austex

Hey guys, it's looking like I might have to be buying some new clutch components--maybe just the pressure plate, maybe everything, etc. Problem is, I don't think I have the stock clutch in my '74 260 (only had it a couple months) since it has a 5-speed. Any idea of which 5-speed would be in there? Or which clutch components would be compatible? I just figure if I go buy the stuff for a '74 260, that it might end up being the wrong part.

Nope, but I'll be doing it first thing tomorrow!

Yeah, I was kind of wondering that too. And by changed, I mean I siphoned out the old fluid that looked old and nasty and replaced it with new fluid. Like I said, I don't have much experience with hydraulic clutches...

Okay, the piston on the slave cylinder moves when the clutch pedal is depressed, but it doesn't seem like it travels very far. Thanks for the help so far, by the way.

Alright, I put it into first while the engine was off, and then I started it.....and it lurched forward like crazy and wouldn't start. Now the clutch pedal is really really easy to depress.

Yes. With the engine running and the car stationary, I can only shift into reverse. I've never had a car with a hydraulic clutch before. I'm assuming the thing on the underside of the clutch that looks like a piston that would pump the fluid into the clutch is just that? Maybe that needs replacing? Because I noticed that the clutch fluid is at the same exact level that it was 3 weeks ago when I changed it out.

Yes, I was forgot to add that I can shift when the engine's off. I recently topped off the clutch master cylinder, too. --------------- Is there supposed to be oil coming out of the shifter boot? If I push on it, oil comes out, and it was already covered in it before I did anything. I mean the rubber boot at the base of the stick. Not the other one of course.

So I went out to run some errands, backed out of the driveway, then noticed that I couldn't shift into 1st. I got it back in the driveway and it turns out I can't shift into anything other than reverse. Hoping it's something simple and not that I need a new clutch. What do y'all think?

Thanks guys! Yeah, I was wondering about the booster. I'll check it out.

Hey guys, just changed out the wheel cylinders in my 74 260. I bled the rear and front brakes and took it for a test drive and noticed that the brake light comes on when I apply fairly hard pressure on the brake pedal. For example, I was going about 20 and did a panic stop and it stopped just fine, but the brake light came on for a second. Just inertia/gravity affecting the fluid in the (20+ year-old) master cylinder? --------- Update: When I'm stopped and apply firm pressure (harder than I'd push to just keep it from rolling) the brake light comes on. Then, when the light goes off, the motor revs a couple hundred RPM, then goes back to normal.

The ones on there now don't appear to have the adjusters, which is why I thought I'd need to go with #1, but I reckon it'd be better with the adjustor, so I guess go with #2 for the leaky side and #3 for the other? (the Becks are on sale at RockAuto....just not the side I need. Might as well get it though) Thanks for the input! Just got back from Oz; lived there for a couple of years. Hope all's well there. --------- Yeah, I got that vibe about autopartswarehouse too.

My wheel cylinder (rear, driver's side) is leaking like a sieve. So of course I want to replace it. None of the stores here have them in stock at the moment, so I'm just going to order one myself. Before I do, though, just wanted to link y'all to pictures of the ones I might get just to make sure they're right. It says it's for my 74 260Z, but I just want to double check. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ260ZQQRaybestosQQWheel_CylinderQQ1974QQWC37305.html http://info.rockauto.com/RB/Detail2noTip.html?http://www.dormanproducts.com/images/items/hwrap1/p7250684.jpg The first one looks a bit different and doesn't have the adjuster (?) that the Dorman one has. Would either of them be safe to get? And here's the Beck/Arnley one: http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/Detail.html?0722520.jpg

So I replaced the horn relay, and still no horn. Works when I run juice through the wire going to the horn, so I guess that's a good sign. Maybe it's something at the steering wheel end? Here's some pics. I have everything (I'm assuming) but I'm wondering if anything's supposed to go in those other holes. Anything supposed to go in those other holes? Side view with green/black wire that goes to the relay, as far as I can tell. Does anything look wrong or out of place?

Haha, I managed to detach the panel with the relays on it, after much pain. Sure enough, H-B-S. It was the one at the very top, and the relay below it was covering up the screw holding in the horn relay. Good grief... Thanks for the help! Josh

Hey guys, just looking for the horn relay. I'm assuming I know the general location, so which one of these is it? The previous owner did some intersting wiring, so I'm in for some fun in the near future... Same location, just a different angle.

Yeah, that's true. Thanks!

Well, during the sales-pitch, he was telling me it has dual Webers "stamped with a 27". Though for the life of me I can't find anywhere on them that says Weber or 27. They do basically look like the 32/36 DGV 5A, just to give you an idea. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_36_DGV_p/22680.005.htm And here's a pic. I know, I know...not too good of a shot, but it's too late to go out and take a new one. Ha

Okay, cool. Thanks. What are some symptoms that the pressure is too high?

Hey everybody, I have a '74 260Z (the previous owner dropped in an L28-P79) and he put in these fuel pressure regulators: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PFFC05/11-2986 I was wondering if any of you have these and happen to know what a good setting on them is. They're set on 4.5 psi at the moment. Thanks!

Hey guys, I was wondering what y'all could tell me about the engine in my '74 260. It's stamped L28-368548 (P79). The site I checked out told me that it's a 280 engine (L28) from about 1981 (P79). Is that about right?

Hey everybody, I was wondering if any of you have experience in changing out the rear wheel cylinder yourselves. The place I got the quote from said it'd be 120 installed (driver's side), but I can find the part for 60. Is it worth the 60 bucks to get someone else to do it? It's a 1974 260.

Oh right, I guess telling you which one I have might be handy. It's a '74 260 that someone droppped a 280 (P79) motor in. Thanks for the replies so far!

Hey everybody, new Z-owner and first time poster here. One of the first questions I have is about the fuel pump. When I turn the key on, it starts making the usual fuel pump noise....but it doesn't stop. And if I do something like work the turn signals, it pulses in time with the flasher. Time for a new fuel pump, or is that normal? Thanks in advance. Bear with me, because I just bought her a week ago and I'm still learning about Zs.