Zedyone_kenobi

As the title says, I want to replace the throttle linkage to fix my sticky throttle situation that many Z people experience. I know of the two fixes that are popular, but I have not been able to find anybody selling these linkage pieces... its the next thing to fix on the old girl...

Hey Houston TExas, Where at? I live near Kemah

Awesome, congrats!!!

Try replacing your cap and rotor.. just a hunch, but it really helped out my revving problems.

Actaully, I have always heard that straight water gives the best cooling, the only drawback is the 212°F limit before it boils. If your car does not get that hot straight water works very well, however, it provides no corrosion protection nor any lubrication. If your cars cooling is in good shape, you can run water with a 'water wetter' type of product as they add lubrication as well as anti-corrosive additives. Just a thought. I am going to dump some water wetter in my Z. I never really get above the middle line (3 core) ever, but I will let everybody know how or if it works.

UPDATE: Just to cap this thread off for future use.. I did some research, and my Bosch coil is the blue type, which does not require a 1.5 Ohm resistor, the red Bosch coil does. So instead of removing it, the PO just bypassed the resistor with a jumper. By the way, drove the car all day yesterday in the cool morning, acted perfectly normal. I concur its heat related.

interesting... I will have to go download the instructions from the Pertonix website then, no worries!

Just out of curiosity, did you get to it from under the dash, and did you have to remove the steering wheel? I remember having my arm pretty far over there when I did the three guages in the middle through the glove box. By the way.. Update. I put an Ohmmeter on the coil terminal to terminal. Right at about 4 Ohms. When I checked one side of the large square resistor I was getting 0 Ohm, which of course is wrong. THen I noticed a small jumper that ran from one side of the resistor to the other (mind you I am running the pertronix in my car) WHen I removed the jumper and just measured the resistance across the resistor, it was 1.6-1.7 Ohms. I think all that may sound right, so I may just try to pull the tach ASAP to swap it out. But if something is fishy, let me know folks! THanks as usual. Here is pick of my set up. By the way, the red wire goes to the dizzy. You can see the jumper I am referring to that spans the resistor. The thing is, the resistor is basically useless with that in place...I never had the instructions on installing the pertronix, I have to assume this is what was instructed.

THen my mission should I choose to accept it is to change my tach out without removing my full dash cap! This thread will self distruct in 5 seconds

WHen I first joined this forum, I noticed my tach was never really happy anywhere above 5k. I quickly determined that it was in fact the tach that was not happy, rather than the engine. Today, it was the first really hot day out, and after being in the sun all day and then getting stuck in traffic, I noticed my tack was hovering around 4k. Which in itself is not that unusual, but I was idling at a stop light. I noticed it then began to bounce slowly back and forth as it made it way to peg the needle past 8k. Now since I was at idle, I was pretty sure that this was not really happening :stupid:. The car ran just fine, so I was really not worried, figured the tach was just borked. Now when I got it home I turned off the key and it immediately flopped back to zero. Flopped is pretty much the right word. When I turned the key back on, but did not start the engine, it slowly rose to peg the tach again. I went inside to mill it over. I went back outside in the garage after grabbing some water and fired her up again, about 10 minutes had passed. The tach was working. Ahhhhh Haaaaaa the plot thickens! I think this has the signs of a tach thats on its last legs. THe thing is though when it operates its dead smooth and pretty accurate. Well up to about the 5500 rpm area anyway. So, my question, is, could this be just a bad connection somewhere, or is the fact that the heat may have caused this just a sign that the tachs internal electronics are just too old and somewhere the Ohm (ie resistance) load is way to high. Or it could be short...So........... I am going to start by cleaning off the terminal ends around the coil and resistor on the firewall. Then I will look for any frayed wiring. I have an extra tach in the box I can replace it with, but the thought of pulling my tach back through my full dash cap is less than exciting... THanks for any answers..

This is a known issue, and there have been several threads on it here I hope you find useful. I have to address this as well...Just need to find the time!

Not sure if I can! My wife loves the clear ones.. I may try to swap them out. I am thinking I may like some color on the side of the car.. Heck its fathers day coming up, I think I will give it a go...Hope you guys can take a few more pics!

Look take the time and get new rockers. While the rockers themselves are pretty darn strong, why not replace everything. I think MSA sells everything in a kit for like 599 or so. It come with springs, lash pads, rockers, cam, etc. if I recall. Its better to save up and do it right, than to cut corners. So you may have to save up for another month or two, the peace of mind is worth it.

hee hee. Yeah, I have been looking around for new tires as well. guilty.

I am currently running 205/60/15's, and have been thinking of going to 195/60/15's as well. Dougs car looks great with 195/60's. The difference in overall diameter is tiny. My old A509's are decent, but are VERY old, and I think are probably a tad harder than they should be. Also, I have not had any problems of overpowering my tires an I think I could afford to lose a tad bit of width and a touch of height, without hurting anything. My goal is to run the lightest tire I can and still maintain a healthy amount of grip and handling. I will be replacing them soon, and need to make up my mind.

I am running Panasports 15 x 7 with yokohama A-509 (out of production) 205/60/15.. just for reference. OH , and I have the same red Tokiko springs and struts

its like asking what is the best producer of Vanilla ice Cream (blue bell by the way) it worth whatever people pay. Premier examples of S30's go for high 20's low 30's. Great examples go for 8-14k. Good Examples go for 5-8k. But these all vary depending on location, time of year, and the particulars of the buyer and seller. 2000 dollars for an S30 sounds great, but we would need pictures and what your goals of the car are, and how much do you want to spend in repairs.

I think it looks fantastic, and it would save the occasional curb rash or scuff from a steep sloped entrance. I say do it.

5wbuttpucker

That probably indicates some contamination, be it from carbon or other things have been captured by the rings and has been dragged against the cylinder wall. It sounds like you will need at least a hone, if not a rebore.

I wish you luck buddy, but you can do a world of good searching all the local car clubs in the country. Yes I said the entire country. They usually have some of the best examples. I found my Z using the North Carolina Z club web page. Good luck!

mine are 15's as well

I think its mostly lighting...its pretty darn close. In the garage pics, you can tell its pretty spot on. Well as close as anybody can make it. Its an MSA spook.

THanks, took a bunch of pics this morning, learning how to shoot the angled spook. I think I like the low and lean shots with a 18mm lens to show the angles better.