Zedyone_kenobi

This looks just awesome! I may have a weekend project soon.

must have more pics of your car!

Thanks so very much.. I am in fact in love with those wheels in that vid! Are those Konigs?

Good question.. depending on how much you want to pay, you can get a nice european curved dizzy from MSA for a reasonable price.

I can respect that beandip! We all like different ice cream

Dang, I just updated that.. How about I wait until I get something else done...Not sure what that would be though?

I know its been beat to death, but after you do everything on Z trains list, try adding some 'redline water wetter'. I have used it on three different vehicles, and on all three, I have noticed a double digit difference.

This is just achingly beautiful... really its mindboggling how pristine everything... You sir, have me green with envy

Thanks guys, I love the new look, and I can finally get Arne off my back! haha RIF, check your personal messages.

To each his own. I am still 'finding' myself and what direction I want to take my car. THe longer I have it and drive it, I lean more an more to a more stock look. I love the stock car. I do not think the clears looked bad, but in my eyes, the character of the car is surfacing!

Thats hard to say. If it really bugs you, do a quick valve lash. Its easy insurance. If it persists, I would start with a compression check.

Dude, your gold rims are AWE-SOME

Yeah, thats one of the fixes talked about in that sticky linkage thread, right? I think the advice is to use a 280Z linkage rod, as its longer. I still need to find one though...

This is very good to know!! Thanks for the review!

As the title says, I want to replace the throttle linkage to fix my sticky throttle situation that many Z people experience. I know of the two fixes that are popular, but I have not been able to find anybody selling these linkage pieces... its the next thing to fix on the old girl...

Hey Houston TExas, Where at? I live near Kemah

Awesome, congrats!!!

Try replacing your cap and rotor.. just a hunch, but it really helped out my revving problems.

Actaully, I have always heard that straight water gives the best cooling, the only drawback is the 212°F limit before it boils. If your car does not get that hot straight water works very well, however, it provides no corrosion protection nor any lubrication. If your cars cooling is in good shape, you can run water with a 'water wetter' type of product as they add lubrication as well as anti-corrosive additives. Just a thought. I am going to dump some water wetter in my Z. I never really get above the middle line (3 core) ever, but I will let everybody know how or if it works.

UPDATE: Just to cap this thread off for future use.. I did some research, and my Bosch coil is the blue type, which does not require a 1.5 Ohm resistor, the red Bosch coil does. So instead of removing it, the PO just bypassed the resistor with a jumper. By the way, drove the car all day yesterday in the cool morning, acted perfectly normal. I concur its heat related.

interesting... I will have to go download the instructions from the Pertonix website then, no worries!

Just out of curiosity, did you get to it from under the dash, and did you have to remove the steering wheel? I remember having my arm pretty far over there when I did the three guages in the middle through the glove box. By the way.. Update. I put an Ohmmeter on the coil terminal to terminal. Right at about 4 Ohms. When I checked one side of the large square resistor I was getting 0 Ohm, which of course is wrong. THen I noticed a small jumper that ran from one side of the resistor to the other (mind you I am running the pertronix in my car) WHen I removed the jumper and just measured the resistance across the resistor, it was 1.6-1.7 Ohms. I think all that may sound right, so I may just try to pull the tach ASAP to swap it out. But if something is fishy, let me know folks! THanks as usual. Here is pick of my set up. By the way, the red wire goes to the dizzy. You can see the jumper I am referring to that spans the resistor. The thing is, the resistor is basically useless with that in place...I never had the instructions on installing the pertronix, I have to assume this is what was instructed.

THen my mission should I choose to accept it is to change my tach out without removing my full dash cap! This thread will self distruct in 5 seconds

WHen I first joined this forum, I noticed my tach was never really happy anywhere above 5k. I quickly determined that it was in fact the tach that was not happy, rather than the engine. Today, it was the first really hot day out, and after being in the sun all day and then getting stuck in traffic, I noticed my tack was hovering around 4k. Which in itself is not that unusual, but I was idling at a stop light. I noticed it then began to bounce slowly back and forth as it made it way to peg the needle past 8k. Now since I was at idle, I was pretty sure that this was not really happening :stupid:. The car ran just fine, so I was really not worried, figured the tach was just borked. Now when I got it home I turned off the key and it immediately flopped back to zero. Flopped is pretty much the right word. When I turned the key back on, but did not start the engine, it slowly rose to peg the tach again. I went inside to mill it over. I went back outside in the garage after grabbing some water and fired her up again, about 10 minutes had passed. The tach was working. Ahhhhh Haaaaaa the plot thickens! I think this has the signs of a tach thats on its last legs. THe thing is though when it operates its dead smooth and pretty accurate. Well up to about the 5500 rpm area anyway. So, my question, is, could this be just a bad connection somewhere, or is the fact that the heat may have caused this just a sign that the tachs internal electronics are just too old and somewhere the Ohm (ie resistance) load is way to high. Or it could be short...So........... I am going to start by cleaning off the terminal ends around the coil and resistor on the firewall. Then I will look for any frayed wiring. I have an extra tach in the box I can replace it with, but the thought of pulling my tach back through my full dash cap is less than exciting... THanks for any answers..