on the plugs.?? Worn piston rings or worn valve seals or guides or maybe high engine case pressure.?? Can high engine case pressure cause oil to go down the combustion chamber??? The reason I ask is because the oil pressure guage reading goes above the middle .. I wanted to do a compression test for all the cylinders but I don't know what results I should expect. Does anyone have any numbers you could throw at me in terms of what reading I should expect.??

Hi, Can someone tell me how to wire the Water Temperature Switch for my car. I have a 1975 280Z. It is a California model,, not sure if that is important. The wires for the Water Temperature Switch was broken and I am not sure how the original connection was. I believe there are two wires coming out of the Water Temperature Switch.. Black and Red. The black would be grounded?? and the red wire??? I look forward to your feedback. Thanks.

I hope this helps. .. and sorry for the inconvenience.

Can someone help me on my question above.? Please.... I really appreciate it.

OK. I finally got to take a look at a few things. Here are my observations using a test light. A)Tested the wires on the top of the combination switch and observed the following. SWITCH OFF 1 2 WR ON ON ON R OFF OFF ON GW OFF ON ON G ON ON ON Is the above what I should expect. I tested the wires at the bottom of the combination switch and observed the following. I don't know what those wires are for? SWITCH OFF 1 2 RB OFF OFF OFF BY OFF OFF OFF B OFF OFF OFF WB OFF OFF OFF hmm.. does that make sense I will test the fuse box next. The fuses should be on the two on the top left? can someone confirm. I don't have a fuse box cover. Should they be on at all times or should they be on only when I turn the switch on to the 1 and 2 position? Thanks a million.

Sorry if I created any problems here. I was doing a search on the above topic and saw this thread that was relevant to my question... and so I decided to "plug in" and ask my question here instead of starting a whole new thread. I was just trying to continue on this topic which I thought was relevant to my problem. I apologize for any inconvenience.

I guess when you have an old car, surprises should be expected. I could kick myself just about now. I hope someone will see this post if they are doing what I did. So... there are two wires at the fuel pump. Per the wiring diagram, one is green and the other one is black. When I looked underneath my car, I saw two wires but one was green and the other was red. .. by the way, this is after I fixed the AFM so that the fuel pump would turn on when I cranked the engine.. . Thanks fellas. I connected the green wire to the negative (-) side of the pump and the "red" wire to the positive (+) side of the pump and wallah!!, the pump would turn on when I cranked the engine. BUT, there was no fuel flowing out of the pump. I could not understand why the color of the wiring on the car was different from the wiring diagram. A bulb went on in my brain and I decided to test the wires using a test light. Upon doing so, the green wire lit up and the red wire did not. Here is the bummer part. The wires at the fuel pump are original. The sleeve on the red wire was originally black. This was the ground wire. Over the years, the black coating wore off to expose the red sleave underneath. So when I was taking the "red" wire, I was actually connecting the ground wire to the + side of the pump and the green to the - side of the pump. This was causing the pump to work but in reverse? ...so the lesson is to use a test light to test the wires before connecting. This was a frustrating experience.. the AFM, the fuel pump, the wiring.... but I want to thank you guys for your input. Now I have a fuel pump that works as it should. Thanks!!!

I was looking at the attachement and had a few questions. I have a 1975 280z and I broke the temp guage bolt. .. also the wire for the water temp switch was never there although the bolt is there. I also broke the Thermotime switch plug as well.. My question is, 1. what are the part numbers for the water temp switch, water temp sensor ("Water Temp), Thermotime, and the Temp Guage? 2. where does the wire to the "water temp switch" connect to? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Thanks fellas.. so NGK it is . I will go ahead and use BPR6ES-11 plugs and NGK Wires as well as caps if I find 'em. My car is pretty stock so Magnacore might be stretching it, although I hear they are good wires too if ignition is upgraded, I am assuming to electronic.

Thank You All. Each time I have posted questions, I have been rest assured that I will get great feedback. This site and the folks on it are very resourceful. I will go ahead and buy a new radiator from MS. It seems like the best option. Thanks again.. I am ready for the weekend!!!

Thanks Blake, Would you recommend re coring the radiator or just buying one? I am in southern californina. Any ideas as to how much re coring should cost me vs buying one..?

Hello again, I have a 1975 280Z with A/C. It has a five speed tranny and L28 engine which I think is original to the car. My question is, what type of radiator should my car have. ? Should it have a single, double, or single core? Can I swap a radiator from a 260 or 240? I think the radiator in my car is from a 280/240 with an Automatic tranny because it has the pipings at the bottom for the tranny. How can I tell if mine is a single or double core? I am not sure if it will be more cost effective to have the existing radiator re cored or just buy another. As always, I look forward to your helpful comments. Thanks,

Can someone tell me which spark plug and distributor wire I should use for my 1975 280Z.? I am planning on getting them from NAPA. Also, which brand distributor cap should I use? Any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks.

I am getting my car back from the shop today.. I will look into that black wire and get back.. Wish me luck..! Thanks for your input. Its appreciated.

None of the fuses in the fuse block are blown. Are there other fuses I should check in the engine compartment? Should I check for continuity at the fuse block ?? At this point, I am not sure where to start?

Hello, The headlights on my 1975 280Z does not work. I used a test light to test the three wires that plug onto the headlight and no power. The park lamps turn on. The turn signals don't. The high beams don't work either. I also noticed that at the steering column, there is a black (thin) wire that is not connected anywhere. My guess is that it should connect to the ignition?? I cannot remember the color of the other wire to the ignition, (White and red, or red)... but should the black wire also go to the ignition. Is the open black wire at the steering column the reason the headlight is not working? What can I do to get the headlights working? Please help.

Thanks Geezer. I appreciate it.

Hellow everyone, Can someone tell me how I can remove the rear brake drums from the 1975 280Z? The brake cylinder is leaking and I bought the wheel cylinder kits but I cannot pull out the drums. Is there a special tool needed? Are there screws or bolts attached somewhere that I need to take out.?? Please help.!

Thanks Stephen, that diagram was what I needed too. I could not find it in my manual. It gives me a better idea of what those lines are for. Thanks again. I will punch that hole in and put the filter as Zspeed mentioned... and vavooom!. .. well, lets see eh!

Thank You fellas. I appreciate your input. I will probably just punch in the screen at the pick up tube and put a filter between the tank and the fuel pump. This is not the best way but is the simplest. Thanks again. I appreciate your resourcefulness.

I have a 1975 280Z and am having issues with fuel flowing out of the fuel tank. I bought the car not too long ago. It sat for a while and had varnish built up in the fuel tank. I had the tank cleaned and coated with the red Por stuff. I connected a 280ZX fuel pump and I can hear the fuel pump turn on. Upon cranking, the car does not start. I pulled the fuel hose going into the fuel filter and turned the fuel pump on. There is no fuel coming out.. I pulled the hose that comes out of the fuel tank going into the fuel pump. There is fuel coming out but is not gushing out. I would think the fuel should just gush out.. Should it.??? I connected the fuel pump wiring directly to the battery, stuck a hose from the fuel pump into a bottle of fuel and the fuel pump pumped the fuel out of the bottle and the pressure was good. Here is my question. Is the line coming out of the fuel tank, (the thick one) blocked? Is there a screen inside the tank for that line that goes to the fuel pump? Could the screen, if there is one, have some blockage.? Does anyone have any diagrams of pics of the inside of the fuel tank? Someone, please help.