Zedyone_kenobi

yup, it is the 630 dollar core, plus the intake and balance tube polishing. I also picked up a new PVC valve and PVC hose to the crankcase. OH and got a unisyn while I was at it. Cannot wait to get the PB blaster on the bolts and get that intake/exhaust off.

I had a spare intake and carbs I used as a core. My current carbs which work pretty good are still on the car. I will take some vacuum readings and use my uni-syn on it before I remove them to see what difference these carbs make. Also, would like to know how off sync my current set of carbs are. Actually, I think they are pretty good. But to have a working baseline is always good to have.

SU's are in! My Gosh they are beautiful... cannot wait to watch the SU's video and put them on.

congrats man! Pics would be great!

Thanks for taking the time to answer some very important questions...But your answers make me curious? You changed the head gasket and piston rings with no manual or instructions? I am concerned. Where did you get your rings, how did you get them the correct size, what did you torque everything down to without a manual to tell you proper torque specs. Did you have the cylinders honed before putting the pistons back in? For a guy with no wrench experience, you have tackled some hugely technical jobs.

its a clean Z, looks like the dealer added every possible extra. Still 73, with the flat top carbs, not sure. I think mid teens is pretty realistic. BJ is a very muscle car crowd. But I could be completely wrong.

Lets take a moment to pause here. Your walking around gather good bits of knowledge but you have no idea how to use them. People are being generous with advice, but you have to tell us what the car is going to be used for. That, your budget, and your skills at doing detailed assembly/disassembly. Right now you are a parts suppliers dream. A person with no direction who whats to buy lots of parts with the dream of having a fast Z. You have to be realistic with your goals, your wallet, and your expectations. You need to ask yourself, how long can this car sit. Is it my daily driver, or can it remain non operational for months. We need answers to these questions.

All music to my ears. I was thinking I would send a large order of parts to be powercoated and cad plated, while I am there.

Carbs shipped today. Looking forward to this VERY much.

Where would one source this uber Graphite gasket. I know the exact ones your talking about. Would Felpro make one.

yup, I sent the intake and balance tube off to be polished and smoothed as well. THe whole kit and kaboodle is getting the treatment.

Well I am over the top excited to be getting a set of 4 screw SU's done by Ztherapy! I kept my current set of carbs on the car as to have a good set to baseline all my readings, then I can get the new SU's on start tuning. I know the quality of the products put out by ZT, I am looking forward to getting them on, but any advice and things I should do first. Also any helpful advice on pitfalls in removing the intake? Thanks! Signed one excited Z car owner.

Sounds like you should go with a dedicated mechanical advance dizzy. You can get it curved to suite your needs.

Great wheels/tires , what are you running?

That is stunning, and just makes me want to do my baseboards and paint even more!!!!

It is an honest 2-3 day job. 3 for sure if you use the clear coat. Of course I waited a bit longer than I had to between coats, but not much longer. I put my coating on my garage floor before I even moved in. The house was new, so I had virgin concrete. The kit comes with a muratic Acid etch to rid yourself of the oily mess. You just keep repeating that until when you spray water on the stain it does not bubble. The instructions are very easy and I love the results. I am not sure you could half the job. The epoxies are all two parters, and the cans are sized to be poured together. You would have to eyeball the mixes and hope you get them the same. You may want to call UCoatIt and ask. I would advice doing it all at once if possible. I know that may be impossible.

I would have to measure. What you do is calculate how many square feet you have and go to the UCoatIt website. You input your square feet and they calculate how much product you need exactly, and size your order accordingly. And I can vouch they hit it VERY close, and give you a tad extra so you can give it a good thick coat. I forget how many square feet I input. But I have a big 3 car garage.

You bring up a good point, thats why I want to use vinyl. Its easy to get off if I have to. But I do not see myself moving anytime soon. Just bought the darn house!!!

Sure.. Its a 3 car garage, 2 wide and one side is 2 deep. I think the Ucoatit kit I got had the prep, base coat, and I got the gloss coat. I think the total was a tad over 500 bucks. But the results are wonderful. I would recommend spending the time and money on doing an epoxy coat on your floor rather than paint. Clean up is amazingly easy. Not a drop of anything gets through the floor covering. Its fantastic. It also feels softer on your feet than concrete. Which is a great bonus when your on your back for a while.

I am very proud of my UCOATIT garage floor...and my garage in general. But I would like to take it up a notch to make it more showroom and give it that finished look. What I am wanting to do is put a large Datsun or 240Z decal on the floor in vinyl. Where can I get an accurate graphic of one or both of these that I can get blow up to about 2 ft x 4 ft

My gosh those look beautiful! Love the dark color. I may have to sell my panasports.

NOpe, I have 4 years to get ready...Judging by the amount of money and time I can throw at this, I think it will take me 4 years to save the coin to do this.

Thats actually a great idea. If I plan to race, it may be a better solution than hacking up my car. But if I only want to do the touring, then I would most definitely take my Z up there!

Mr Mortensen your correct. The neck down is a very high stress riser. When the bolt is torqued, the necked down portion is already preloaded in tension. When the Tension rod moves up and down, it compresses the bushing with the large washer. The washer acts against the hard rubber and I could see how that could produce a cantilever and put the beam in bending. Sounds like a first year machine design problem... now I am getting excited!

I read that, and I am not too worried about it. For ever report that they snapped, there were just as many that said they had been running them for years. I think that the extra load probably had something to do with it, but I would wager that a TC rod would have to be already flawed to break. A minimum strength for steel I found was 1018 annealed steel, with a yield strength of 32000 psi (just looking at the first reference I had). If the rod would fail due to tension we can use this number. Figure the rod is 3/4" round along its length, it would take around 24000 lbs. I would need to see where they are failing and what the grain structure at the crack initiation site looks like to see the mode of failure. If it failed at the neck down to the threads or near the bolt holes that hold it to the control arm, that would mean a totally different loading environment and I would need to look at that differently. Also the amount of suspension travel would heavily influence the result as well, as it would indicate the size of the fully reversing load (fatigue perhaps). It would also be nice to know what it was actually made of, its heat treat specification etc. I think the failures are real, but I think the super hard bushings aggravated an existing condition that led to these failures, rather than them being the root cause.