PATZ

Hi guys! This will be the first time i`l be doing this, so pls bear with me.I would like to renew my 240Z REAR suspension arm bushings(forward and rear lower control arm bushings) with OEM rubber that i already have (i woulda gone poly, but not in these here parts!). From what i`ve read i would rather leave the SPINDLE pin portion of the suspension arm alone if i dont find any real noticeable play in the wrong planes of movement. I`ve only looked around under the car without jacking up the 240z. Yes i`ve read through an amount of the threads on REAR suspension arm removal (also called a Transverse link right?) as well as having the Haynes manual. I just needed to make sure i understood it. The following procedure assumes i DONT mess around with the spindle pin/bushing portion of the suspension arm. So i plan on accomplishing this by detaching the entire Strut-Hub-Drum-Suspension arm, and here is what i envision the steps to do: 1- Raise rear of car via bodyframe sidemembers. 2- Remove wheels. 3- Put a jack under the differential and raise it till the jack supports the differential`s weight. 4- Unscrew the suspension arm inner bolts and the various nuts and bolts in this area of the arm to free the inner portion of the suspension arm. 5- Remove mounting crossmember. 6- Unscrew and remove suspension arm rear mounting bracket bolts to remove bracket and lift away that portion of the arm. 7- Disconnect flexible brake hose from brakes and disconnect parking cable from brakes as well. 8- Remove 4 bolts holding driveshaft flange at wheel hub end. 9- Disconnect suspension struts upper mounting nuts. OK, now here is my question, Can i just then lower the entire strut-hub-drum-suspension arm assembly and thus detach it? Am i going about this correctly? Also, how do i check for worn spindle pin bushings WITHOUT taking off the pins as i already mentioned? Any and all advice appreciated! THANK YOU. patrick

You guys think michigan roads are bad? you havent seen manila(Phil) roads, they are for the most part the absolute pits! I hope you MI drivers feel better now! The only place you can run your z or most any other fast sportscar would be our expressways (maybe our version of the turnpike?). POLY- Great sharp handling, but noisy on bad roads(i got em on my 924 but drive only on select roads and keep it lubed). RUBBER- Not as sharp handling but quieter on bad roads. your choice. Good luck!

I DONT have rear sway bars on the 240z. Just got through reading a topic from this forum that some later 72`s and 73 U.S. Z`s came WITHOUT rear swaybars, but thanks for mentioning it. We are getting other bushings (rack assembly mount bushings,etc..), i just mentioned the ones i wasnt 100% sure about how many i needed. Thanks for the list as well, you`ve been very helpful! patrick

Hi guys! We are just about ready to order some OEM RUBBER bushings from zcar source for the 240z so i just need to make sure i identify the correct type of bushings and the total number needed (to do LEFT & RIGHT sides) for some parts, as some of the rubber on the Z is eaten up so severely that i cant even make out that there ever was any rubber there! REAR control arm- I looked at the ZCAR SOURCE DIAGRAM, and can see that the Lower control arm bushing forward (#8) and Lower control arm bushing rear (#9) are the bushings normally needing replacement. I mistakenly call these (#9 & #8) the "inner" a-arm bushings as opposed to the "outer" a-arm bushings (the other pivot point of the control arm by the strut assembly that pivots on the Spindle pin #11). So what about the Spindle pin bushing (#10), is this a metal bushing that relies on proper lubrication? If it is, then i suppose i dont need to replace the spindle pin bushing if there isnt any excessive play in the wrong plane/direction, right? So i just need 2 pcs Lower control arm bushing forward (#8) and 2 pcs Lower control arm bushing rear (#9) to do Left & Right lower control arms? TENSION ROD- 4 bushings to do Left & Right tension rods Front swaybar ENDLINK- 6 bushings to do Left & Right endlinks FRONT control arm- 2 bushings to do Left & Right control arms So did i get it all right? Any replies appreciated, THANK YOU! Patrick

Okay, thanks very much for the info 26th-Z and Arne! I`ll check the I.D. number first and then go from there. patrick

Hi All! May i know if a STOCK 1972-73 U.S. version 240Z have the SAME Cylinder head specs(CAM profile, Intake and Exhaust Valve size) as the JAPANESE version? How about from other countries? THANKS A LOT! Patrick

NISSANMAN- Thanks for all the good info you`ve given me! I got hold of the haynes manual but thanks for posting the illustrations for me anyway! I may take up sblake on his offer. SBLAKE- i just PM`d you

Hi All! I decided to replace the un-original wrongly sized master cylinder and brake booster from the 240z. I ordered the correct ones from a NON-specialist autoparts supplier. The problem is that there was no flange(the 10mm spacer between the brake booster and master cylinder that nissanman mentioned to me) supplied with the booster. The haynes picture gives me a rough idea what it looks like. I thought it would be as simple as going to the machine shop and having the spacer made with a hole in the middle for the master cylinder to go through till the "ears" with mounting holes contacted the face of the brake booster. But i`m told the flange/spacer has to be made so the m/c seals AIR-TIGHT when it contacts the brake booster. I always thought any such seal/seals to be found in the flange/spacer were to just prevent brake fluid from leaking into the brake booster , and has nothing to do with preserving the right high pressure-low pressure differences within the brake booster housing. Does the fact that the m/c pushrod have to move in and out of the booster necessitate this airtight brake booster and m/c fit? Can anyone possibly show me any pictures(different views) of the flange/spacer and the hole with and without whatever rubber seals are in it? Anyone know where i can order this part in case it isnt just the simple spacer with a hole that i thought i could just have made? I tried the search function but no luck. THANKS! patrick

Your concern is noted beandip, thanks! And thanks a lot to you nissanman! i had thought about a spacer but figured it would be easier to just cut the m/c pushrod. But hey, a spacer(flange) is the original one so i`ll just go for that. The Z we have was previously owned by my kid brother who couldnt find a booster/m.c.(not common this part of the world), so he put whatever could fit(which didnt have a spacer, i didnt know that some cars used em, ignorant me). Now off to the machine shop for the spacer. THANKS AGAIN!

Hi guys! I bought the correct brake wheel cylinders for the "family" 240z(dad`s and mine, my mom and my wife are sick of car stuff!). I also got the 7/8 inch master cylinder and 7.5 inch(or 8 inch?) brake booster from some NON-specialist autoparts mail order store(think it was autoparts warehouse). Everything about the m/c is correct except when i tried to attach the master cylinder to the brake booster the m/c only went in so far until it made contact with the m/c Pushrod on the booster. So there is a 10mm space between the part of the m/c that is suppose to fit flush with the booster housing. I might have been sent the wrong part(booster and/or master cylinder??). Other than that problem, the booster fits on the firewall perfectly. Anyway, could i just cut off 10mm from the m/c pushrod so the m/c seats flush on the booster body? Any possible problems with doing this? I mean, i dont want to have to deal with the hassle of maybe shipping it back to the states and dealing with more downtime and possibly extra shipping charges! Any comments will be appreciated, THANKS! patrick

Okay, forget it guys, i just placed an order for a brand made by CENTRIC.

Hi all! Like the title says, i`m looking for this specific aftermarket brand(RAYBESTOS) of rear wheel cylinders for a 73 240Z(only coz it fits my budget, bout$55/piece). I`ve already checked a handful of NON-specialist mail order companies that advertise them but they always end up being out of stock. Anybody know where i can get em for sure? I`m not sure if it was the RAYBESTOS website that i checked but it didnt look like they had this wheel cylinder available!? Help pls! THANKS in advance. Patrick

I`m replacing the hard brake lines, just the shorter pieces, on the 240z coz it had SINGLE Flared COPPER lines(a "favorite" over here in the phil. coz its dirt-dirt cheap to buy and it can be flared at any auto supply store, and coz most of the population dont realize the DANGERS!). I just bought steel lines and had them cut it the right length and had them double flare it. I broke a cheap flaring tool(branded "General") trying to do the flairing. Then i`m just bending it by hand using some circular object, a pulley, tube,etc..I dont have a tube bender, thats why.

I`d have to agree with you guys who say that a larger wheel cylinder piston increases breaking force on the drums(or clamping force on a disc brake rotor), thus a smaller rear wheel cylinder has even less potential to lock up earlier. sblake01- thanks for "deciphering" FSM for me(i can be really ignorant)! jmortensen- well thanks to the CLASSIC ZCAR CLUB and all your responses my head wont hopefully be going around that long(no offense meant). sixshooter- thanks for the recommended reading! i`l surf the net for now. All that said, i decided to just refund my money for the wrong 13/16 wheel cylinder for the 240z and will order the proper 7/8 one from Autoparts Warehouse. Oh, if anybody`s interested you might check this website out : www.teamscr.com and check out their tech articles on brakes and braking performance.

Okay i decided to just refund my money for the wrong 13/16 wheel cylinders and will order the correct sized 7/8 ones(aftermarket) from AUTOPARTS WAREHOUSE. They`r made by Raybestos and will cost a reasonable $56.95 each. Now my headache`s gone! THANK YOU EVERYONE! Patrick

hey thanks Jimmyz! Oh sorry, its a 1973 240Z. I originally bought these wheel cylinders just a few days ago coz i took the neighborhood salesmans word for it that they were "ok" for 240Z`s, but discovered afterwards that they were smaller than the correct 7/8(although the exterior dimensions are the same as the OEM). But for the sake of convenience and PRICE(roughly US$30/pc.) we already connected it, so i guess i get to try it out. Being that i`m sorta on a budget i definitely dont intend to buy an adjustable proportioning valve, otherwise i woulda just ordered the correct wheel cylinders from the U.S. By the way, whats an FSM? Anymore comments anyone?

Hi everyone! I finally got a pair of REAR wheel cylinders, but just noticed afterwards that it was sized 13/16 inch against the correct and LARGER 7/8 inch! now, i'm not an engineer or anything but i do know that using SMALLER Rear wheel cylinders will weaken the rear brakes and thus affect the front/rear brake bias. being that my only choice is to order from abroad (more time and money) i'd like to ask your feedback on how this would affect the CONTROL and POWER of my brakes/car during everyday driving (of course occasionally i'd like to stretch my cars legs a bit, even on the twisties! ) thanks a lot! patz p.s. can you recommend a website for more info?

Yes that is pricey, but thanks TBK1. I`m still waiting for any replies from my last post.

That bad huh! Thanks for the info Arne. You musta spent a good amount on your OEM wheel cylinder Gary,of course that would be the ideal way to go for a stock setup i guess. I`m on a budget though so aftermarket is fine with me. Anyway i paid for a left and right wheel cylinder branded SANYCO. It fit ok till i discovered it said 13/16 on it versus the correct larger 7/8 inch. Now i`m not a mechanic or engineer, but i do know that smaller cylinder pistons on the rear decreases the rear braking power and changes the front/rear brake BIAS. My concern is how much this can negatively affect braking CONTROL and POWER during my day to day driving(especially on curves). I dont race cars but may occasionally want to stretch the 240z`s legs once in a while. I`m especially concerned about EMERGENCY braking situations! So thats the little theory that i know. So anybody here with any experience on what actually happens in a real situation (Any other websites you might reccomend)to help me decide if i should just return these wheel cylinders and order from abroad. Thanks! Patrick(PATZ is fine too)

Hey thanks for the warm welcome guys! Your right weasel, this club is loaded with tons of stuff. Thanks bart! And zhead my mom named me patrick coz she loved pat boone in her younger days(that makes me 45 years old next month, yikes!).

Hi guys(and gals)! I`m new to the Classic Zcar Club and in fact posted my first question in the wheels and brakes section just the other day, no replies yet. Anyway thought i`d introduce myself. My name is patrick. I`m from manila, philippines. Its actually my dad who owns the 1973 240z. Chassis# H15301L39510 Engine # L24145369. But he`s too busy these days so i get to start maintaining/driving the Z. I know very little about 240Z`s and Z`s in general. I`ve only driven it once, and what a rush(on the straights anyway)compared to the 2L 914 i had when i was stationed on Mcguirre AFB in NJ in the 80`s. My personal car for the past 13 years was a humble N/A 924(i enjoy this car on the curves, but it lacks the 240Z`s power!). All these years though i`ve always appreciated what most of you like about your Z`s, Power,Looks, reliability(i will keep this car stock for the most part), History, and relatively low maintenance costs. i guess its a "complete sportscar". I guess thats it for now. Thanks again! patrick

Hello all! This is my first post. I dont own a Z car but will be occasionally driving my dad`s 240Z(not sure if its a 72 or a 73) and will help with basic maintenance. So, being that i`m in the philippines its not easy to get parts(even good used ones) so we usually have to order from abroad , or, SUBSTITUTE other parts. I cant totally trust aftermarket suppliers here, so i gotta ask what other DATSUNS use the same REAR wheel cylinders as the 240Z? Oh, its a U.S. version car. Thanks in advance! Patrick