z_pyro

well, i have a car that I can DRIVE now!! it's a 95 Dodge Neon, has AC, CD player, etc. The previous owner was a girl who was heading off to college, she got the original white, scratched paint covered with a ??gray/brown?? color, looks real nice. It's only $4000, $1000 down. I'm parting out the z, so if anyone wants some parts, feel free to ask.

k, this my dad had a bankruptcy a bit ago, so the bank wont give us anything. I need to sell the car so i can get a running car. I have a license, so now all i need is transportation. anyone got a cheap car to trade/sell?

has anyone tried carfax.com? i did, and it said the vin needs to be 17 digits long. as far as i know, zcar vin #'s are only 10 digits. were the car histories just not recorded 30 years ago?

he doesn't want to get rid of the car quickly. I NEED a car quickly. The car isn't a POS, my dad has done quite a bit for him (as in donating a kidney), so he should sell the car to us for pretty cheap. I'll see what my dad thinks about escanlons' suggestion. To tell the truth, I'm really not ready for a resoration project. I just need a reliable car, and I'd like to keep my paychecks to spend on stuff I've always wanted. The car would be better in someone else's driveway, someone who can do what needs to be done

I CANT FIX THE CAR!!!! I DONT HAVE MONEY, I DONT HAVE TIME, I DONT HAVE RESOURCES!! I CAN NOT FIX THE CAR!! no one ever said the caprice wont break, but the z is ALREADY broken, I would have to spend hundreds fixing it, THEN pay $300+ for registration, then high insurance because its a classic sports car!! THIS CAR IS NOT FEASIBLE FOR ME TO KEEP!! and yes, I will be happy driving around because i will be able to keep my paycheck instead of spending it all on a high-maintenance car. yes, 31 year old cars are high maintenance, you guys all know that. as soon as you get one thing fixed, another thing goes out. again, FIXING THE CAR IS NOT AN OPTION!!

guys...IT'S TOO MUCH WORK!!! God knows I want to keep it, but there's too much work to be done! I need a running, good condition, reliable car that can get me to and from work and school without having to worry about it dying on me or totally screwin up the rear end. I'm sorry, but I just can't keep it! And about the caprice...it's a late 80's-early 90's model (the square, boxy kind). And getting nookie in a Z...seems impossible to me.....at least the caprice has a back seat

well, i'm trying to get at least 2000, as my uncle's caprice is 1500. i'll take some more pics and try to get them scanned (no, i don't have a digital cam!! :p ). the car doesn't look all that bad...if you know what you're looking at....

i have to get rid of my 71 240z. there's just too much work for a 16 yr old who needs reliable transportation, and is working 20 hours @ min. wage. The engine runs beautifully. It's a L28 block with a N24 head. Dual downdraft Weber carbs. Mallory Promaster coil (also, not on the car, Mallory Unilite distributor-needs $90 module to use). 4 speed manual transmission. It seems the previous owner was modding it for racing, as the AC/heater, radio, etc. were removed. The speedo, tach, clock, and fuel gague don't work. Most of the problems are with the electrical system. When the car is driven, there is a loud "clunk" from the rear end everytime the gas pedal is pushed. This is supposedly a U-joint, but i can't afford to put any more money into the car. The car is missing the front bumper, grille, all emblems (except the rear hatch vent ones, which are off of the car), AC, radio. The doors lock only from the inside; you would have to lock the passenger side, get out, go to the hatch, lock the driver door (i used a stick), then lock the hatch. This car would probably be best as a ground-up resto, or just as parts for your 71 240. The car was manuf. in 1/71. There is no penetrating rust, only some surface rust in the spare tire well, under the battery tray, and a couple of spots on the body where the paint has cracked. Overall, the car is in good condition, but i need reliable transportation ASAP, and unfortunately, the z can not supply me with that. I am in Fresno, California, USA (fresno is almost directly east of Monterrey, in the middle of the San Joaquin valley). You can private message me, email me at z_pyro40@hotmail.com, or call me at (559)226-8640. Ask for Mike Jr. If I don't get anyone to take the car for about $2500 (can/will probably be talked down;) ), the car will have to be crushed, as the DMV will buy it as being a gross polluter. Please save this Z!

like i said before....there's just too much work not only is the rear end shot, the shocks are messed up, the electrical is shot, the car is too much work for a person in my situation. Chevy caprices that are 10-15 years old dont break down or are already broken down as much as my 31 year old z. i need reliable transportation, not a project car, as the z is turning out to be.

Took a test drive of my z 2day...not good... there was a heavy "clunk" every time we accelerated, my dad said it was the u-joint..there's just too much work to do on the z for a 16 yr old working @ min wage @ 20 hours/week... tomorrow my dad is going to see of the DMV will buy it for 2 grand, for being a "gross-polluter"..... :( my uncle is going to sell us his chevy caprice....what a step up... well, if i can get $2k from parting it out, i'd do that....anyone need an L28 engine with a N42 head, dual Webers, anything else from a 71 240? :(

what color do the gagues glow? im guessing green, since the gagues have a green plastic shroud over the bulb...would getting different colored bulbs make any difference?

there should be one in the engine bay. look for a little yellow/white cylinder in front of the passenger side wheelwell. I don't know how to check it... do you have a mechanical pump, an electrical pump, or both?

i have a 240 made in 1/71, and the previous owner put a pushbutton start in that indentation above the hazard switch.

you might also check your point gap in the distributor. but it's probably a fault in the fuel delivery system, i.e. the pump(s), lines, filter, etc.

that's exactly what i did! i bypassed the dimmer control to see if that was the problem, but still no light. someone else told me to use a voltmeter and ground one side to where the gague is secured and the other side to the middle of the bulb socket. I got about 10-11V. Are the bulbs bad even if they look good?

Welding New Metal!? All i have is some surface rust!! I want to stop it before it becomes really damaging, BEFORE the point I have to weld. This car has no penetrating rust that I have found, and I have looked thoroughly. It just has some SURFACE RUST under the battery tray, in the spare tire well, and a little bit on the outside.

my gague lights don't work! i've checked the lightbulbs themselves, they work. the fuse box has been checked thoroughly(w/ multimeter too! ). i even disconnected the leads from the control and touched them (to, in effect, bypass the switch to see if that was what was causing the prob), but to no avail. am i missing something?

almost sounds like my situation, but i got the car. now, to pay $330 for registration.....:mad: :mad:

what kinda suspension work would u need to do?

well, it doesn't really stick...it just takes some effort to push on it...

in my 240z, i have a L28 with dual webers. the gas pedal seems like it's kind of hard to push; hard enough to make you push down harder, then it kinda gives way (not that im really complaining...oh, how i love the sound of that straight six ). would some 6 in 1 oil on all of the linkage joints help? i dont know if it would help it or hurt it... also, i used some engine degreaser, and now my valve cover looks like wizz! what is all of the yellow, flaky stuff on it? the oil fill cap is peeling as well...

coat with what? primer? i've heard that primer doesn't really protect against rust.....