Powerglide

It's the alcohol in the fuel. It may also be a loss of residual fuel pressure. But that usually makes itself apparent by a hard start/extended crank/die out first thing in the morning. You might alleviate the problem somewhat by using gas with less alcohol. Install a second check valve between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Sometimes a piece of crud from the tank will cause the check valve on the pump to hang open a bit and cause a loss in residual fuel pressure. But again---this usually will not cause a HOT restart problem---only cold start, first thing in the am. Short of removing the check valve on the pump to clean it---you might try tapping on it with the car running to dislodge any crud that might be present between the check ball and the seat. Your injectors may also be leaking a little causing a RICH hot-restart condition. The car will stumble till it clears the excess fuel. But that shouldn't last more than 15 or 20 seconds. I wouldn't worry about it. An EFI Z is NOT a perfect system. Relaible by 1970s standards and FAR superior to poor running, carburated domestic junk of that era. Believe me. I lived it.

If the Rock Auto drums are TRUELY aluminum for that price---grab them and thank your lucky stars. Factory aluminum drums are FAR superior to the cast iron replacements sold by the auto parts chains---primarily due to the weight difference. The iron replacements will work fine and priovide good service---but they are TWICE the weight of the factory aluminum drums. And ALL of this added weight is UNSPRUNG weight. That GROSS increase in unsprung weight makes a light Z car ride like a TRUCK and reduces the ability of the independent rear suspension to react to road shock/bumps DRASTICALLY. Do some reasearch on the effects of additional UNSPRUNG weight on ride/handling dynamics before you put those 25 pound ANVILS on the back of your car..! Add some HEAVY oversized wheels and tires and you will COMPLETELY RUIN the way a Z car handles, steers, brakes and rides!:stupid:

You want a wheel and tire assembly of between 24.5--25 inches in diameter.

Make sure to use the original style ALUMINUM rear drums. The iron replacements are VERY heavy and will dramtically increase UNSPRUNG weight. They'll make your car ride like $^!#.

When you return---get her good and hot---and drive her like you MEAN it for 50 miles or so. she'll LOVE you for it..!

Please reserve one for me. I will send a check. OK?

Wrong. A "Stated Value" policy will allow the insurance company to arbitrate the value of the car in the event of a claim or total loss. An "Aggreed Value" policy will pay the full value of the inured vehicle's value in the event of a total loss.

After reading these posts with intrest, I thought I'd ask a question pertainting to the factory HVAC in my '76. The systems works as designed with one exception. When the a/c compressor cycles off---disengages---the ficd (or fast idle actuator) remains engaged. Even after shutting the a/c off the fast idle remains engaged. Even shutting the motor down does not release the vacuum in turn releasing the idle compensator. After 1/2 hour or so with the car off the vacuum releases and idle returns to normal base setting. What is particularly perplexing is that for a brief period---maybe 2 weeks---the ficd would in fact realease the fast idle when the compressor cycled off---and then increase the idle speed when it re-engaged. What's happening?:stupid:

Mobil 1 15W-50 has 1200ppm of ZDDP. Enough to keep the valvetrain happy on our Z Cars. It flows well down to 20 degrees---so start up is a snap. And it's GREAT in the summer heat here in S. Florida.

A FANTASTIK blue 1960 Austin Healy brought $100K saturday afternoon.

I JUST got back from the auction. I live 15 minutes from the venue. Pricing/selling is WAAAY down---probably due to the economy. I attend every year. Last year a VERY nice (solid #2 car) 1971 air-conditioned Z sold for $12,500. No Zs in attendence this year.

I think the drivers' side is hard to find. NLA from Nissan. I have a good one if you still need it. It's been in my attic wrapped in plastic and coated in grease for a year. I'll sell it to you for what is cost me plus shipping.

42 going on 21...

They won't stop squealing till you get the PBR pads AND the factory SHIMS from www.Datsunstore.com. Ask for Oliver.

"I am not trying to bring back Camelot or whatever the 1970's were." Camelot---the 70s---Mwahahahaha. Surely you jest. I'm in my mid 40s. I remember a great deal of the 70s. Jimmy Carter, Disco, lots of Cocain, Iran/Hostages, Shitty Cars and gas lines. Yuk..! Z cars were a high point. But FAST they were not. Still--a GAS to drive then and lots of fun now. Most cars couln't break 10 seconds on their way to 60mph back then. And the ones that could used LOTS of gasoline. Remember unless you could afford an exotic, performance didn't really return to the automobile until the early 1980s. I bought a 1983 1/2 Z28 H.O. that was considered fast cuz it ran low 15s in the low 90s. Ran like $^!# though---terrible hot running driveability issues. At least till I removed all the SMOG garbage on the car. Zs were and ARE more fun. Even if they are slow.:rambo:

I attended the auction on Sunday...I live 15 minutes from the site. I go every year. I went this year primairly to watch the Z car sell. I looked the car over VERY thoroughly prior to bidding. My observations are as follows: I have NO IDEA how the car drives over the road. I'm also not certain if the A/C blows cold. I spoke breifly with the owner and he said it was cold. Nice Z car overall. Nice Driver quality paint---definitely NOT SHOW QUALITY. Interior gets a somewhat better than average rating. Certainly not finished to the level of a national show winner. Again VERY nice driver quality. Under hood looked clean but driven. But I'd call that aspect of the car average at best! Overall---that car is a STRONG number 3 car. With 2 being a show car and a #1 being a PERFECT, never driven trailer queen. Compared to some of the finely finished, surgically clean mid-year Corvettes in attendence---the Z car was just OK. I also watched the driver crank the car 3 times to finally get it started/running in the staging area. Saw a bit of blue smoke on start-up as well. I think $12,225 is strong money for that car. As it would take quite a bit of sprucing up to bring it to near show level. My opinons are...just that...opinions. And they are free. Take them for what they are worth.