Zedyone_kenobi

I am by no means a novice when it comes to car detailing. I shop for all the good products, use all the good equipment, and pretty much do not believe in paying anybody to touch my cars ever. This went especially for my 240Z. However, my talents have their limits. I looked around for quite some time and found Michael at showroom shine mobile detailing... http://www.showroommobiledetailing.com/ I have been burned before with hefty promises from websites, but the more I looked into what was printed and the reviews, I was starting to believe it. My problem...My Z has a 15 year old paint job on it. Single stage, dual stage paint, is your best guess. The front was very glossy and the back was extremely dull, oxidized, and flat looking. I tried as I may with all the products that will work with an orbital buffer, but nothing helped. My paint still looked old and uneven. I decided a complete car detail and paint restoration was cheaper than a new paint job, so I gave Michael a ring. This guys is walking encyclopedia of all the latest and most high tech paint cleaning and shining techniques. He immediately went to work with a wash, clay bar, and countless polishing, cleaning, and finishing applications with his rotary buffer. Never did he look rushed to get away from my car, never did he seem to cut corners at any time. Took him just over 4 hours to do the job inside, out, and engine. The results were nothing short of amazing! If your wondering about the pop up canopy, thats his, and its for protection against the sun. I am telling you no detail is overlooked. Now if this sounds like a paid advertisement, well, its not. I paid for my detail in full. But the results were so good, I wanted to tell my local guys about it in case they have a car that needs some "back from the dead" restoration. We all have our limitations... mine starts when the orbital buffer will not work, as I have not mastered the skill of a rotary buffer yet. Rather than risk burning my paint, I called Michael. For the lazy, the cliff notes are his results were so good, that I can put off a new paint job for several years, as my car shines evenly from front to back now. I will post pictures of this miracle when the rain stops over my house...as I do not think garage pictures will do it justice.

Okay, I did some preliminary amp guage investigating today to try to troubleshoot my problem. First, here is my current guage. It stays like this whether the car is on or off, load or no load. Its stuck here... When I pulled my spare guage from the box... it looked like this, which is most likely more normal... So I started to remove the glove box, as I hear its fairly reasonable to get to from there. But when I was cleaning out the glove box, I found a set of fuses, and I thought I should check out the fusebox to see if any had blown... Picture with the cover on, notice where the Ammeter/Amp is called out... Now look what I found when I removed the front cover... One of these things is not like the others....one of these things is missing something.. can you guess what it is... I concede that my guage is probably in need of replacement, but would it even work if this other part of the fuse box is not in place? Should I be looking for another fuse box?

Hey, at least he has vision...a terribly warped one, but a vision...

roger wilco... I will let you know how it goes.

Well, I assume the alternator is fine, as my battery has never needed a charge and it runs my lights and accessories just fine. It stays pegged all the time, could a lose wire do the same thing, or are we talking fried gage. Could an aftermarket or different model year alternator do this.... I have no idea what the PO put on this thing.

My amp meter has been pegged off scale high since I bought the car, however, the fuel guage works fine, if not a little sticky. I have downloaded the factory service manual for the electrical portion, but all it says is ensure alternator is working properly...Which I am sure it is.. is there a simple test. I have a spare gage I can swap in, should I swap it out for my test, or is there something I can do before removing it.

I dont know fellahs, looks like snake oil. Low VIN does not mean much to me when its going to take 30,000 dollars to restore it at least. Money is better spent elsewhere if you ask me.

ditto, flickr, also does not resize your originals to some smaller miniscule size. Fickr pro is very reasonable as well. BAsically infinity space per month to upload, I have never used 1% of my allowable space. Its the best photo sharing sight on the net in my opinion.

OH dear God, now thats how to make function and art the same thing.. what a pleasing thing to behold.

Nope, Flag waving USA member my whole life, I just like the way the Europeans say 350Zed, or the Nissan 300ZedX. Its just a preference thing. Its the same as when the Alan Decadinah (sp) on speed vision say Porsche Nine One Seven...Zed just sounds better to my ears than ZEEEEEE

Your right, that was about 4500-5000 rpm... I probably should have mentioned that.

Cant speak highly enough of Wing's services...I am very pleased with the products he sells. <embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf?video=3cc10707-6678-4475-8ace-9b710183b213" width="428" height="352" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed><br/><a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1971-240Z-with-vintage_205421.htm?ref=79d7ea8f-fae7-4d30-a821-9b7101450a9b">1971 240Z with vintage ANSA dual tip muffler insta</a>

It smooth out really well. Put it to you this way...my wife and I went to a nice dinner last night and we had a conversation in the car at 60 mph with no problem. No droning yet I can detect. I will have to keep an eye on it as the sound will change as the packing material gets burnt in.

My ANSA clip! Enjoy.. the video does not really do it justice... <embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf?video=3cc10707-6678-4475-8ace-9b710183b213&cspid=49448c291a4ed945" id="w4852a3180b8a34b749448c291a4ed945" width="428" height="352" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" /><br/><a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/3cc10707-6678-4475-8ace-9b710183b213.htm">1971 240Z with vintage ANSA dual tip muffler insta</a>

ANSA plus resonator. I was not thrilled at how they necked down from a 2.5" to a 2" pipe to meet the ANSA. Its quite frankly the shoddiest bit of workmanship. Which amazed me. As the rest of the bends and attachments are very very nice. Its like he was forced to hurry up and finish. She shop owner kept coming by saying to the tech, who was doing a very thorough job up to this point, that he needed to hurry up and finish that car... its taking too long.. I think I will get it redone at a different shop. Its only the last two bends or so to the ANSA, less than 3 feed of pipe. OTHer than that I am VERY happy with how it sounds.

Exhaust is MOUNTED!!! The guys at the shop did 90% of what I wanted. The sound.... OH my Gosh the sound these pipes make. My car exudes power and refinement now. The old craptacular setup is gone and about a dozen rattles I use to have are eliminated. The car sounds stronger....no more power of course, but the I cannot speak enough of how these make the car sound!!

You sir are my new hero!

Here are the pieces of my exhaust. First the ANSA tip I was so happy to receive, and second the Aero Resonator I picked up from Verocious motorsports. Its 12" long, 2.5" inlet/outlet, and 4" max diameter. Nice polished 304 Stainless steel design. These will be hooked up to my MSA ceramic coated header... Pics and sounds to come soon.. but for now.

My beautiful ANSA tips arrived today. I must say, I am blown away at the look of this part up close. Hard to believe its the age it is. I want to thank WingZr0 for his prompt service and AMAZING packaging. I would not hesitate to buy anything from him ever again. My polished resonator came in today as well, so I have everything I need to hook up my exhaust this week or next week. Pics and videos to come soon.

Thanks a million for letting me know about that Zclocks.com site. My clock is not currently functional!!

Let me be the first to say she is beautiful!!

Can you give us more info on what year your Z is?

I will let you know how it goes, did you leave the stock ballast in, or take it out. I have read posts where people switched coils and left out the ballast..

As I have mentioned before my car has always had issues revving past 5k. It use to stumble at around 4500, but after replacing my cap and rotor, things progressively got better. Now I can rev her to 5000-5500 rpm. Once I get to that point, crazy things start to happen. The tach needle runs smooth as a swiss watch normally. Idle and rpm response are great. Once it hits around 5000 rpm, the tach needle bounces around form 1000 rpm to 6000 rpm quickly. Its crazy. I think the car starts to stumble at that point as well. Its just weird for it to act so perfectly at all other times, then do this. Any ideas fellow Z car owners... I have checked my pertronix and it seems to be hooked up properly. I am entertaining the idea of dropping a mallory in there or a rebuilt one Nissan EI distributor.

I am very interested in this! I would love an OEM rebuilt dizzy for my Z. As I suspect mine has 'issues'. Does he do Z's as well as roadsters?