fixitman

I appreciate everyones responses, wise consul and willingness to share their experiences. After all the bits are added, I'll ask the shop to readjust the suspension again. For now, the shop is going to powder coat the orignal springs and reinstall them. I'll let you know what happens to the ride height in a week or two. They tell me the rear springs are much stiffer than the originals. I'm wondering if Nissan actually shipped Stage 2 springs for the rear. It wouldn't be the first time Nissan shipped the wrong part with the correct part number. Thanks again, Fixitman

The ride height dimensions noted in the beginning of this post were supplied by two Classic Z Car members with stock suspensions on early 260Z's, not 240's. The suspension was installed properly. But as a check, all suspension pivots were loosened and re-torqued with the car on grade yesterday. To obtain the proper rear ride height, it took two men standing on the rear bumper shocks. One seat, carpet, a few plastic panels and the spare tire have to be added yet. But these items will not add 350-400 lbs. to the car. Bilsteins are gas pressured shocks. According to one of Carl Beck's post, they work well on one of his 240's. Due to the ride height, the car cannot be driven because the sway bar pivots up and hits the drive shaft yoke. The shop is going to install the original springs and see if that makes a difference. What else can account for a rear ride height 2.5" over spec? Fixitman

The attached photo shows the difference in spring height between a rear Euro Stage 1 spring and the stock factory springs. The Euro spring has 9 coils versus 11 for the stock spring. Unless there's a good reason to use the Euro springs and a way of reducing the ride height at the same time, I'm thinking of powdercoating the original springs and reinstalling them. There is a 3/8" - 1/2" height difference (about a coil wire diameter) between the front and rear stock springs. Does anyone know which end of the car gets the shorter and taller springs? Thanks, Fixitman

Based on the attached photos, does the ARB appear to be installed correctly? Thanks, Fixitman

I haven't heard the system in person yet. But I'm told everytime the mechanics come back from a test drive, they're wearing a big smile. They say the engine has good torque and throttle response. If you are considering a 2 1/2" dia. S.S. system, I have most of the components for sale in the classified section. I can give you the contact info for the company that bend the "S" pipe for me. It's the same fabricator that MSA uses in Anaheim, CA to fab their systems. If you are using a factory exhaust manifold or a MSA header system, they can probably bend all the required pipes from the pipe sections I have for sale. I'll give you a good price on all of these Borla components. Regards, Fixitman

While visiting the shop yesterday, I took the attached photos of the completed system. Fixitman

There are regular contributors to the Classic Zcar Club forums who have experience with split systems. I suggest doing a search for past discussions on this topic. Good luck and show us a few photos when completed. Fixitman

Maybe you would like to consider a stainless steel system. The exhaust photos in my members gallery show a custom fabricated 2.25" dia. Borla-based system with flanged connections for the muffler and resonator. If you want a 2.5" dia. system, I have Borla components for sale in the classified section. Fixitman

The attached photo shows Bridgestone's RE-960AS on a 15" x 7" wheel. The Tire Rack felt this was the best tire available in the size and catagory. In a few months I'll find out how good they are. Regards, Fixitman

You might consider something in between a performance build and stock. Let's call it a period correct restoration. During the production years, many factory and aftermarket parts were available to personalize and improve the handling and performance of any 240Z to 280Z. A quality period correct restoration may give your friend the best of both approaches and a higher value car. Good luck with the project. Fixitman

I need the advise of the forum's suspension experts to solve a driveshaft yoke/sway bar interference problem and high rear ride height problem. Perhaps the issues are interconnected. Background info follows. Vehicle: Early '74 260Z Sway Bars: Quickor, 1 1/8" front, 7/8" rear Struts: Bilstein (early '80's series) Springs: Stage 1 Euro, 54010-N3500 front, 55020-N3501 rear Differential: R180 LSD Per two forum members, stock ride height is 26 1/2" - 26 5/8" front and 25 5/8" - 25 3/4" rear, as measured from road to wheel well side of fender arch. The shop measured 26 7/8" front and 28 3/8" rear on my car. A few bits, like bumpers, spare tire and most of the interior plus a full tank of gas will add a little more weight and perhaps lower the ride height a little. If I remember correctly, two springs came in without part numbers but I was told the color coding was correct. Is there anyway of knowing if the springs are correct for this car? Free length, number of coils, wire diameter? Is it possible that the sway bar is installed upside down? I would appreciate your input. Thanks, Fixitman

Thank you. Your explanation was very informative. This thread was the result of another I posted about interference between the rear swaybar and drive shaft. According to the shop, the driveshaft flange is hitting the sway bar. Any thoughts on why this problem is occuring? Thanks, Fixitman

What is the purpose of the damper plate mounted under the differential case mounting front member? Is it needed? Thanks, Fixitman

Cibie Z Beams look similar to or the same as the Cibie headlights in the attachment. If you look closely at the 260Z, you can see the lens pattern in the car. I'm using Z Beams with Philips X-Treme H4 bulbs, 60/55 watt, purchased from www.autolamps.com in England. By the way, if anyone needs 100/55 H4 bulbs, I have three that need a good home. Fixitman

If I understand your comments correctly, the rear swaybar might be positioned too high for some reason. Fixitman

The restoration show reports that the driveshaft yoke is contacting the swaybar and making nasty noises. Could the problem be related to the drive shaft alignment caused by a high ride height (Euro springs plus Bilsteins)? What is the purpose of the rear mounting damper plate? Is it needed? Thanks, Fixitman

For comparative purposes, I am interested in obtaining the ride height of early 260Z's. To keep the measurements simple and consistant, please measure the height from the road to the wheel well side of the front and rear fender wheel arch. Please note any suspension modifications and wheel/tire size. Thanks, Fixitman