Zedyone_kenobi

UPDATE: my exhaust is now fully planned out. I am purchasing an ANSA tip from WingZr0 this week and will be keeping my stock header. I will have a new aluminized pipe run from the header to the ANSA. I may or may not put a resonator in there, not sure if its needed. But should have that done in a couple of weeks.

Are those ANSA tips mnadkaw, how do they sound???

As said before, you must be honest with yourself. Do not underestimate how long things will take. something that looks like a 1 hour job can easily turn into a week long endeavor. This is how projects cars get lost and sold for parts. What your looking at here is not simple refresh, its a car that needs attention on every single level from electrics, to mechanical, to paint, to fluids. You have to ask yourself some real questions... What can I do, am I good at mechanical things, am I pretty savvy at paint and body? How much money can I set aside to do the work, 10-20k dollars is not unrealistic by any means. Keep in mind that number is not for a show quality car, we are talking about a decent looking daily driver. How much time do I have? Do I have a PERMANENT space to work on the car? When would I like to have the car completed? If you truly want a Z, and I understand your love with them, as they were my all time favorite car growing up, then this will be a long love affair filled with swearing, tears, blood, and finally joy. But ask yourself this. If you just want a Z to drive and enjoy, then this resto may not be the best choice. You have ALOT of work ahead of you. To answer your question, what should I do first, the answer I would suggest is, make sure you know what your getting into. That is the first step. For what it would take you to fix this one up, you could buy a VERY nice 240Z for yourself to drive worry free for years. Granted this one has family significance, but I have to ask you this. Do not take offense at this, but if the car is so important, why is it in the condition it is in now? Perhaps a family event caused the car to be sidelined, but either way, letting emotional attachments to a machine can often lead you astray of realistic goals. My advice would be to let the car sit where it is and save up 8-12k, and then go find you a nice Z that you can drive, learn about and work on.

It would probably cost about 100 bucks to ship it. they weigh on the order of 140 lbs. If you do not mind Arne, think about what would make you happy, and we can talk to see if we can come to an agreement. Shipping would be a huge hastle for you, and I understand if you would rather not. But PM me when you have given it some thought. As usual, thanks for your time and consideration. Stephen

What coil did you use with your Mallory Jack T. The PO of my car has a Bosch coil that I am sure is up to the task. I currently run a pertronix on my car and it starts and runs fine, but funny things happen to my tach beyond 5500 rpm. I am wondering if my tach has anything to do with it.

I am looking for an early 4 speed tranny for my 71 240Z. I would like to have one as a spare for future plans that are in the works. Does anybody happen to know where I can pick one up? the local pick a parts are pretty bare.

Need to hear these and see pictures. I am contemplating ordering these. I have a 6-3-2 header on my car from MSA, so this would bolt right up.

When you order the ITG's from MSA they come with the holes needed to mount to the SU's. And thats it. THe orange air box on your stock 240Z has ports for your carb vents, your valve cover, and your tank vent. I had to find ways to run those lines. You can see my initial attempt at connecting the carb vent holes with a single piece of tubing with a vented connector in it. I am not happy with this setup, but mechanically its functional and will not hurt anything.

Your point is most likely correct. I have tokico struts and springs on her for now.

Fair enough...Can the moderators move it to my other thread?

Thanks, the garage was a labor of love... still have some plans for vintage art on the walls.

Took her for a drive this evening. Both sides settled down about an inch and they are a half finger width within each other. She looks and sits level now.

Hey Frank, you dont know the half of it. I am planning on making the Z Christmas party, its in my neck of the woods. So I can get the wife and baby to show up as well. How have you been?

Well after a 15 mile jaunt this evening, my car is very healthy indeed. I managed to fill her up with gas, take her to sonic and just stretch her legs a little. Its amazing how well she drives. My clunk for all intensive purposes is gone and in order to hear anything bad I have to something really violent in first gear to hear anything. Every other gear is quiet and smooth as a mouse. My car feels more solid now than it ever had. I am very glad that I replaced all the Ujoints and other bushings while I was in there. The car sounds and feels wonderful. And finally she is at rest back in the garage. Waiting for the next round of elective surgery Whats next. May check out my my tach goes all crazy when I rev her past 5500. Or I may fix that shift lever that spins in my hand. Either way, I think I am going to enjoy driver her a bit longer before I put her back on those ramps.

I am a cow.... hahah.. no I am an average 190 lb 5' 10" dude. Nothing crazy on the thin or fat side. turn ons include fast cars, space shuttles and the letter Z

Thanks D. I need to drive it again to see what she is going to do first. I was going to replace those bushings since I already had the front diff crossmember off. So it would have been very easy to just replace the rears. We will see.... I will write back later to let you know how she drove.

it really depends. Most LSD have a break away torque that will allow one side of the diff to turn at a different speed than the other. How hard did you try to turn it? its not uncommon for some people to make a 'poor mans' differential by welding up the cogs inside of it.

When I was searching for pics of installed ITG's, I had a hard time finding them, so not that mine are in, I wanted to post some pictures. I am still working on the carb bowl vents locations. I am not happy with them as is, but it will work tolerably for now.

Well I have just finished my diff clunk investigation (positive results so far) and when I snapped this pic it looked like my car was sitting uneven. When I measured my right side was a about a 1/2" lower than my left side. Now my car was on ramps in the front and jack stands in the rear for over 2 months. I am wondering if my suspension just needs to settle again after being fully extended for so long. At the time of this picture, I have not driven it out of the garage yet... weather was horrible.

Shes Alive! Today my Z fired back up to life. It was pouring outside, so I refrained from driving her. Initial results are hard to quantify. I am optimistic. The clunk if its still there is much quieter. I will know more when I get a chance to drive it around for a while. I cannot wait. I would love to drive it to work this week one time. But its was good to hear her breath again. SU's make a nice sound un-muffled. And finally, she is resting back together. We have made her stronger, we had the technology, the time and determination. Most of all, we had help, from the people on this website. I salute all who were able to help me through this process.

I have one of those blessed days MOnday where my kid will be at day care, and my wife will be at work and I will be at home with the car...<sigh> what bliss! I managed this past weekend to screw up my ITG air cleaner backing plates drilling holes for the vent tubes from the carb. So unfortunately, no answer yet. But the car will be driven Monday! And I will report back then. I have new ITG backing plates coming from MSA, and finally found the right hardware to handle all my vacuum tube needs. Pics to come soon. The Z will be rolling in time for Veterans day!

I had thought the vent lines on the carbs were to suck the vapors out of the top of the fuel bowls. But if they are just vents, then it opens up more possibilities to be sure. However, I thank you for defining what the last mystery line was. I think that fuel vapor line should still be given a vacuum source. I have that covered.

I want to install a set of ITG's on my 71 Zed. I like the look, and I will never outgrow them. So they are sitting in my garage and are the last things I need to hook up to end my 2 month down time in clunk elimination mode. Now having said that, there are 4 lines that go to stock air box. 2 carb vent hoses 1 vent tube that runs to a junction box beneath the coil that I have no idea where it goes 1 large tube to the valve cover, which just pulls the pressure and gasses out. I have gone the route to replace the valve cover hose with a breather like many others have. now I am left to hook up these vacuum lines to the back plates of the ITG's. I am having a hell of a time find a good screw on nipple to hook these lines up with. What do people do who take off the vacuum lines and install webers or mikunis. Or just the K&N twin cleaners, which is essentially the same thing as I have. I either need to find out how hook up the vacuum lines to the back of the ITG's or reroute the vacuun lines elsewhere. What have other people done when they replaced the stock air box

Welcome indeed. Any true gearhead such as yourself is great to hear form.

Just to be safe, I changed my tranny fluid. You fill a manual tranny up until it comes out of the fill hole right? 1971 4 speed manual. I know its a silly question, but it seemed like I put more in it than 1.5 liters.