HotrodPez

Zero Z, I had a similar problem on my Z. Problem turned out to be a bad fuel pump. It was still flowing fuel when I pulled off the line to check, but I could hold back the flow with my little finger. No pressure! Replaced that and I was good.

The twice pipes? From what I've heard, the headache of installing them is remedied by the glory of hearing them.

My engine was rebuilt as well (as told by the previous owner). So before I slap my fresh head and new cam on top of it, I'm at least gunna pull off the oil pan and see what it looks like under there. And maybe repaint the oil pan :-P

There's a large part of me that doesn't even believe you own a Z, however if this question is in fact serious, I suggest you take a look at your own previous posts and realize that your serious abuse of your (possible) car may have caused the problems of blue smoke. And on another note, if this question is in fact serious, you should be kept far away from cars in general if you have no idea what blue smoke in the exhaust means. However, I'm pretty sure you're just fishing for a rise out of us. So the thing that you must not understand about us Z owners, is that the patience learned in dealing with our temperamental 30yr old cars allows us to deal with your stupidity with ease.

My question regarding swapping diffs is the speedo... I remember that there were specific colored gears that went into the trans to keep your speedo accurate if swapping to a different gear ratio... anybody have good info on this?

That light indicates a bias between front and rear, essentially letting you know if one half of the system is not holding pressure. Could be a proportioning valve?

Well, in pulling the 5 - speed out of my newly acquired wrecked Z, it slipped and I smashed up the metal end cap and rear seal pretty bad. How do I replace this? Do I need special tools?

Thanks, apparently it is the brake warning light check relay, and as far as I can tell it may not be the problem. I think the problem is either the alternator or the voltage regulator.

There is a relay under the passenger seat on my 76 280z. It is zinc in color, and plugs into the main harness. Today it started clicking rapidly, and when it did, the "brake" light on the speedo flickers and the "CHG" light in the voltmeter flickers as well. Nothing else seems to be affected by it. I don't have a wiring diagram for this car, so can anybody tell me what this does and why it started freaking out?

My "winning" lotto ticket... would probably cost more to mail than it is worth. But yes, I have 3 cars... am using 2 for parts, and need to get rid of the shells.

Well I don't know where you're at, but I'm in Colorado, and i have all the above listed.

I'm just trying to get plenty of input on this subject before I start hacking away. Here's my situation: I have a 71 240z with heavy front end and frame rail damage. Otherwise the car is in great shape from the firewall back, no rust, fine interior, perfect windows. It has a 3 liter stroker motor that runs, but has a blown head gasket, so it leaks coolant, a 5 speed trans, and a LS200 diff. I also have a 76 280z that is in good shape, stock motor that will run on carbs, but the EFI dont work, with 4 speed trans and stock diff. It has rust in typical areas (rockers, lower wheel wells), and a cracked windshield, and a fairly gutted interior. I also have a 78 280z, that was free and is in unknown condition (haven't actually seen it, all I know is that it has no motor and has been sitting in a field for about a year). I also have a spare stock 240z motor, and some other misc parts. So what should I do? Try to part out the 240 into the 76 280? Or just try to weld on a front clip to the 240 from one of the 280's? Or....?????

Its looking to be around 300 bucks for a new front fender from Black Dragon. Does anybody have an estimate for for a Nissan dealer?

My mom had had 1973 240z that her parents bought her new when she graduated high school. And it was still in existance when i was coming up on my 16th birthday (4 years ago). 4 flat tires, faded tangerine paint, and a motor full of spiderwebs, but it became mine. I fixed it up enough to drive and it was my first car. A year later, I got a new toyota tacoma pickup and my dad was having the now not running z towed to his shop in anaheim on a flatbed truck. Somewhere on the 91 freeway, it fell off. and that was the end of my first z. But not my last :devious:

I can weld pretty well with a TIG. And the replacement panels come with the car. As for the big dent, are driver's doors easy or hard to come by (aka, would i rather slide hammer the dent out and bondo it or replace the whole door?) But yes, i need to go over the car again and see how bad the rust really is.