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View Advert Brand New never installed Jim Wolf Technology parts I am doing a L28ET swap into my 71 240Z that is nearly complete and I originally decided to go all Jim Wolf Technology but ended up going full programable. My loss is your gain. All of these parts are brand new and never installed. Here is what I have. Ford Lighting Mass Airflow sensor. $199 New. Sell for $100 Here is what it is http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=466 Dropping Resistors - Free if you buy the MAF. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=286 Pre-programmed ECU up to 550HP. $595 New, Sell for $300. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=88 I also have a brand new Wilwood brake proportioning valve I will sell for $30 I have other L28ET parts and series 1 240Z parts I will be putting up like a early 240Z grill, stock l28ET camshaft, and more. Advertiser nsanow Date 10/06/2021 Price Category Parts for Sale

View Advert Datsun 240z parts I am finishing up my 240z project and have extra parts. Make me a fair offer. -240z rear hatch latch - 1974+ weather strip rubber for front quarter window both LH and RH. New - OEM brake master cylinder came off my running 71 240z - 3 pairs of new black poly end links for sway bars - steering column - brand new amber marker lights - OEM radiator cap in great condition - 3 row pulley off 82 280zx turbo - 240z emblem plastic and perfect Advertiser nsanow Date 01/04/2021 Price Category Parts for Sale

I am looking for a quality turbo oil pan. How good of shape is this one?

I need a new knock sensor for my turbo motor rebuild. Does anyone know of a good replacement? Nissan stopped making these. I read on another forum the Standard Motor KS109 is the same sensor but want to verify before I drop $180 on a part I am unsure of. Thanks for any help provided.

I did further investigation on ebay and the center fuse cover is from a 1973. Is there a good way to connect that into a 1971 harness or am I better off just not using the lights?

Long story short I had an electrical fire in the dash harness thanks to a Car Toys stereo install! DO NOT TAKE YOUR CAR THERE!! They only know plug and play installs. But I digress. The entire dash, seats, etc is pulled and I am having a professional restorer completely redo the car. I bought a new correct dash wiring harness from a great guy on this forum. The only problem is that I know my center console is not a 1971 version as I have just a single choke lever hole and it has an arm rest cover instlled. But since I have it all apart the choke cable switch is long enough to reach up to the front of the center console. The front panel of the center console that covers the fuse block has the rear defroster switch to the left, Fasten Seat Belts in the middle I think and then orange light to the right. I think I can find the plug from the harness for the rear defroster which did work before the fire. The fasten seat belts light and choke lights never worked and we cannot find any plug for these on the original harness and the choke cable plug doesn't seem to have the proper mate on the harness we can find. Any ideas on what years I am dealing with? We could not find where this all plugs into the new 1971 harness. Anyone have these parts in a good condition they would be willing to part with if needed?

For what it is worth I had my Borg Warner T5 tranny professionally rebuilt a few years ago and installed and BM short shifter. The total cost was $999. I would rebuild and then at least you know you have a very good tranny if you are going to keep the car for a while.

Thanks for the reply and Mac's in Portland is just a few blocks from where the car is being repaired for the electrical. Thanks as always for the feedback

I had an electrical fire in the dashboard and have completely gutted the car and dashboard with new wiring harness. Before I install I am looking at a 41 year old rusty heater core and wondering should I replace it or take it to a shop to have it refurbished? It doesn't leak but since it is exposed I am wondering if now is the time to have it either replaced or gone through. It looks like MSA may carry them but I am wondering if they are good or is better to have mine refurbed? How much refurbishing can a radiator show do?

I have the same issue. I need 3 of the 4 clips if anyone has them. The only one I have is the clip for the long cable that goes up by the blower motor. This is for a 12/70 build 240z.

So I started pulling the dash apart. I didn't need to get far to find the issue. I had a new stereo installed a couple weeks before the fire. I pulled the heater control panel and what did I see. I complete mess of wires that the installer just left, many uncapped and that is right where my spark and meltdown occurred is my guess. If it was the Ammeter wouldn't I find the meltdown right at that gauge? So now I get to see what the process for Car Toys is.

Looks Good. I just PM'd. I always want to take care of my fellow Z car friends so I am happy to pay a fair price.

I chased a problem like this in my 12/70 240z. I changed everything. Ended up being a bad brake booster. Didn't make sense since I literally had new everything from lines, calipers, drums, etc. That fixed the problem. My issue was no pressure and then brakes would grab at the last second before the pedal hit the floor.

Ammeter is the guess of the local auto electric specialist as the most common cause. He must be amazing because when I called him he said he was nearly a year out before he could look at my car! I can't imagine waiting a year for a rewire but if you good I guess.

Yes I still need it. But I am curious everyone's thought of the longevity of replacing the harness than a new rewire.

My VIN is HS30 18116 so that is a 12/70 build date from what is can tell. I haven't dug into it yet as I am just getting ready to tear in to it to see what I find. I upgraded the alternator a few years ago with the kit from Dave Irwin as well as it has his headlight relay and parking light relay. I had a local car stereo place install a new radio that I wonder if that did something. I also pulled the gauges, cleaned them and installed led light bulbs this winter. Since I am planning on keeping the car for a long time I want it done right. I can fix many things but the electrical is not one of them.

I have a 1971 240Z and earlier this summer I had a major electrical fire. Something happened and the main wiring harness in the dash melted. I have had this car for 6 years and plan to have it another 30 years so I am more interested in fixing it once and correctly. Are there any companies that will remake a wiring harness? I am also thinking if I am going to upgrade the wiring harness I might as well upgrade the gauges since this is more modified than original. Anyone have any ideas? There is an auto electrician here in Portland, Oregon but it is a minimum of $1,500 up to $3,000 depending on what he finds and I am thinking if I can get all new parts and then have someone install it even better. Lastly, there are harnesses for sale on ebay but I don't know if a 72 or 73 240z harness will work.

That is a good idea and I will have it checked out. I should have been more clear we did the line swap at the master not on the proportioning valve. I do know the proportioning valve so that is good. How would the reaction disk shorten the pushrod to engage the master? Thanks for your help!

Okay guys I need some help as I have been chasing this issue around for nearly a year!! I have a mid 1971 240Z. I have replaced the master cylinder to a 7/8 aftermarket, both front calipers, disks, rear wheel cylinders, drums, and put in stainless steel brake lines. When I originally put in the master back in June 2008 we adjusted out the pin in the brake booster and switched the brake lines on the proportioning valve since that is what I read needed to be done with the aftermarket master. I just took the car to a shop to have it professionally bled and worked over. It did still have a leak but now it is all tight and airless. The issue is that the brake pedal will go 2/3rd of the way down before the pin engages the master cylinder. The brakes then start to grab and I can stop but the pedal will go to the floor. This doesn't instill a lot of confidence in my high speed driving I would like to do. The mechanic said he thought the pin was adjusted all the way out but I am not convinced. Any ideas? Could this be a bad master cylinder? I am thinking since we can hear it and feel it engage maybe not. Is there a longer pin for the brake booster? Any help would be great! Thanks

Ok I finally got back in there this morning and have solved the issue. The first thing is there were still some air bubbles and we bled it more and more. We took apart the brake vacuum master but the rings were still intact. The issue was the pin needed to be lengthened. Once we lengthened the pin by 1/4 inch we have a taller pedal and better brakes. I still need to adjust the rear brakes since the e brake catches on the final notch so I know that will firm them up. The pedal still do not feel quite as firm as with the original master but I think that is because the new master is a generic aftermarket. Thanks for your help and I am glad to finally have the car back on the road without sweating about me cracking it up!

xray, We didn't look in the vacuum so that sounds like what may have happened. I won't have a chance to get into it until Friday or Saturday. But I thought of the booster was out I would have a really firm pedal and not such a soft, go to the floor pedal.

All, I have a 1971 240Z that has a mystery brake illness. Here is what has happend and what has been done. I bought this car a couple months ago. Had a Datsun mechanic go through it. I had a leaking brake master and front caliper with black break fluid. We have gone through 3 master's and I have new calipers in the front and I still do not have very good brake pedal pressure. When we are bleeding them on the lift the brake feels firm but as soon as I start the engine the pedal fades and nearly goes to the floor. I still have breaks but not near what they were before we changed the master. Here is what we have done: New Sanyco master. Yes the bleeder valves on the calipers are on the right position on top. Yes we have bled the master cylinder as well as the lines in the proper order with the rear passenger tire first. Yes we are nearly confident we have gotten all of the air out. We bled each tire extensively, waited a few minutes and bled them again until no air at all came out. The last time we switched the brake lines on the master since the original master had the larger reservoir which I think helped some but it still feels soft. I know I have to adjust the rear brakes since my e brake catches at the very top notch but the front brakes felt much stronger before we changed the original master. Our only other guess is changing out the brake proportioning valve since the new master is aftermarket and used on Z's up to 1977 and maybe isn't set up right? This valve is directly below the master and has s lines going in and 3 coming out I believe. Neither of us can figure out why my brakes are so soft. Any help would be awesome!

That sucks Arne! I just called a dealer and Motor Sports and neither of them have any and say they are all gone it is either fabrication or finding one from someone else. I am thinking fixing the spot that is broken can't be too hard right? I don't know where it is but I am thinking it must be close to the e-brake arm since is snapped when he pulled it.

I will most likely be buying a 71 240Z tomorrow that the seller broker the e-brake cable by over adjusting the rear brakes. I called a dealer to see if they had one and he said Nissan is longer available. Any idea on where I can locate one from a dealer? I know some said ebay but nothing there right now. Any help would be good. Thanks

Yes it is the one you are seeing on craigslist. It has the black racing strip down the middle and the black 240z on the bottom doors. The paint is obviously been done so I am hoping much of the rust has been addressed. The owner says the only rust he could find was a 2 inch patch on the rear hatch by the license plate. But reading everyone saying the Z's prone for rust has me a little concerned. It looks great to me but there has been a lot of recent engine work and it seems priced well but hasn't sold in 3 weeks. Do you know this car or guy?