JoelH

I had another thread later on this problem so I saw your post and can answer your question. I ended up cutting the bellcrank arm after the washer was attached per the procedure. I had a heck of a time trying to get the e clip back on until I made another mod. I had got my hands on a few bellcranks when trying to get them from a couple of vendors. There are at least three different versions and they all seemed to have been used on a '72. With each of these I got two bushings so I had plenty to spare. What I did was use a total of three bushings on the shaft when I installed the new modified bellcrank. You will put the bottom bushing with the "lip" on it as normal. The other two will be installed on the shaft after the lip on each are removed. I used a small hacksaw and filed any ridges off. The washer adds height to the bellcrank and in the stock configuration the bushing lip goes over the top and the e clip sits atop that. By cutting the lip off the top one you compensate for the washer and you can slide your clip on. The only reason I used three was so they form a continous bushing up the shaft since you don't have the lip on the top preventing it from sliding down. I then applied some lithium grease on the outside of the bushings before slipping the bellcrank down in place. BTW, it drives nice and smooth now. The mod really does work. It's a blast to drive now, nice and smooth.

You could eat off that Julio! Looks nice.

As an owner of a 72 Lime Z I would say I bought into the condition over color argument. But the color actually grows on you! My favorite color combo is the blue/white interior as well but they don't pop up too much. I did look hard at a green 280Z with white interior but I wanted my 240 more than the color. I do think alot of people would have passed on my lime Z though and they missed a beauty!

Looks sharp Julio!

I had play in mine as well so we replaced it. Still the clunk. In my case we think it may be a worn stub axle. It can cause the clunk as well. I got a used R180 from ZBarn for $180 shipped to my door and I still have the old one. Replacing the stub axle can be a big deal so I decided to live with the clunk for now and throw $$ at it later. When I tackle the problem I'll probably replace all rear bushings, stub axle, yadda yadda = new rear suspension. Good luck with yours. From what I can tell, the clunk is very common but not deadly.

Here's some pictures of he bellcrank (modified) and stock. I also made a pic of the screws I used. One problem I encountered was reinstallation on the shaft. By adding the washer I brought the height of the bellcrank up above the c-clip groove. I have a very small amount of space (maybe a thin washer's worth) above the bellcrank where the shaft potrudes. How can I secure the bellcrank to the shaft? It can easily be pulled off by hand without the clip and I'm afraid due to road vibrations, bumps etc it will pop off. Even if the whole bellcrank doesn't pop off the bushing could come out and it would wobble. Any ideas?

They're one in the same. I'll try to snap a picture tomorrow after the JB Weld dries.

You mean how to do the mod or what the problem is like? The link describes the procedure as good as I can. Only other thing you would need to do is adjust the linkage rod parallel to the firewall to fit the new angle.

Just an update - It may help others who have the "throttle lag" "aggresive throttle" etc. My 72 had the seemingly common problem of when you are in second gear and turning a corner, give it gas - delay - then BAM it jerks you back in the seat. I used this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23568&d=1212283739 procedure with a spare bellcrank and it fixed my problem! I'm letting it set up with JB Weld for a good bond right now but before that I screwed it together and tested it on lots of neighborhood roads in the 20-30 mph range. I made a bunch of turns and I'd say the jerk is gone. Thanks to whomever came up with this fix!

Thanks for the offer Bob, that's very generous of you but I already have the later (shorter) bellcrank that I received today. Unfortunately, even though my production date is later, I need the longer one. Thanks again!

I had planned to reposition the arm with this bellcrank. I wanted to save my original. I'm not sure where the point is you are talking about. Anyone with a picture?

I've been trying to smooth out my touchy carb linkage in my 1972 240Z. It's build date is 8/72. There are two bellcranks used in the 1972 and from a parts supplier where I've attached pictures it appears there is a different bellcrank after 6/72. The earlier one looks like this: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/53387/catid/7643_7653/Carburetor_Linkage__Bell_Crank_70_6_72__with_used_bushings_ And the later one looks like this: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/53388/catid/7643_7653/Carburetor_Linkage__Bell_Crank_7_72_78__with_used_bushings_ My linkage looks like the earlier model. I ordered a bellcrank from ZBarn and he sent me the later one. Could it be I have the wrong one in the car causing my touchy accelerator? The pictures I've seen with the later bellcrank seem to have a shorter post it sits on. Mine seems to be proper for the post or longer than the short post. I probably need to get the earlier one but just wondered if the build dates are correct for this bellcrank and if they are interchangeable? Does anyone with the newer one have a short post or does your post stick up higher than the top of the bellcrank?

Only thing I see with the bellcrank mod and screwing it together is durability. I'll keep the original bellcrank in the car just in case it breaks while I'm driving.

I'll try that fix now Carl. That diagram is a little more clear than the other one I saw describing that fix.

I replaced the small linkage to the carbs with the longer 280ZX rod with a bend. I think it helped a tiny bit but the surge is still very evident. When I'm in 2nd and turning the corner it really bucks. I need to smooth this out somehow or start wearing a neck restraint while driving!

Here's the BEFORE measurements: Left front .41 RF .16 Camber LF 2.84 RF 3.54 Caster LF -.21 RF .42 Toe Front .22 Total Toe Steer Ahead -.32 Left rear -.77 RR -.73 Camber LR .74 RR -.17 Toe Rear Total Toe .56 Thrust Angle .46 AFTER: Left front .40 RF .26 Camber LF 2.84 RF 3.54 Caster LF .14 RF .14 Toe Front .28 Total Toe Steer Ahead 0.0 Left rear -.77 RR -.69 Camber LR .74 RR -.15 Toe Rear Total Toe .59 Thrust Angle .44 That's what they gave me. The wheel shimmys a little (about a half inch side to side) when I release it driving down the road. It may have been a little loose with the other tires but not as bad as now. I went front 175/65/14 to 205/60/15. It's not a really bad feel. Had I driven it from the beginning like this I'd just say hey it's 36 years old but it was better. If it is a balance issue I'll take it back because it really doesn't pull, just shimmy.

When I got my new wheels the shop couldn't adjust my rear wheels and get them aligned. I notice a little steering wheel bounce now. I saw a kit I think at MSA and I can't find it now to help adjust this. Can someone explain to me what this kit does, why it's needed and how difficult it is to install? If anyone has a link to it too I'd appreciate it. I'd just like to get all the wheels aligned and know what's going on with this kit.

Should look great soon Arne!

Those are funny but on the serious side I've always thought it kind of devious to wait for the buyer to leave feedback before leaving feedback as a seller. I figure they are waiting to see if they get bad feedback to retaliate. IMO there are two parts to an Ebay transaction, the payment and delivery. As a buyer, if I win an auction and send you payment via Paypal an hour after the auction closes, my side of the transaction (payment) is fulfilled and seeing as I paid very promptly, I should get a positive feedback in short order. When I get the package and everything is ok, then I give you a positive and for the record I've never given a negative on Ebay. If I get the item and it's not up to par and say we can't reach an agreement then I would be forced to give a neutral or negative feedback. That shouldn't change the positive feedback I received for prompt payment and the seller should leave me my feedback without waiting on mine. I don't leave feedback to sellers who don't leave me one and I think most are just waiting for a positive first so I guess I like the new policy. For the record I also have 100% positive feedbacks. Just my 2 cents, I'm sure some will disagree.

I think there are many people (including me) who would prefer to conduct transactions of this type outside the confines of Ebay. Good luck with your sale!

Ok, that makes sense. Thanks! BTW, that JB Weld seems really strong.

That is a good suggestion but I would have to thread the piece I attached so that I could screw the plastic connector back on. I also don't want to adapt my rod and have no backup so I would want to get another rod anyway. Unless I can explain it to a parts place or find someone who has one here I may be doing just what you say. I don't know the ZX's at all but I looked at a picture of a 280ZX motor and I saw the rod connected to the linkage towards the front of the motor.

Well, I got another bellcrank and linkage rod and attempted this mod. I sawed off the top bellcrank arm and used some JB Weld to re-attach it in the new position. Unfortunately the arm was a little off when I clamped it so it dried tight a little offset so the top bushing won't fit. I guess I want to try the "hockey stick" fix as shown in the picture. This seems to be a much easier fix and I hate paying for another bellcrank. I did relube the linkage and it improved very slightly. I think the rod is from a 280ZX. Not sure if a 280Z would be the right one but if anyone knows for sure please chime in! I'd like to get my hands on one of these rods so if anyone has one they want to part with please pm me. Thanks!

I am the new owner of #98389. It is listed as #38 in Evanow's book and held by NNA. It is definitely not one of the Vintage Z's, but a very nice car nonetheless.

I think the bend you are talking about Jason is on the carbs and it you have to get a longer rod and "bow" it to fit. That probably would have been cheaper than the bellcrank but I'll give this a shot.