five&dime

^Good color but lots of pearl. It will definitely cost you a lot more for those colors. They are a bitch to spray too without getting striping. I love the color of my 510. I can't remember the name of the color. I will post the name when I get home. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2683786985/" title="IMG_9511 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3131/2683786985_3343b26206_b.jpg" width="1024" height="651" alt="IMG_9511" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2683788119/" title="IMG_9516 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3163/2683788119_d16d4be78f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9516" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2683785925/" title="IMG_9536 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/2683785925_8b8f4ea5b4_b.jpg" width="1024" height="611" alt="IMG_9536" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2684603022/" title="IMG_9553 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2235/2684603022_4c5ce5fcaa_b.jpg" width="1024" height="696" alt="IMG_9553" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2706921749/" title="IMG_9575 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3024/2706921749_ee1fa4244e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9575" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2706923183/" title="IMG_9601 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/2706923183_6597bfc878_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9601" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2706924417/" title="IMG_9603 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/2706924417_bc8079406c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9603" /></a>

Fastenal have nifty little tread pitch/size measuring tools. Kind of like a rectangle ruler about 10"x3-4". They will give them to you for free. Kind of like this one. It has the thread pitch on one side. You just lay the bolt on it until you find the pitch that matches http://automotivefasteners.thomasnet.com/ImgMedium/a0001468.jpg

For metal parts, I have them bead blasted. If they look good after that, I clear them with minwax satin urethane in a spray can. It holds up great to heat and grime and will not discolor. If the parts still have oxidation then I spray them with mag wheel paint in a nice silver followed by the minwax clear. Makes parts look like new

Yeah..... The wash primer is what I use on bare metal. The guy that has taught me a lot about painting has said you CAN use epoxy primer on bare metal but it may not last as long as if you use wash (etching primer) first. It will gaurantee you a good bond with all your follow up layers. I would say your fine either way. I just figure it's worth the insignificant increase in cost of materials to insure a good bond and a long lasting finish

Get yourself some fast evap pre-cleaner. It's used to clean surfaces before automotive painting. It's kind of like a mild paint thinner. This has always been my favorite product to remove overspray.

Well said^

Hmmmm. I have always been told to use PPG acid etching wash primer on bare metal. And then epoxy primer on that. That's how I did my 510 hood. I was told that it's not best practice to shoot epoxy primer on bare metal.

So your doing the work with spray cans? To be honest, the least of your worries will be feathering the existing paint and the new. You will be hard pressed to match the color using a spray can so the feathering isn't going to help you with blending. I have also never heard of anyone clearing over base coat. I would worry about the chemicals mixing and lifting or cracking/bubbling of the finish. Otherwise why not just do a base/clear??????? I recomend buffing single stage with a high speed buffer and some rubbing compound followed by a polishing compound and then hand wax. In regards to dry time in b/t coats. You really don't ever want to wait more than a full day to shoot follow up coats. If you wait more than a day you need to scuff the surface with a 3M pad. I also don't see any reason why you can't wetsand/sand in b/t coats of single stage. Just don't sand the final. I don't have much experience with single stage. But these rules should still apply

Great job on the sunroof elimination. My hat's off to you for doing that. I can't stand it when people ruin classic cars by adding the ghetto roof Well done!! Cheers

My dad and I both got the kit from Eiji. They were all OEM Nissan and yellow zinc plated. Couldn't be happier

I have seen lots of people online used two engine stands to the same thing.

A few pix I took Friday eve. The 510 is a blast to drive. I think we are going to take the Z and the 510 to the drag strip in a few weeks to see what they will run. I want to dyno my car as well. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2706921749/" title="IMG_9575 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3024/2706921749_ee1fa4244e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9575" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2706923183/" title="IMG_9601 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/2706923183_6597bfc878_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9601" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2706924417/" title="IMG_9603 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/2706924417_bc8079406c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9603" /></a>

My dad's 70 has the whiter lights. I assure you it is 100x's better than the standard dim bulbs. They look amazing. I just noticed a few weeks ago. I am not sure what bulbs are in there, but they are pure white and much brighter than the ones in his 72

You should see all the cars. We are going to do the dream garage style pic. Pops- 70, 71, 72 240z's, 90 300zx and 2001 Xterra Me- 87 pathfinder and 72 510. Should be a great shot with all of them

You mean in my signature? If so that is my 92 BMW E34 525 with an M52 swap (97-00 528 engine with Variable valve timing) My dad and I built that engine too. M3 cams, M3 flywheel and clutch. It's like new. I have been building that car for two years.

Update of the engine bay after full overhaul Before <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2502920004/" title="IMG_8777 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2398/2502920004_bb6eda2886_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_8777" /></a> After <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2685046961/" title="IMG_9566 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3094/2685046961_6e713be020_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9566" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2685046407/" title="IMG_9565 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3019/2685046407_ae587145a1_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9565" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2685047681/" title="IMG_9570 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3224/2685047681_ca5c1ae9a5_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9570" /></a>

Nopers Just got it in May. I am smitten

Here are a few pix my dad and I took downtown yesterday. It's a blast driving these two complimentary color 72's around. Lot's of double takes. Wait....... Is it 1972 again??? <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2683786985/" title="IMG_9511 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3131/2683786985_3343b26206_b.jpg" width="1024" height="651" alt="IMG_9511" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2683788119/" title="IMG_9516 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3163/2683788119_d16d4be78f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9516" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2683785925/" title="IMG_9536 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/2683785925_8b8f4ea5b4_b.jpg" width="1024" height="611" alt="IMG_9536" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2684603022/" title="IMG_9553 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2235/2684603022_4c5ce5fcaa_b.jpg" width="1024" height="696" alt="IMG_9553" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2683786441/" title="IMG_9495 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2363/2683786441_c9506d19df_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9495" /></a>

Spray it with degreaser and or brake cleaner. Then scuff it up with a scotch brite pad. Spray a 4-5 light coats of paint rather than fewer heavy coats

I assure you dynamat isn't twice as much just b/c of the name. It seems as if everyone is only concerned with cost. I don't cut corners with anything on my cars. If it's twice as much it just means it takes me twice as long to finish and save money. Same with tools. Buy the cheap stuff and it doesn't work as well and will most likely break. Just my $.02 from having to re-do many projects after going the "cheap" route back in the day

I wouldn't consider anything but dynamat. I have so many friends that have gone the cheap route. I assure you nothing compares to dynamat. Sometimes you really do get what you pay for. More often than not IMO.

I don't know if this helps being that it applies to 510's but there is a ton of useful subaru diff info in here. Hope it helps. http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm#Where%20does%20Subaru%20Fit%20in

Different manufacturers make the same colors different. Omni sucks for matching but PPG has been spot on in my experience. If you want to paint a hood or fender etc. you may want to take your car to your local auto paint supply dealer. They can use a UV light gun that will read your current paint. I did this with my 510. I believe this will account for fading. Ask the specialists to make sure though.

If you need to remove old paint, use aircraft stripper. Just don't get any on your skin, in your eyes or lungs. That stuff is brutal. They sell spray cans at Advance and NAPA. Just spray it on, let it sit for 20 minutes and then scrape the paint off with a putty knife like butter. It took me 30 minutes to strip my 510 hood to bare metal. Would have taken eons with sandpaper. Then you have to keep sanding with higher gritt to remove the scratch marks from the lower gritt.

I did my 510 just a few weeks ago. Dynamat rocks!!!! One bulk pack should do the whole floor and firewall. You can get the best deal on eBay. Some guy sells bulk packs shipped for $120. That is the best price you will ever see I assure you. Two will do the whole entire car for sure including doors and the roof. Just buy real dynamat not the imitation garbage.