Pilgrim

If it fires when you spray starting fluid in, then ignition is working. Fuel is the problem. Don't forget the fuel filter, but I'd go after the pump. They are easily loud enough to hear when they're working. And I'd definitely try to get the old gas out and new gas in before I started it.

That makes sense...and confirms which circuit is involved. Not that I didn't already pretty well know that.

There's good news...not necessarily a permanent fix, but at least a temporary positive note. Last week I dug into the ZX and checked wiring, and darned if I didn't find a blown fuse. It was the 20A fuse on the bottom right corner of the fusebox; I didn't check the label on the slot, but I replaced the fuse and my blower fan and AC compressor both work!! I drove it around town and on the highway for more than 1/2 hour and everything continued to work. Do I think the problem is solved? Not really. I think I fixed a symptom, but there's a reason the fuse blew - and that reason is the real cause. However, I'll live with this for the time being. I suspect the test will come when the weather warms up, as the original problem occurred when days were hot. It's possible that when I replaced the wiring harness for the blower fan and AC control unit that I blew the fuse - and if so, I'll be a happy guy. But after six months of down time, pulling the dash and replacing wiring and vacuum hoses, I'm damn glad to have it driveable again!!

So, after two months of sitting while I got around to the vacuum hoses, I have replaced the fan speed rheostat and AC engagement switch that are inside the climate control panel. They come as a unit on a small harness. Fired it up, drove it, and no fan. Nothing. No AC engagement either, which is increasingly odd because when this started, the AC compressor would engage even when the fan wasn't running. Guess I'll go back through the electrical diagram to see if I can figure out where the signal is getting dropped. Before installing the dash, I checked the little AC engagement switch (a small push-button contacted by the AC lever; it mounts on the back end of the climate control mechanism) and it definitely is good. At least the AC compressor ought to be engaging. I'm stumped for the moment, but when I find the problem it will most likely be something very basic and simple.

Hey group - I have a 1983 280ZX Turbo that has the tan velour interior with the ribbed fabric on the seats. I'm due for new seat covers but the ribbed velour material is no longer available and I don't like the look of the solid velour covers. I have the low-backs with the separate headrests. I'm thinking about changing the seats to leather, but I'm wondering: in the cars with factory leather, is there any leather OTHER than that on the seats? If the seats are the only part that's different, then I can change to a more authentic seat material by ordering leather seat covers. So - for any of you that have the leather seats - what are the differences in the interior other than the seat COVERS? Thanks....

Just for your info - the car is down for now...I pulled the dash and replaced the harness with the rotary fan switch and the micro-switch that toggles the AC on and off. I'm replacing the vacuum lines as well, and having trouble finding vacuum hose that's the right outside diameter. It has to fit into some vacuum connections where exterior size is an issue.

I'm in the process of replacing all the vacuum lines under the dash on my 1983 280 ZXT, and I can't find vacuum hose with an exterior dimension matching the original. You wouldn't think this would matter, but some of the vacuum fittings are recessed and have a "ring" around them into which the hose must fit. The oversize OD hose doesn't go - I've had to cut off sections of the old hose and use a fitting to attach them to the new hose for the last couple of inches. On the engine side, I still have original clamp fittings which won't go over the slightly larger OD hose, either. If you have replaced the hoses under the dash - what did you do? Did you just force the replacement hose on (a spray of silicone does help)? Or did you find matching vacuum hose somewhere, like a Nissan or other Japanese car dealer? PM messages would be appreciated in addition to responses in the forum.

That's a good link. I agree with the OP that the way to go is restore the wiring to stock, then make changes as needed. It can be done.

Latest indication is that it's the rotary fan speed switch on the AC/Climate control panel. Rats. Well, I had to pull the dash to replace all the vacuum lines anyway.

Thought I had traced it to the blower relay that mounts on the underside of the blower housing. By replacing it, I determined that it's unfortunately not the problem. Will go through the FSM check procedure this weekend - I have the dash vent pulled to get at the connector behind it - and see what I learn.

I have manual air, not auto air.

It's not the amplifier - that was the first candidate. Now checking the blower relay that mounts next to the amplifier. The FSM says it's most likely culprit.

You don't have to replace the alternator. You can remove it, take it to a shop that rebuilds starters and alternators and they can rebuild it.

The car: 1983 280ZX Turbo. When I run the vent/AC blower fan for a few minutes, the fan dies. This happens whether or not the AC is on. If the AC is on, the compressor is still engaged but the fan blowing the air inside just dies. No fuses blow, but the car has to sit for an hour or more before the blower will work again. Since no fuses are blowing, this has the appearance of a component that's heating up and failing, then working after it cools off. But which component? Or is my reasoning faulty? Ideas...?

So - I changed my mind. I want to prove to myself that I DO have time to work on the Fiat, which needs more than the ZX. I'm putting a car cover over the ZX and parking it for a while - probably till next spring. I'm going to work on the Fiat and prove that I can allocate time to do it. If I can't, then I'll decide whether to sell one or both. But I don't want to sell the ZX and then discover that I'm just not willing to make time for this. That's a different issue. If nothing else, I'm going to retire in 5-8 years, and I could hang onto it till then.

I drove it while in college, graduated in 1973 and it wasn't a car I could use for business, so I left it in storage at my parents' place (they had a big storage building.) What with my moving around and never having storage room, it stayed there for 24 years until 1997 when they moved into a smaller home - I trailered it from Washington state to Texas, later from Texas to Colorado, and I've had it taking up one side of the garage since 1997. It's time to sell it or drive it, and I don't want to sell it - at least not partially disassembled. I've recently had the gas tank cleaned and patched, rebuilt the brakes and got it running (that carb was nasty). I also have good tires on it. The body is ready for paint, and I'm on the track of a new windshield. I still have work to do on it, but I've not had the time to get to it. At this point I'd rather sell the Datsun than the Fiat. Yes, I know the Fiat isn't a bulletproof car, but the 1958 series is so simple to work on that it's a joke. Basic car, 64 HP and 4.60 rear end gears - actually decently quick (for its day) up to 50, top end at 5200 RPM about 73-75 MPH. And more fun than anything to drive in town. This goes back to the day when cars had limited capabilities, so you could drive them hard in town and seldom break a traffic law!

We recently bought a 2007 Nissan Murano and it's a really fun crossover, but it doesn't scratch the sports car itch very well.

Interesting. I'm sitting here hurting because of this decision, but I know I need to do it. I've been driving Datsun L6 Z-cars since 1974.

Check my ad in the classifieds. It's not in Sacramento but a one-way ticket to Denver is cheap, and you can drive the car back to Sacramento with no problems. The car is the 280ZX Turbo shown in my avatar.

I hate to do it, but I've listed my 1983 280ZX Turbo in the classifieds. I bought that car in Texas in 1990, and I've taken great care of it ever since. When is it time to turn loose of a car you've owned for 20 years? It's tough. I have that ZX and a 1958 Fiat Spyder roadster...and I don't need two 2-seat sports cars. The Fiat was my 1968 high school graduation present, and it has been in storage since 1973. I keep wanting to finish it - but it seems like every weekend, I have to do something to the ZX or one of our other cars. Here's a Fiat promo photo of my Spyder: Now both daughters have moved out, but the ZX still takes most of my available time. The Fiat has been taking up my side of the garage for 12 years, waiting for me to put in the 10 to 20 hours that would finish it....and I'm halfway done. And to tell the truth, I'm tired of keeping up with the ZX. It runs great and it's fun to drive, I know every detail of it, but the vacuum hoses need replaced - and the washer pump isn't working - and there's a slow current drain I've been trying to find. None of these matter a lot or are that hard to fix, but I'm tired of having a ZX that's 98% perfect but still needs tweaks. :disappoin So although I hate to do it and it hurts, I'm selling the ZX so that I can get that Fiat back on the road after nearly 40 years. It's not a road car (top speed is about 75), but it's a fun in-town car. What about you? Are you close to calling "time out" on one of your treasured cars?

I'm pretty sure that's not a factory part. I've owned my '83 ZXT since 1990 and never seen anything like it under the hood.

Everything the OP needs to know is in that post. Have the test done...and if it holds pressure, I agree that you have no problem.

No kiddin' - that sensor just tracks the temp of the metal it's screwed into? No coolant in the area? That would be a weight off my mind!

While changing the head temp sensor in my '83 280ZXT, I noticed that when removing it (under #5 spark plug on the passenger side) I didn't get a flow of coolant. I know this sensor is supposed to be immersed in coolant, so I may have some kind of blockage keeping coolant from flowing freely into that area. Not good. My thought is to pull the sensor again, remove the radiator cap and try shooting some compressed are into the mounting hole. That hole is about 1/2" in diameter, so I should be able to get a good fit for an air nozzle with tape around the tip. I have a variable pressure valve for my air compressor so I can limit the pressure to perhaps 30 PSI, which is roughly 2X the pressure the cap holds. I don't think it would be a good idea to shoot 80-100 PSI in there. I want to eliminate any blockage, but I really would prefer to avoid pulling the head. Any helpful thoughts about this idea?

I just learned something about a starter problem that I haven't seen remarked about in any forum - and I did a quick search here to check. The problem I had was that turning the key to the start position in my 1983 280ZX didn't always engage the starter. Once in every 5 or 10 times, I heard a relay click but the starter would NOT engage - even turning the key in and out of the start position multiple times. I changed the ignition switch - and no luck. I checked all contacts and no luck. I pulled the starter twice (only 3 years since rebuilt) and took it to the shop which rebuilt it for a check-out. It engaged every time they tested it. THEN I got a chance to talk with the shop owner. He said that on some Datsuns, he had seen the wire to the starter solenoid go bad. This is the small wire that sends power to spade-bit connector on the solenoid on top of the starter. He suggested that I check that wire - or hook up a jumper wire to it and if the car didn't start, touch the jumper wire to the batter positive terminal. The jumper works every time! So now I know the problem is a faulty wire to the solenoid - the wire which slides onto the spade tab for the solenoid. What I've done until we get into good weather is to install a spade bit with two connectors on the solenoid tab. One connector goes to the wire from the car - the other connector has a jumper wire which I've left up high on the inner fender, with the end insulated. If the starter doesn't engage with the key, I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL with the parking brake engaged, pop the hood, hop out and touch the end of the jumper to the positive battery terminal. Starts EVERY time! I don't know how much of a pain it's going to be to replace the original wire, but at least this way the car doesn't leave me stranded. I've push-started it entirely too many times over the last couple of years while diagnosing this.