owenk

This will be my last post. Things have been a bit tough lately and life is getting shorter and shorter every day. So I am going to quit working on my Z and travel full time with a biker gang to see the country. But don't worry about me - they all seem like nice people. A photo of the gang is below. It has been nice, good bye!

I would remove the air pump but do not throw it away or other air injection items. The day may come in some states that orignal smog equipment may be required and your items will be worth $$$

Thanks for posting the photos. Was the car made during the same time as the 510? It has similar lines.

Ok I am finely going to ask this question at the risk of upsetting some of you fellow Z lovers. Does anyone find that the all-in-one light switch a bit odd looking? I remember when I saw my first Z in 1972 I thought what the heck is that dorky looking thing. . . it looks like a potato on a stick! To me it seams like Datsun got a deal on someone’s screw up. . “Mr. K I have an uncle that can make you a good deal on European style light switch, . . . you will go for it! Great, here let me buy you another beer” Now I know that this was the very beginning of the “European” stalk controls in the USA so maybe this was normal for that time period. (can any of our European members comment, was this normal for cars of this time period?) Anyway I just want to know if I was in the minority or do others of you feel this way? Heck if it was easy I would remove it and place a toggle switch on the dash in that spot where all of us wonder what that heck goes in this depression?

The driver seat looks over warn for ~40,000 original miles as is it a 240? It has the flat top carbs. At first glance it looks interesting but I would like a close look at the car before I put any money down on it.

The location of the fuel tank is the factory location. In the early 70s they start placing fuel tanks in locations that were less likely to be damaged in a collision. My brother had a 71 Celica and its tank was in the same place. I remember it well because is sucked up 1/3 of the space in a small trunk. It always bothered me with it being behind the seat, just like in the old Chevy pickups it just seams wrong! Placing the battery in the trunk of a 510 is very common and my son did it to his but he enclosed it in a marine battery box which made for a cleaner and “safer” install.

I suggest that you look on the internet and find a West Coast Z with no rust. Then purchase some low air fair tickets then drive it home and you will end up spending less $$ and getting better car.

Dam I was already to get out the sawsall and start making cuts.

I have removed many clocks from 240 to 280 Zs at wrecking yards this is what I do. 1. Get a short cross point screw driver. ( 2.5 - 3") 2. Remove the glove box (sorry but all of the cars I have worked on the box was trashed so I just pushed / broke it out of the way. 3. Get the short screw driver and hope the screw will come loose. If it does not come loose I do the following 1. Remove heater / ac control panel, (there are 2 screws hidden up under the top edge) I am not sure what it stopping yours from coming loose. 2. If it has AC, loosen screws holding vent in place and in your case gently push it back out of the way. You should now have access to the screw with a longer screw driver or needle nose vice grips and should be able to break the screw loose. Once the screw is loose the bracket will move back by hinging on a point at the top and allowing the clock to move back and down. Note on 240s and 260s the access is uncluttered from the front but the 280s have more wires, lines and ducts. So sometimes I can get on the screw with the vice grips without removing anything else. On some I have to loosen the part that has all the controls for heat/AC/defrost. Note2: since you have a 240 your duct vents are old and will break when pushed on slightly so be ready to be upset with yourself.

If I could get an old worn out one to take apart I would make a patern and post on the site. I would be very easy to sew, you just need to get the fabric and thread that would hold up to the UV light

Yes you are correct, we only allow bad cowboy actors to become president. Is this a great country or what? Now we have a party boy acting like a cowboy and pissing off the world. We colonials must drive the rest of the world nuts because we change our direction in the every 4 or 8 years. We are an A.D.D. country. (ADD = attention deficit disorder)

Some of you guys will get upset with this opinion. At this point in your life it is not wise to waist $500 on an auto that will need much more than $500 over the next view years. The costs add up quickly. You may become a slave to working to support the car and the joy of owning a classic will disappear. You need a car that will start every morning, get you to work and school. I say all this from watching my 2 sons do the same. #1 son, now 20 purchased a 510 and after about 3 years of driving - working - working - driving it is now parked and he has Pathfinder that starts every morning so he can get to work and school. My #2 has just learned that it takes money and time to fix up an auto. He purchased a half built Toyota 4x4 thinking it needed only a small amount of work before it would be ready to go. It needs about $2000! It is now sitting at his grandparents home and he is look for someone to tow it off. I have a Z as a 3rd car / hobby it may become my daily driver but only after I am convinced it will get me there for me when I need it. Oh, the babes in the car mags are paid to lay half naked over cars! Most women could care less about your car. But they do care about if the car smells funny when running, or gets something on their dress. Cars like audio systems typically only impressive other guys. It is like women and clothes, only other women are impressed. Us guys only care if we can see nice curves. 2cents from a 48 year old (in your eyes older than some dinosaurs)

I have used the compressed air method on a L20B engine. I had to take the cam off. You only need 10-15 lbs of air pressure. Note your crank may rotate.

I do not have a photo of the Z in front of the house but here is my garage under construction. Note the service pit in the slab, it is just wide enough for a 240 Z to fit across. :classic: Garage

Found these sites on the web http://www.southwest62.freeserve.co.uk/v12shells.htm http://www.modeloneracing.com/productDetails.asp?prikey=157 http://home.att.net/~rThackerson/sparesa-jl.htm http://www.happyhobby.com/hobb_html/hobby.htm http://www.happyhobby.com/hobb_html/tamiya_r_c.htm

If you want it to sell, here you should post photos of car. People will want to see the areas under the floor mats and battery. Rust is the worst thing that happens to a Z and the possibility of a lot of rust will scare away many potential buyers unless it is well documented.

Looks like the buyer did well getting it for $1500. I sent the new owner an email inviting him/her to join our site

Here you go with a color photo. LINK

:disappoin eeek you want to purchase a vehicle that symbolizes America the, fat, the I have more money than you, oh officer just did not see that little yellow car on my left, you see I was on my cell phone speaking with my cat’s annalist. Sorry to you Suburban owners but I live in an area of California that has every SUV known, heck the parking lot at the local market has at least one H2 at a time and I have gotten very tired of large SUV owner thinking they can pull out, merge whenever they want because they are bigger then you! Now this is not only in a Z, but in a Volvo 850 which is not that hard to miss. Sorry I am ranting . . . good luck on your quest. Oh have you checked the KM/L fuel consumption?

Mike I have sent you a private message

Check out photo # 56+33 and 56-2 for a cool zed photos

I agree, also is brown carpet stock on the rear strut towers and other vertical surfaces? I thought all the early Zs had the diamond vinyl. This link show what I know is a original brown interior for 1972

I have found the CD that you can purchase from the club to be very helpfull when looking at interchangablty of parts through out the model years.

The large bumpers on USA 70s autos were not for safety but had to meet a 5 mph crash test without damage. Also they had to be at the same height so lights were not crushed / damage. I do believe the height requirement has been dropped and the 5 mph has been lowered to 3 mph. I believe this standard was championed by the insurance industry. Now what I found odd was that in 78 my brother and I were at a stop light in a new 78 Chrysler when we were rear ended. His bumper did its job by depressing the shocks and returning to its proper alignment. Just to make sure everything was ok he had the car inspected by the insurance company of the fellow that hit him and he was told that since the shocks had depressed they had to be replaced to the tune of $1600 :stupid: