five&dime

I have also used Omni on a number of projects. It is decent, but I have found that with PPG and a good gun I don't need to wetsand. With Omni, wetsanding is necessary. I don't ever use Omni for my own stuff but I do on friends cars trying to save money. That being said, when it comes to paint.... I would always pay double for materials as I have heard Omni will last half as long as PPG under the elements. I can definitely tell the difference b/t the two. PPG is much better at color matching. I recently painted bumpers for a friend where he was on a budget. We couldn't do it with PPG so we used Omni for the base and PPG for the clear which came out pretty nice. Omni does pretty well with single stage too. And to BR-Z.... I also love the smell of PPG

Just curious why you didn't just post this in the classifieds section?

I did the bay in my 510 myself. I didn't remove the harness. I used aluminum foil to wrap the large areas of the wiring/harness and masked the rest. Just make sure you wrap it good w. foil b/c if not you will get overspray through to the wiring. I pulled all the wiring to the middle of the bay and set it on the crossmember. I just scuffed everything with 320 grit followed by 3M scotch pads. Pre-cleaned and re-sprayed with PPG base/clear. I did the whole thing in a weekend in my garage for about $250-300. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2521597460/" title="IMG_8871 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3103/2521597460_35b609cc09.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_8871" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2520781279/" title="IMG_8880 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3153/2520781279_ac8dcf0aa4.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_8880" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2522358146/" title="IMG_8888 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2420/2522358146_58c46e4756.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_8888" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2522166925/" title="IMG_8898 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3192/2522166925_3a054cd735.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_8898" /></a>

Wow!!! Very impressed with the stripe. I wouldn't have imagined it would look that good

Sounds like Garagegoon got Charlie Sheen's old Z

I assume that all the bright blue under the hood is from the paint but how did it also end up on the passenger seat? Looks like blue chalk??? Great advice here. Carl is dead on!! If you ARE heart set on restoring this one soon, I would pull the engine and start stripping the body. My first order of business would be to get the body and engine bay straight. Get some paint on her. Then you can build an engine and drop it in a clean car. Looks pretty rust free. That is the most important thing to look out for when buying a Z IMO. This car will definitely be a slow restoration lasting at least a year working every weekend. I imagine the cost of bringing her back to life even with doing your own work would be in the $12-20k + range based on these photos. My main concern would be what's hiding under the re-spray

You can look at pix of the process my dad and I went through on his current resto. We did everything in satin black urethane. Looks great IMO. Lots of before and afters here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643

So it's you buying up all these great VZ cars!!! You may want to watch the address listing there. I am currently on my way to your house with a semi car carrier

Sailor Bob.... I think your spot on with your goal. When I get my S30, I would like a red one with a black hood, black or charcoal Watanabe's and black front & rear spoilers

I love satin black hoods. I don't know why I just like the contrast depending on the exterior color of course. I painted the hood on my orange 510 satin black. I was planning on painting her orange later but decided to keep it as is b/c I love it so much. I used PPG epoxy primer which came out satin. I just painted a friends truck satin black using single stage paint and will shoot my hood with that soon. If you really want it to be nice, I would shoot it with black followed by clear coat with a little flatener added to it. You want to go satin though. If you go flat, generally everytime you wash it or rub against it, there is a high probability it will scuff the finish.

We shot the rear of my dads 72 lime car b/c the PO had done it in gloss. We used a gunmetal grey color that we closely matched and then sprayed PPG clear coat with flatener added using an HVLP gun. From what I can tell looking at pictures, some of the cars had grey rear sections and some had black depending on the exterior color. It may be an optical illusion but it appears Kats cars have the two different color rears. Maybe he can elaborate.

I watched the movie Wall-e last night. Probably the most impressive animated film I have seen yet. For all that have seen it, maybe you can verify. It seems that in two seperate scenes, Wall-e has a Datsun "D" 240z hubcap in his little shed. He even uses it for a little dance number in the film. I could have sworn it was a 240z hubcap but wanted to see if anyone else noticed. If this is too lame for a thread discussion, maybe members could also list movies the Z appears in over the years

Can't access eBay from work. Could you post some pix? My dad told me about this car on the way to work this morn. I guess I could just be patient and look from home

Actually funny you mentioned. My dad just dropped a bunch of stuff of to get cad plated last week locally. We should have it back by Friday. I know the guy who restored his white 70' took a whole bucket of parts and bolts and had it all done for under $100 in AZ. The local guy here in Richmond charges a minimum of $100. We will post some pix when we get it back. We are pretty excited to see the results.

You can probably find plenty in the thread of my dad's resto here. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643

It is my baby She is a screamer. I would love to see more pix of your car. I tried to click on your gallery but there are none. Maybe you could add some. If not, I will PM you with my e-mail. I am thinking since my dad (diseazd) has a lime, white and safari gold car then I need to go with a different color when I get mine. Orange or red perhaps. You need to come to Richmond/VA Beach next time we have the Z shows since your in VA And sorry to the OP for thread-jacking

Beautiful Z TRtom!!! Looks great with the rear spoiler and the panasports. Are those 15 or 16"s?

Unfortunately you can't get the majority of the bolts from Nissan anymore. Even if you do, I have found that 90% of them don't have the OEM yellow cad style of plating. I am pretty sure that Eiji orders his from Japan. He gets 80-90% yellow cad style and can order individual bolts I believe

It is my honest opinion that you get what you pay for when it comes to paints. Probably the second most important part of a car restoration. Prep/bodywork being first of course. Just my $.02

^ Exactly why I don't buy any cars newer than 93 Of course the fact that Nissan Titans are selling used for under $15k with 4x4 and under 50k miles may be reason enough to change my rules

I have to agree with Moonpup. I don't understand the need to start a new thread for 95% confidence level that the problem is fixed. If there is a still a clunk no matter how quiet or how often, the problem still persists. Car is looking good though

Amen Rev. Palmer

You know Xmas is coming up............ I know you want me to have a Z in addition to the 510

Whaaa??!!!:surprised I got to drive a Titan for the first time this weekend. I was just thinking how great that engine would be in a 510 or S30 :devious: If you could make it fit......

Ron, Are you referring to Pete Brock's orange 510? If so, a guy named Dave in MD from the 510 forum bought that car from Pete a few years ago. He has a great shot of the two of them in front of the car with Pete signing the title The car is immaculate!!