five&dime

If the car is down to metal you use etching primer which bonds to the metal. I then use PPG epoxy primer which is much better at withstanding water and UV over many others. Then ready for base coat (lots of steps in b/t of course but you asked what type) I always buy PPG. I used to use Omni but the difference in quality is huge. You get what you pay for. IMO, my devilbess plus spray gun made the biggest improvement over the el cheapo HVLP guns. My clears come out glass smooth and hardly ever need to be wetsanded now I would think a gallon of sprayable (after mixed with hardeners, reducers, activators etc) would be enough for the primer with a little leftover. I know California is a different animal with automotive though so watch out for the EPA if this is a home job. I thought Cali was going to water based only.

I shipped a 510 hood through greyhound and it was only $45. It arrived safely. What I did was call the local dealers and connect to the body shop. The local Ford dealership was very nice and said they would hold a box when they got it. Sure enough they called the following week. It was perfect!!!!!

I was curious about the overspray as well. I think it is a reflection. Saw the same thing when I bought my 510 and it was just a reflection.

Are you talking about the alt bracket itself ( where the alt bolts to bracket) or the 3 threaded holes that go into the block?

I personally will pay more for a part to not buy from him on purpose. He absolutely rapes people on shipping. Not all of his NOS parts are NOS either. And just an expample. He charges $75 for a 510 trunk seal that Nissan sells for $45!!! When I tried to get a break on shipping for all the individual bolts for the L series, he still wanted to charge me over $100 (just for shipping)!!! I bought the entire L series bolt kit from Eiji (all REAL NISSAN CAD PLATED NUMBERED BOLTS) for $130 shipped. I don't know how Reddat can sleep at night. Give me a few beers and ask me what I really think

I would honestly find yourself some other wheels. Cheap isn't going to be an option

It better be delivered by John Madden if we have to wait for it

I would say 48-72 just to make sure it doesn't pull off if you ever remove that rubber again but I am overly careful with stuff like that.

Damn Carl!! You are like the human wikipedia You and Riley Curtis both. I never delete any of his e-mails. I see what you meant. I think we are all on the same page now. I am also only educated by the painters I know. I generally pick their brains as I work on various projects and slowly but surely increase my knowledge on the subject. Thanks for clarifying these definitions

Wow!!! Great story!!! You are extremely lucky Now let's see the tire skid marks Giggity

Yes, you need to use etching primer. I would take it down to metal and start again. It reallly sucks but if you have gone this far do it right. I also agree that with auto finishes, you get what you pay for. I hate it when people spend tons of money on their cars and skimp on the paint. Carl, I have never heard of an epoxy etching primer. I could be wrong as I am no expert but I have been doing paint work for 6 years now and have never seen it. I painted the hood of my 510 with PPG ethcing primer after taking it down to metal. I used very light coats and it dries translucent green. Then I sprayed the hood with PPG black epoxy primer which is also water proof.

The Z's belong to Diseazd - Guy Miller (my dad) I just take all the photos I got him some Z prints signed by Pete Brock for fathers day

And a few more. We will add a lot more soon <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3531572315/" title="IMG_1685 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2027/3531572315_87a67679ce_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1685" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3532385868/" title="IMG_1671 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2178/3532385868_9003022b0c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1671" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3532388492/" title="IMG_1680 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2359/3532388492_eedceafb9e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1680" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3531574257/" title="IMG_1688 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2317/3531574257_b6f30ae5d1_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1688" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3476895011/" title="IMG_0758 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3627/3476895011_faacff0d20_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_0758" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3476893367/" title="IMG_0756 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3315/3476893367_925ba4dc71_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_0756" /></a>

Some photos from yesterday <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3641358692/" title="IMG_2408 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3655/3641358692_9e77be0ea1_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_2408" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3641356752/" title="IMG_2404 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2474/3641356752_4093ef997e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_2404" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3640547027/" title="IMG_2402 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3606/3640547027_cf4ca5dd29_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_2402" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3640548495/" title="IMG_2406 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3640548495_bb6a5c0dac_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_2406" /></a>

That's it!!!!

No it was a Z specialty place like Bruce's Datsun or Billy's Datsuns or something like that.

I found it for him. We looked for a year. I cannot remember exactly where. I think it was a Datsun parts business in Oregon owned by a guy named Bruce if I recall correctly. I posted his info in a thread a while back. I will have to look for it. Unfortunately this is the only car forum I am on where your past posts only go back 4 pages. I have 50 pages of posts on the 510 forum

Eiji's bolt kits do have the original numbers stamped on them. These are true Nissan bolts. I believe he gets all his parts from Japan. And it's spelled Eiji Hosomi not Aiji. Pronounced Agee

I would imagine lawn furniture paint will hold up very well. At least it should since it's made for the elements.

Wow!!! Looks terrific. SEM has the best paint for interior pieces IMO. But it is a little expensive

This is great!!!! What an oustanding car even before all of this. Now she will be perfect!!

Read this write-up I did on the 510 forum. Here is the link for photos too. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=12088 I just received my futo fab spook spoiler (orange line version). I absolutely love it out of the box. I can't wait until this weekend to paint and install it. It is very rigid and the gelcoat is very nice. It will only take a very minor sanding to prep for paint. The brake ducts are very nice as well. This is the first spook available with the functional ducts. Futo Fab has the best customer service I have experienced in a long time. Originally I had ordered the middle priced FB version. I didn't realize that when David mentioned to me that it didn't have gelcoat, that it wouldn't be smooth. I just assumed the higher the price, the better the finish. It actually goes lighter weight while retaining rigidity as you increase in price (CF being the premium version). I went ahead and tried to sand it down a bit. Applied a few coats of PPG epoxy primer and then some satin black PPG single stage and installed it. It still just didn't look like I had hoped with the texture. I sent an e-mail to David Patten at Futo Fab and he called me within a day. He was completely understanding about my lack of knowledge about gelcoat vs. non and stated that he would add a disclaimer about that line on the site. He sent me a new orange line FB with gelcoat before I had even sent the old one back (after it was painted and mounted) He was extremely nice and wanted nothing more than a happy customer. He even refunded the difference!! This is the kind of customer service this country lacks for the most part. Terrific service paired with a great product will make him very successful as business owner in addition to a racer. Keep in mind the one I originally ordered was extremely light weight and rigid when mounted. It would be excellent for racing. It fit perfectly as we. When the ducts tucked under the lip of the front valence, the spoiler hangs by itself even before clamped. I just realized I could probably just mount and it would look like it was color matched

Just like that cool volvo prototype that had all the small triangle windows in the A pillar. So that you could see through it while also retaining a metal structure to tie in to the hood for strength. I remember reading all about how great it was. But it's not like they would ever do that on a production car.

I personally don't like it but could see how many would. It's uber cheap too..... They are just doing what everyone else is to try and keep an edge. Now if only they would produce this!!!!! http://s-e-design.com/sedesign_113.htm