PATZ

Hi guys! We just received our 240z Vinyl kit from Motorsport Auto (which we had someone bring in to the phil.). Problem is that the instructions were not included. So may i ask if anyone can kindly scan the instructions for me. That would be much appreciated. Thanks! patrick

As stated above. Thanks!

MAPLES 7124Z- I just sent you a PM. patrick

Hi all! Like my title says, i`m looking for a new or good used ammeter/fuel gauge for our 72 240z. I`ve checked e-bay, and just missed a a good deal just last month from e-bay ( USED: US $9.83, seller located in japan). So can anyone help me? THANKS! patrick

Thanks, i`l read through it as well.

Hi guys! Our mechanic needs help with doing the ignition timing of our 1972 (or a 73) 240Z. First of all, the crankshaft pulley i believe is the wrong one, so he had to make new timing marks via positioning piston #1 at TDC (at moment of spark ignition, the mechanic swears it is so, and not at the exhaust stage). He then marked the crankshaft pulley in line with the pointer on the engine. The distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 high tension cable post of the distributor as well. We checked the distributor rotor`s direction of rotation when the engine is turned by the starter (Counter-clockwise). Now here`s the weird part (?!) When advancing[/u] the timing, he of course turned the distributor Clockwise, and instead of the idling increasing...the idle decreased!!?? And when turning the distributor Counter-clockwise to retard the timing, the idling increased!?? Take note that when turning the distributor Clockwise to supposedly advance the timing, the timing mark moved upwards from the pointer (meaning that if you could see the pulley head on from the front of the car, you would find the pulley mark turning clockwise), and that if you turned the distributor Counter-clockwise to retard the timing, the timimg mark moved downwards (looking at the pulley head on from the front of the car, the mark would be moving Counter-clockwise). So, what could be happening here?? Decreasing idle when advancing distributor, Increasing idle when retarding distributor?? We`r both totally baffled! Is the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley moving in the right direction? Isnt the distributor rotor supposed to point at the post of the #1 high tension cable? HELP PLS!! patrick

Arne- Yes thanks! I will just order an assistant strap.

MIC240Z- Sorry for the late reply, maybe i`l just do that. Thanks!

Hi guys! I`m looking for an Assistant strap cover (thats what the fsm calls the 2 plastic pieces that cover the mounting screws of the inside door handle or door pull, or whatever else its called). No luck with zstore or z car source, black dragon or other stores online. Anyone know where i can get these little plastic covers? Thanks! patrick

CURTIS240Z & JOHN COFFEY- OK great, THANKS A LOT guys! Appreciate it..

Hello all! Does anybody know for a fact wether the INSIDE dimensions- inside diameter and depth (the space where you put the strut insert in) of the Front strut housing is EXACTLY the same as the Rear strut housing? The reason i asked is that i bought a pair of KYB "Ultra SR" cartridge inserts that i put on the 240z`s FRONT, and was wondering if they would fit the REAR. I really dont want to bring down the rear struts and find out that the same or similar struts i have wont fit the front struts. If that happens, we`l have to order KYB`s from overseas, and thats downtime for the Z (express delivery going here together with importation taxes can drive a guy nuts over here!) I did buy the KYB`s from a KYB distributor over here. According to the distributor the GR-2`s are known as EXCELL-G`s over here. The (strange) problem is that the distributor says he has no cross reference number for the GR-2`s to EXCELL-G`s (at least for the 924). So i have no choice but to get whatever cartridge insert fits inside the strut. This unfortunately is the "state of the nation". THANK YOU! Patrick

THAK YOU ALL for the responses! I decided to leave alone the left strut housing that i already filled up with 3 or 4 spoons of engine oil, but decided to just lightly grease the right side cartridge insert to help minimize corrosion. WALTER MOORE- KYB.com.ph Click on Technical info, the click on Common fitting tips @ Common failure reasons

Thats interesting to hear, do you remember what particular KYB`s they were? The warehouse i bought the kyb`s from (an official KYB distributor over here) just gave me the inserts and dispensed with the box and instructions altogether (go figure.. this is after all a developing country). I just assumed it was sop to put in some oil. I`l try them again and ask for the instructions (if any), otherwise i`l have to go hunting on the good ole internet! Anybody else care to share anymore with me?

I just saw an Official KYB site that says NOT to put ANY oil or liquid inside the strut housing as this may damage the cartridge insert. Says that KYB cartridge inserts are designed to be used WITHOUT any oil or liquid at both high and low temperatures. Another section of the same website said that physical defects of the cartridge outer shell may be caused by frozen liquid (the one you put in the strut housing). I just got through putting bout 4 tablespoons of leftover Fresh ENGINE oil in one strut housing, i hope that wasnt a BIG mistake? Nothings gonna freeze here of course (i live in the TROPICS). So what else can be so bad w/putting oil in the strut housing, might the SEALS at the top portion of the cartridge insert react w/ the engine oil causing the seals to deteriorate prematurely?? Should i take down the strut assembly (again) and throw out the oil?? Maybe i shoulda used hydraulic jack fluid?? I will start putting in the cartridge insert in the other strut housing tom. I need your comments please, as the suspense is killing me! THANKS! patrick

Ok thanks john, that`s exactly what we all need to hear! Thankfully though the machine shop had the equipment to fix it! So i take it you`ve been down that road before...

Hello ALL! I accidentally dented a portion of the lip of the original strut housing ( bout an inch, along with a couple of threads) such that the non-threaded portion of the upper gland nut (the one needing a 55mm wrench?) wont even go inside the strut housing, which is to say that i obviously cant screw in the gland nut! I just bought new kyb inserts and dont want to have to order a new strut (GR-2) from abroad (none available here). I plan on taking this to the neighborhood machine shop. Any ideas on how the machine shop SHOULD go about this (the CORRECT way)? And any ideas on how the machine shop COULD go about it (the less correct way) if they lacked the proper tools? I need this info so i can decide if the machine shop i go too has the right tools, or at least know what their doing. I plan to go tom. THANKS Guys! patrick

Hello ALL! I accidentally dented a portion of the lip of the original strut housing ( bout an inch, along with a couple of threads) such that the non-threaded portion of the upper gland nut (the one needing a 55mm wrench?) wont even go inside the strut housing, which is to say that i obviously cant screw in the gland nut! I just bought new kyb inserts and dont want to have to order a new strut (GR-2) from abroad (none available here). I plan on taking this to the neighborhood machine shop. Any ideas on how the machine shop SHOULD go about this (the CORRECT way)? And any ideas on how the machine shop COULD go about it (the less correct way) if they lacked the proper tools? I need this info so i can decide if the machine shop i go too has the right tools, or at least know what their doing. I plan to go tom. THANKS Guys! patrick

THANKS A WHOLE BUNCH for ALL your replies! Mine looks likely rusted and will require more than penetrating oil. ARNE- Thanks for reposting by the way! I can now proceed with more confidence. Patrick

Hi EVERYONE! As the title says my strut INSERT is stuck(rusted?) in the strut housing. I`m putting in KYB GR-2`s. Any tips on how to remove them? Last night i put in some wd-40 in the strut housing. Otherwise i`m thinking of putting the shock absorber insert shaft in a vice and maybe using a hammer on the hub or the lower portion of the strut housing, would this be a good idea? I DONT have access to any part of the strut assembly locally should i accidentally break anything! Any advice? THANKS! patrick

Hi guys! THANKS A LOT for ALL your concerned replies! I finally bought a pair of the cheap taiwan made compressors. If i had the bucks to cough up i woulda bought a better made compressor (for SAFETY reaons!). It has a max opening of 10 in. but has no locks (i will figure out some kind of lock to use). Whats funny is (its really NOT funny) that the few times i used the clothsline "compressor" i got it done with no drama, and the one time (my first and only time) i used a simple wallmounted (non-hydraulic) compressor had the spring fly off, narrowly missing my face and missing someone elses newly painted car by inches (begginers luck?). Of course i`m NOT endorsing the clothsline method...my luck could run out... Again, THANK YOU ALL for all the VALUABLE info,tips and precautions! patrick

Hi guys! THANKS A LOT for ALL your concerned replies! I finally bought a pair of the cheap taiwan made compressors. If i had the bucks to cough up i woulda bought a better made compressor (for SAFETY reaons!). It has a max opening of 10 in. but has no locks (i will figure out some kind of lock to use). Whats funny is (its really NOT funny) that the few times i used the clothsline "compressor" i got it done with no drama, and the one time (my first and only time) i used a simple wallmounted (non-hydraulic) compressor had the spring fly off, narrowly missing my face and missing someone elses newly painted car by inches (begginers luck?). Of course i`m NOT endorsing the clothsline method...my luck could run out... Again, THANK YOU ALL for all the VALUABLE info,tips and precautions! patrick

Hi guys! I`ve never used any kind of coil spring compressor to change a strut(I believe i have the STOCK Springs). I always "asked" someone else to just tie clothsline wire 90 Degrees from each other along the length of the coilspring while the weight of the car was on the coilsprings (macpherson struts in my case). So i end up with a (UNSAFE) "compressor" of sorts that i just cut away at when the macpherson strut is already installed in the car. Finally i`m getting a cheap Macpherson strut compressor (the one with 2 Threaded rods and their mating clamp/hooks and nuts you turn w/ a wrench). So whats the right LENGTH of compressor to buy? I assume its whatever length of adjustment will allow me to grab at the HIGHEST point and LOWEST point of the coilspring while the spring is compressed w/ the car jacked up on the bodyframe sidemembers(wheel off) and a jack under one hub/rotor jacked up to compress the spring sufficiently and still leave space for the compressor clamp/hook to fit between the coils. OR, will i be able to just take out the whole Macpherson strut assembly WITHOUT using a spring compressor and WITHOUT removing the retaining nut on the cartridge insert(KYB GR-2`s in this case), and only then use the spring compressor for easy access? I dont know, i just took a casual peak under the fender wells and noticed very little space to the front and rear of the coilspring, but maybe thats because the strut assembly hasnt been disconnected yet from the rotor/hub assembly? I do have the FSM and HAYNES and all that VALUABLE INFO from this site on changing the strut inserts, but NONE on how to use or what length of spring compressor to use. THANK YOU! patrick

DORADOX- THANKS for the reply! I better catch up on my reading...

HI ALL! I was referred to a TOE-IN Calculator (converts TOE inches to TOE degrees) at HybridZ.org. I was required to plug in the ff: Tire width, Tire profile, Wheel diameter and of course the TOE inches i wanted converted to degrees. My question then is: Does this mean that the FACTORY (Stock) alignment values (Toe in this case) for a stock 240Z with the stock sized rim-tires (obviously) apply to a differently sized rim-tire combo (in my case, 15" rims w/ 205/55 tires)? This is not for racing applications, but for everyday driving. THANKYOU! patrick

THANK YOU ALL for the responses! One of these days i`ll try the math just to maybe get a better understanding/appreciation of how it all works. But for now i`ll stick with the Conversion Calculator at the HybridZ site courtesy of jmortensen (thanks guy!) patrick