fixitman

Are you referring to the mounting flanges for the radiator shroud? Fixitman

The attached photos show a MSA air dam on an early 260Z. Fixitman

Please provide the engine specs. Thanks, Fixitman

If you are interested in a not so obvious stainless steel system, see my posts at the following two links. This system was custom made using Borla components by a eastern PA restoration shop. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31263&highlight=stainless+steel http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32026&highlight=msa+exhaust 2 1/2" exhaust systems with turbo mufflers were commonly installed on Z cars in the 70's. I have all the components for a 2 1/2" stainless steel Borla system for sale. If you are interested, see the classifieds or send me a PM. I'm located in your area. Fixitman

Sound doesn't know inlet from outlet. Turbo mufflers are basicly a straight thru angled design. The attenuation and pressure loss are the same either way it could be installed. Fixitman

The other Borla muffler to consider is 40653. This is the Borla muffler that MSA offers. I had purchased the 2.25" version of this one. Though it fit, the shop found it a little tight and it extended down farther below the fender. If you are interested in this one, I have a new, earlier Borla, but practically identical, version of this muffler with polished tip and stainless steel saddle clamps for sale at a very reasonable price. When I started my project in the 80's, I was going to use a 2.5" system again but decided to downsize to 2.25". Fixitman Borla-Muffler40652.pdf

You might consider Borla muffler no. 40659. I have the 2.25" diameter model on my car. The body dimensions are identical for the 2.5" diameter model. As shown in the attached photos, it does not hang very far below the fender. This muffler might be a little longer than the MSA muffler but the "S" pipe can probably be trimmed as needed. I suggest doing a web search for the best price. Summit Racing had all the parts I needed in stock and would price match. Good luck. Fixitman Borla-Muffler40658.pdf DatsunZ-BorlaMuffler.pdf

After checking the the springs against the shop manual, the shop had to reverse them. As a result, the front bumper is now only 0.60" higher than factory spec; the rear bumper is 0.90" higher than spec. Considering that a little more weight from a few more bits have to be added, I think the ride height will be fine in the end. I also spoke to Bilstein in CA this morning. They don't have any information on early Z applications anymore, not even the part numbers. But they did say that Bilsteins have always been low pressure gas shocks. Consequently, Bilsteins should not raise the ride height. The attached photo was taken after the springs were reversed today. Damn, it looks good, if I do say so myself. Fixitman

Carl, Attached are the coil spring tables from the early 260Z FSM. The tables show both front springs to be identical. For a non-A/C car like mine, the free length and installed height is 14.9" and 8.7", respectively. Both rears are also identical with a free length and installed height of 15.4 and 8.7", respectively. I have to confirm the shop installed the springs in the correct locations. The part numbers on the Nissan receipt indicate that the springs are Euro Stage 1. Possibly, I could have a spring rate test done sometime to determine if they are actually Stage 1 or 2. As for the Bilsteins, if the part numbers are P30061 and P30062, they were purchased in March 1984. I don't have an old Bilstein catalog to confirm the numbers. Does this date make the shocks the low pressure gas type? Do you have an old Bilstein Catalog to confirm the part numbers? According to the FSM, the rear is at the correct ride height but the front is still high by 1.4". The weight of one seat, carpet and all interior panels has yet to be added but I don't expect this additional weight to change the front ride height very much. Fixitman SpringData-FSM.pdf

Thanks, FilipeA. Your Z looks pretty good. It certainly has a lower ride height than mine did with Euro springs. I'm going to wait until the interior is completed before revisiting the suspension. I have read speculation on Classic Zcar Club threads that the spring perch is at a different location on the Euro cars. If there is a location difference, it would account the the ride height problems on USA Z's. Could you measure the distance from the spring perch to the base of the strut tube? Perhaps provide a sketch of exactly where you took the measurements. We would appreciate your efforts. Regards, Fixitman

The bumper height specs came from page BF-9 in the 260Z FSM. See attached page. I'll record the current measurements the next time I visit the shop. But the measurements might be more meaningful once the interior is completed. I suspect that the front is higher than spec due to the Bilsteins. Dave, these sway bar sizes (1 1/8" front and 7/8" rear) were the only sizes offered by Quickor for an early '74 to '78 Z in the early 80's. Back then, Quickor had a good reputation. So, I followed their advise. Fixitman Datsun 260Z-Ride Height.pdf

In the last two weeks, the Euro Stage 1 springs were removed and the original springs were powder coated and installed. The top of front bumper height is now 20.3" front vs. factory spec of 18.9", +1.4". The top of rear bumper height is now 20.0 vs. factory spec of 20.3, -0.3". These measurements were taken with a full tank of gas and the spare tire installed. This is a big improvement over the ride height with the Euro Stage 1 springs. Once the interior is added, perhaps the front will come down a little. The interference problem between the rear sway bar and the drive shaft yoke was resolved by reducing the ride height and lengthing the link spacer by 3/4". Here's how she stands as of today. On to the interior... Fixitman

Thanks for the info. I will keep the info for future reference. Fixitman

The link spacers worked. The interference is gone. Thanks to all for your input and help. Fixitman

Please email the non-vented pad drawing to dmwolon@comcast.net. It will come in handy. Thanks for offering. Fixitman

I was just curious as to their origin. The caliper shown in the first post is on an early 260Z that is nearing the completion of a 25 year restoration process. I purchased the caliper set from Datsun Comp in the 80's. But I didn't know enough at the time to purchase the installation kit. The shop had hydralic lines with banjo fittings made up to complete the plumbing. The backing plates were trimmed to fit around the calipers. I was thinking of purchasing extra seals and pads for future use. Are they still available> Thanks for the hsitory lesson. Fixitman

Were these calipers used on any stock Nissan/Datsun vehicle or just as a Z upgrade? Fixitman

Does anyone know the source/history of the 4-piston calipers, part nos. 41000-E7201 & 41010-E7201, offered in the old Datsun Competition catalogs? Thanks, Fixitman

Geezer, perhaps these photos will provide a clearer view of the sway bar installation. Since the arms bend up at the links, just like the factory bar, I think it is installed correctly. Do you agree? Fixitman

Thanks, Geezer. I'll let you know if I need measurements of the stock bar. I wonder what happened to my factory bar. So, which way is the bar oriented in your photo? I might know a little more tomorrow. Today, the shop was going to add a 3/4" spacer to the links. They think that will provide enough rotational clearance. As I mentioned earlier, the sway bars are by Quickor but the links and bushings have been replaced with Suspension Techniques' kits. Much to my surprise, the Quickor polyurethane bushings cracked after sitting around for 25 years. Suspension Techinques is the only company I could find with replacement components to fit the Quickor bar diameters. ST's link spacer might be shorter than the Quickor pieces but the bolts are longer than needed for STs standard spacer. On the positive side, the tech had the car out for a 10 mile test drive yesterday. He said it ran strong, no nasty resonance in the exhaust, good throttle response and it handled well. I see an interior being installed soon. Fixitman

Thanks for your help. One problem solved. As shown on in the photos of a previous post, the dampener needs to be rotated 180 degrees. Carl, when I get the Euro Stage 1 springs back, I'll provide photos and dimensions for the data base. You are correct, the springs were refinished with polyurethane paint, covering the paint codes. But the shop was suppose to tag fronts from rears. So, now the question is "Is the differential mount correct and installed correctly"? Regards, Fixitman

The bar is by Quickor, 7/8" dia. What rubber part are you referring to? Do you mean the stacked metal plates of the damper? The attached photo shows the sway bar from the other side. Thanks, Fixitman

But there is still the problem of the driveshaft/yoke interference with suspension movement. I still think this car wanted to rest in pieces! Fixitman

I'm not sure I understand your comment. Depending on which way it's rotating, the swaybar is either hitting the drive shaft yoke or the differential damper as the rear suspension travels up or down. I was wondering if the damper should/could be rotated 180 degrees, so that the vertical section is behind the differential cross member. The shop replaced the Euro Stage 1 springs with the original factory springs this week. The rear ride height came down to factory specs with a full tank of gas. So ride height isn't an issue now. Your thoughts? Fixitman

Does any one have a photo which shows an installed differential damper? The shop tells me the rear sway bar is hitting it as it rotates. I want to make sure the damper, as shown in this photo, is properly installed . Thanks, Fixitman