Pilgrim

Yes, because the shield on the bottom has a single opening to reach the petcock. I suppose one could use a hole saw to make another opening, but that seems pretty crude.

View Advert 1979 280ZX 2+2 for sale This car has a personal history for me. My dad bought it in the early 1980s, drove it occasionally for about ten years, then sold it to one of my friends. My friend Jeff had it for 20+ years, but fought cancer for a couple of years and passed away this fall. Jeff and his wife Dot lived on about five acres out in the country and there is a lot of stuff she doesn't need to deal with. She has health problems and no ability to use the car, and it has been sitting for at least three years. I'm helping her sell it, and in this case maximizing the $ isn't the issue because she and I want it to find a home. She has a clear title. I just visited her, took a good look at the car and lots of photos - all attached. Please CONTACT ME for more information, as I probably know more about the car than she does. I am trying to give you good info and she really can't help much with that. The car is in eastern Washington about 5 miles east of Pullman in a farming area 80 miles south of Spokane. It will need to be trailered. The gas in it is old and I doubt it will start with the gas in it. A UHaul trailer will handle this car easily. You will need a come-along or other device to pull the ZX onto the trailer. Priced at $1500 which is very fair for a 127K mile ZX. I want it to have a new home soon. YES, you will have to come to eastern WA, load the car and trailer it yourself. It's 80 miles north to I-90, and you can get anywhere from there. Here's an evaluation of the condition: The car has been parked next to a tool shed. There are weeds growing around it in the photos. Visually, the car is bad because ALL the clear coat is peeling. It looks awful, but the car isn't actually rusty. Look at the photos and you'll see it's just clear coat shedding. It will need a repaint but there is no serious rust anywhere on it. I looked around the edges where Z-cars generally rust and there doesn't appear to be anything going on. This isn't unusual for eastern WA, which unlike western WA is low humidity and not a place where cars rust fast unless they're driven a lot in winter, which this car was not. Glass is all present and appears good. I didn't check the windshield for chips. The seats are in very good shape and have real sheepskin seat covers. (My dad bought them when he had it because they worked great for me.) The interior panels behind the seats have been taken off and all the trim is piled behind the seats under the hatch. I do not know why he removed the panels and trim. Might have had a project in mind. Speedometer shows 127K miles, which is accurate. Engine is complete and was running when parked. Transmission is a 5-speed manual. All wheels are original and correct. All tires appear to be holding air. The car was built in February of 1979 (see tag.) The car has factory air conditioning. This is a complete car that should start up with a clean tank of gas, an oil and filter change and a coolant flush. It needs a complete clean-up and a coat of paint, as well as fresh fluids from front to back. It should be a good driver and will last someone a long time. I'll add photos, but I have more. I moderate the forums at Zcar.com and I've owned and driven Z-cars since 1974. My contact email: apowell at colocougs dot org. Area code 970 phone 215 followed by 1560 Advertiser Pilgrim Date 11/26/2023 Price $1,500 Category Cars for Sale Year 1979 Model 280ZX 2+2 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HGS130-115497

I went to the one in Colorado. Not interested in traveling more than a few hours to do so.

I had a similar thought. Check to see what the process for getting a title is in your state.

A suggestion: when you fill the clutch circuit, use DOT5 silicone fluid. It works great and doesn't draw moisture so the slave cylinder won't get corroded. I learned this the hard way.

If the bolt wasn't resisting turning when it broke, take a dental pick or some other small tool with a sharp end and see if you can back/turn it out. Sometimes that works if the bolt snaps from stretching rather than breaking because it resisted turning.

Agreed. I've installed a number of clutches by leaving the pressure plate loose enough to feel around the edges and slide the disc into the center of the pressure plate, then tightening it. It has worked every time.

Just a note from the stock turbo side....my 1983 ZXT has essentially no turbo boost until about 3K RPM. It's actually a bit of a dog when revs are low. The lag is always present if you're under 3K RPM. Once you hit that engine speed, the boost kicks in and pegs the boost meter if you keep your foot down, and you definitely feel the difference. I wouldn't worry much about lack of boost under 3K RPM, at least if you're using a stock 280ZX turbo for comparison.

Find a good radiator shop; many of them can do the cleanout and re-coat the inside.

I think they're about as "performance" as anything you and I can find for our 15-inch wheels.

I have an '82 ZX Turbo with the 15" stock wheels. I'm looking at BFG TAs for my next set. They're available in 205/60/15.

I'm not sure that 50 years form now, we'll think today's plastics are well thought out either. But by then the PC boards in all the computer control stuff will have cracked and failed, so the cars won't be drivable anyway.

Except that when you're away from home, etc. that piece of paper isn't with you, not if it has 200+ passwords like mine does. And paper can be lost, which then means you're screwed unless you have a scanned copy of your PW document, which you probably won't make every time you add a PW to the list. I'm happy with a password-protected cloud-based PW program. I do heartily endorse having a consistent pattern of PW construction that uses some known basic alpha characters (possibly based on the website or software's name) plus numerical characters in some combination of prefix and suffix, and a special character. Most sites require at least eight characters, both alpha and numerical, including at least one capitalized alpha character, plus a special character. That means it's not too hard to establish a PW convention which makes it easier for you to be consistent in the scheme you use, but vary the characters in each PW.

Hopefully he has been able to block the originating addresses.

On the Zcar forum my rule is to immediately delete the post and ban anyone who joins and within hours posts "my friend Bob has one of those...". I have no mercy with those jerks. I agree: 1) Get pictures, preferably ones that you specifically requested. Everyone has a cell phone and can shoot pix for you. 2) Deal with someone who has been on the forum for a year or longer. 3) Get a phone number and talk with the seller. 4) If in doubt, use an online escrow service that holds payment until the part arrives and you approve payment. That means you and the seller have to agree, and you'll pay a fee to the escrow service. It's worth it on expensive parts. If the seller won't agree, forget them.