Zedyone_kenobi

I found a lot of that by researching a bunch of our old DCOE posts blue. I think you and I should write a book one day!

The car had originally 55F8 idle jets. With the aforementioned issues that I attribute to a bit of a lean condition... I tried a leaner jet 50F9 - which should have made things worse, and they did I tried a richer jet 60F9 - which should have made things better, and they did The problem is the F9 runs marginally richer than the F8 given the same fuel orifice per weber documentation: Rich - F6 F12 F9 F8 F11 F13 F2 F4 F5 F7 Fl F3 - Lean So the 50F9 could have been much closer to the 55F8 than I wanted, which makes sense as the results were only slightly worse. Likewise, the 60F9 was probably two many steps to the rich side as I think she is burning a bit rich on throttle application, but I have zero hesitation or stumbling. What I should try is a 55F9 or a 60F8 Oh the joy of this job. Things will be much clearer when I install my sideband Personally, my money is on the 55F9, but I ordered both just to be sure.

UPDATE: Well I managed to find time to pull off the float bowl covers from my Webers. Unfortunately, both floats were adjusted perfectly according to what my weber book says for 45 DCOE 15/16 So I went ahead and changed out the 55F8 idle jets for 50F9. I think this should make all my problems worse. Hopefully I am right. I am more interested in getting applicable results than fixing the problem. What I need is an Innovative LM1 in my roadster. That will happen in July. June is already spent. Anyway, if I am right, I should have crazy popping from my exhaust on deceleration and then also bad off idle performance. If this is the case, then I know lean is my culprit and I can start the process of bringing her back up I have a set of 60F9 jets that are up next. I will report back to this thread when I get my driving review of my 50F9's. Oh also, the threads on the 45 DCOE 15/16's are very different. A 1/16th of a turn makes a difference on these things. Very interesting.

The main venturi is called out in my weber book to be a 38mm for a 45 DCOE 15. I know I have a hotter cam which would need more airflow if the head can supply it adequately. I think on the roadster forum there is a flow bench test of the U20 head. Each barrel of the carbs must feed a full half liter, a whopping 500cc, where as in the L28 I have in the Z each barrel must feed only 466cc go down to a L24 and naturally it drops to 400cc Going to a smaller choke size may increase my sensitivity to a throttle inputs. But I will leave that alone, as the 45 DCOE 15 was made originally on the 1800 BMW sedan. So while engines differ, my hot 2.0 liter should be able to handle it within reason. Now I still need to verify the chokes are in fact 38mm and now some 40mm monsters.

AS luck would have it, I happen to be looking through my Weber carburetors tuning tips and techniques book and it happens to have a cutaway from a DCOE 15/16 and how to check the float level on those particular carbs. Man, the usefulness of books and literature is just staggering in this hobby.

did you say DATA!!! DROOL

With that green paint and those wire wheels, that may be the classiest Z I have ever laid eyes on. I mean I have seen a lot of Zs, but I have never been tempted to call one classy until I saw yours. Sporty, fun, mean, sure, but never, ever once did the term classy come to mind.. until now. Well played sir.

Thanks Blue, I could not remember which ones ran at 1 turn or less and 1 turn or more.... The thread pitch changed at some time. I know the mains are at least close. I will go and pull the jets to see what I have. I need to yank the carbs to at least see what the chokes are. Just did some checking on the Webers. Upon removal of the covers to the progression holes, the butterfly uncovers the first hole the instant you move the throttle, which is EXACTLY how it is suppose to be. I was a bit shocked it was so dead on. Checking the float level, as I learned with my 240Z was critical, so assuming the DCOE 45 was the same as the DCOE 40, I used the Keith Franck float level checker which measures exactly 25mm. Both my carbs float levels are too high by about 3 mm. That may explain why unscrewing the idles past half way makes the car want to die from being do darn rich. First step is to get the floats in the right place. Then I will report back, but I have to find more carb gaskets. Oh this is what she is running. 2000 cc engine Mains: 125 Idle: 55F8 Etube: F9 Air C: 150 The mains and the air corrector look way to close.. but I am not there yet. I would think she would need a bigger main jet. We are talking about 500cc per cylinder. The 55 F8 is a good median choice. I cannot mess with either until the fuel level is perfect though.

I have a set of Weber 45 DCOE 15/16 on my 2000 roadster. Okay I know it is not Z related, but the topic of tuning webers is near and dear to our heart, and the Roadster guys seem to have the Mikuni or go home mantra rolling. My biggest issue is with the idle jets I think. A little background first. My 2000 has a B cam in it (which is suited for solex/weber/mikuni), and has a bit more compression than stock, say 10:1. The front carb is a 45 DCOE 15 and the back is a 45 DCOE 16. Apparently this combo 15/16 was popular on BMW's so I am not so worried about it. The progressoin holes look identical on them as far as I can tell. Not sure what chokes are in the body of the carbs. I am currently running 55F9 idle jets. The mixture screws are only out a bit over half a turn from fully closed (seems wrong). The car stumbles slightly off idle at part throttle. But runs smoothly in 3-5th gear. Upon deceleration in gear the car pops badly from the exhaust (header into a straight pipe). Not a nice blurble, I mean BOOM, pop pop bang. If I richen up the idle mixture screws, the popping goes away entirely upon deceleration, but the off idle missing and stumbling is horrendous. Right now I am driving it with mixture screws about a half out from fully closed. My plan of action is to get a leaner idle jet, say a 50F9, and then try to open up the idle mixture screws more to the 1.5-2 turns I usually achieve. Any thoughts?

Truely a nice purchase. That is the way I like to buy them. Driveable and ready to be made perfect. I like to call them rolling restorations! Enjoy the ride man!

Yup Guy, those are the panasports my Z came with when I bought it. I have taken them off and on many times when I get a penchant for something different and I want to rock my VTO LeMans. But time after time, I keep coming back to the Panasports. They are just timeless and classic. I am very fortunate to find a roadster with panasports as well.

Got her inspected today, balanced the carbs, checked timing, and cleaned her up a bit. She is a solid 5 foot car. Drives wonderfully

While I admire his spirit of adventure, The logical side of me just says, buy a vette.

Driver is stuck in dallas as another customer has not bothered to show up to pick up his cars. So I am pushed waaay back. May be as late as saturday. GRRRRR I actually like a bit of burgundy. If you think of the silver and burgundy Singer 911 you are getting what I am saying. But I will definitey ask for samples as your requested bud. Thanks for the good advice.

Thanks guys. Car should arrive today. Just waiting to hear from driver!

Don't be jealous yet, the final joke could be on me. I have just purchased a car without even driving it. Classic stupid decision. It may end up very badly. But I may also get lucky. We will see. Fingers crossed. She should arrive tomorrow!

I am loving those yellow fogs man!

tlorber... I have joined 311s.org and I have been lucky to find datsunparts.com. What an amazing resource. I have a few parts lined up. first I need a touneau cover. It does not have one. Then I think I am going to order that complete super kit for the interior and do an entire black to red conversion. I love the white / red combo. The only combo I love more is the silver red. So if I ever get her painted I will be tempted, even though it was originally white (which I really do like as well) More info. It has 70100 miles on the chassis. The motor has been rebuilt once at 59000 miles, but the original block / heads valve cover etc are all in the car. It is funny, my Z had 69800 miles on the chassis when I first bought it. THe similarities of these two cars for me is crazy. Exact same purchase price as well. I will not be getting crazy with this one. I know it has the Gary Boone Electronic Dizzy, which is great, and it has the Datsun B cam. It has had the SU's removed and is running Webers DCOE 45's. It should be a screamer.

I should update that Blue... I will be keeping the STI diff, so I may have broken 94% now.

Loaded up and on the way to the house..should have it by mid week! I know it is not Z content, but I will have a pick of them side by side soon enough

john, just saw bensen performance website. You guys look really first class. Enjoyed the website and the execution.

What is available. This is terrible news. I have wanted to replace my HPS tokiko shocks for a while with some newer ones.

You know you may want to just enjoy it stock. Those things are nearing legendary status on truck forums. The truck collectible market is just going to stupid high prices as well. The toyota pick up will certainly be one of the first to start climbing.

Fan freaking tactic little toy! Love it. My dad had one, practically indestructible. What are you going to swap into this one... a helicopter turbine haha

I need a set of OEM seats for it. Unfortunately the owner put in miata seats which I hate. I love the OEM looking seats with the headrest. The interior is black, but I have pretty much convinced myself I am going to go red, or saddle brown.