Powerglide

Pure BS. Solid state components don't drift. Vacuum tubes drift as do oil filled paper capacitors. Neither of which exist in an S30 ECU. The ethanol in today's gas and or fuel delivery issues are far more like the culprit causing your off idle/low rpm stumble.

For that money with 12K "actual" miles...at Barrett-Jackson, ABSOLUTELY NOT!

B.S. I was there. The car was NOT that nice. It had VERY average quailty paintwork and the body was wavy. It was a $6-$8K car at best!

rust!

Get a STOCK Exedy brand clutch from Dial a Clutch in Boca Raton Florida.

Air in the system or rear drums are waaaay out of adjustment. Power bleed the system. Tighten the star wheel on each wheel cylinder/drum until the wheel stops with one revolution when you spin it by hand.

FORGIVE ME... But, NOPE. I don't buy it. The ECU is not causing your car to run lean. There are other factors at work here. A motor pulling 14 or 15 inches of vacuum has an air leak, retarded ignition timing, incorrect valve timing or LOW compression. The AFM controls injector pulse width below 3000 rpm. Suggest you check voltages and adjustment there too. Also consider the fact that a worn motor wants more fuel throughout it's RPM range. Especially at and just off idle. If your motor is old/worn/poorly rebuilt it will want/need more fuel to run well. Your stock ECU (and the entire EFI system) is having a difficult time coping with your worn/out of spec motor. The external inputs and the ECU are designed to work within certain somewhat narrow parameters that were built into the engines by the the engineers. When an L-Series motor wears, it wants MORE FUEL. When an L-Series motor is out of adjustment, it wants more fuel. That's why your motor is lean. It's NOT the fault of some circuit that may have drifted inside the ECU. I'd bet money on it.

Values typically drift with OLD oil filled capacitors. I have a TV built in 1947. The vacuum tubes are rock solid for MANY hours of use. It's the paper caps that drift and require replacement from time to time---mostly from DIS-use. Have you PERSONALLY observed said drift in ICs on a Z car ECU? I think this highly unlikely---but I really can't speak with much authority on that. Certainly specific circuits within the ECU can and do fail for a variety of reasons (like voltage spikes, poor grounding, etc.). But electronic drift within the ECU or the AFM? That would REALLY surprise me. NOW---changes in resisatance in the WTS or the CHTS or the Thermotime-switch??? That is quite COMMON..! The results of which we are all familiar.

GM's foray into fuel injection began with the 1957 model year. However, it was strictly a mechanical/analog system. Fuel metering was MUCH more precise than a carburator. But the design still relied on vacuum/venturi effect. AMC and Chrysler implemented ELECTRONIC fuel injection that was released for the 1957 and 1958 model years, respectively. It was expensive. didn't sell and was difficult for contemporary dealer service departments to service. Look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_injection Caddilac had EFI in the early to mid 1970s. Mercedes in 1968! Your Megasqirit project seems like an interesting technical exercise. But other than that---I fail to see the practical gains you perceive once you spend all that time and money. On a STOCK motor, you WILL get slightly enhanced driveability and milage and perhaps cleaner emmissions. Power gains will be VERY modest. The stock EFI definitely has it's limitations---I know that from experience. I own a '76 EFI Z car. But---if the motor is in good mechanical condition and it's TUNED PROPERLY---the stock EFI will deliver good power, milage in the 16-27 MPG range (depending on gearing) and is DEAD RELAIBLE. It's so simple too. If your car is "car is running pretty well right now"...why go through the hassle???

The pedal is hard because the rear wheel cylinder is stuck/sticking...

Styling differences aside...there is virtually NO difference in performance between a STOCK 240Z and a STOCK 280Z. In typical street tune, both will run 1/4 mile times in the high 16 to low 17 second bracket with terminal speeds in the low 80s (mph). A sharp tune may shave a 10th or two from that ET and add a couple of MPH in a 1/4 race. The 240 may feel nimbler...but ultimate grip, given the same wheels and tires will be almost identical. Replace the stock 3:54 R200 in the 280Z with a 3:90 and a stock Datsun 5 speed and it will WHIP a stock 4 speed 240Z in a 1/4 mile race. The EFI IS easier to get right than SUs and will provide better reliability and driveability in day to day driving than SUs and/or flat top Hitachi carburators. Your plugs will last longer, emissions will be cleaner and MPGs will be in the 17 to 25 range. NONE of this is particularly impressive by todays standards---but both cars are very ENTERTAINING to drive and look like nothing else on the road.

200K miles on an L Series Nissan motor is not "tired" unless it has been abused.

http://dictionary.reference.com/

Add in more initial lead and see how it responds. Motor should pull a MINIIMUM of 17 inches of vacuum at a HOT 850rpm idle. 18 is better. 19 is ideal. Watch/listen for detonation when adding in timing.

That's good advice. Unless you absoulutely have to have THAT car...sell it and get one when you are ready and able to do the work. S30s are fairly common. By the time you pay storage, insurance, parts (batteries, and other minimal maintenance items) you'll have potentially spent many hundreds (thousands?) of $$$ before turning one wrench. The car WILL deteriorate somewhat while in storage...I gaurantee it.