Zedyone_kenobi

Congrats and welcome buddy. keep the wrenches moving.

congrats on the maiden voyage... keep her rolling!

This is 100% a worn throttle linkage thing. I would bet the house on it. After I replaced the linkage (with new Ztherapy SU's) my car drove exactly like any new OEM car on the market, engine running or not. I had the smoothest pedal I ever had. NO sticking ever. It may not be about lube as much as it is about suble angles and worn ball and sockets. The first thing I would do to a new to me Z car is replace all those linkages with new ones or at least new ball ends.

Got that poster in my garage! LOVE IT.

Those particular track officials have little to do with NEED, more WANT.

I should buy this just to destoy those wheels.

I think this has merit. I would add this. The people in the race can choose a set of average speeds, have a GT1 class that runs a X. A GT2 class that runs at X + 15 mph, and a GT3 class that runs at X + 30 mph. That way you avoid a procession of slow cars driving by, and passing comes into play. Getting out of the way may put you off your pace, as might passing, or getting caught in traffic. I think you idea has LOTS of merit. Rent the track and have at it.

I have never seen a quote for less than 5k for my car. How are you guys finding people who will paint it for 1200!! Are you doing all the sanding priming and they are just painting. Paint costs about 800 bucks!!

I do not find this to be a fault with the Z. My Z had this exact problem when I first bought it. It was quite bad actually. When I got the SU's rebuilt at Z therapy, It came back with new linkage rods on them. The cars problem were 100% gone. All of the parts were bone stock. Nothing was cut, bent, modified or any other creative bandaid. I am just saying that if the parts are in good non worn out condition, the throttle will be perfectly OEM. I would recommend calling Z therapy and asking them how much it would be for a complete set of new push pull rods with new ends on them I think if you get that, and remove all the slop, you will see your problem goes away. Moral of the story, when the car was new it did not have a sticky throttle, so return it to new.... Or you can get a lokar cable, as it work very well just as Mike said.

no finer evidence will ye recieve...

By any chance do you have a tach for a 71 240Z Or, "and don't laugh", dashboard that is not cracked? do you have an R180 with a 3.90 or 3.54 Gear ratio?

205/55 here as well. It is a great looking tire that clears the front and rear bodywork. I would buy another in a second.

That was darn near poetic buddy, Well said!

No go on dyno day fellahs, Had to pull kid duty on friday. Wife got called into work and I was playing with my little one. I will have to reschedule... Bummer.. but me and my 6 month old had a great day!

Those 71 numbers are for the non emissions cars Blue, as you know the 71 US emissions dizzy equipped ran 5 degrees initial advance.

Blue, get some clay and build you a model. THat is how Peter Brock would do it!

I have scheduled some dyno time on Friday morning to see what my car puts down. I will bring some jets and a timing light with me! Should be fun, but I am dealing with a shop full of Brotatoes who only work on LSX engines and Vipers. Out of curiosity what are your reservations?

Good to meet you DAVE! Great to hear form a TX guy. I may have to swing by to see your ride very soon! I am in League City next to Kemah

My lift is around .480 Guy, with a 274 duration. Maybe more duration would help. Still like I said before, with additives I am fine. I have heard the P79 head is more resistant to detenation... I am enjoying this thing very mucy, and I would buy another Engine from Eiji if I wanted another. But I still have plans to overhaul my stock engine in some way. Maybe I will make it into a screamer...

I was going to play with the springs in my Mallory to make the timing come as late as possible, but even with the heaviest springs, the curves are not that different. But it is in the direction of goodness, so it cannot hurt. My goal is to make the carbs, the head, the cam and the timing all working together to achieve the same goal. In my case that is a huge midrange torque hump with a fall off all the way to 7000 rpm. Everything I have done up to this point is to maximize mid range power. The smaller carbs, the high initial advance on the cam, the selection of a mild cam, etc. It is all about parts working together. It seems this pining issue means I have exceeded a boundary somewhere, but I can fix that with timing, or fuel, or plugs, or even a head gasket change. This is all part of the fun of building the engine and it also adds to the appreciation of how hard it is to build an OEM engine that must be used by an entire country with different fuels, climates, elevations, etc. and still be robust and fun. The more you modify an engine, the more you appreciate how good stock is.

I was going to play with the springs in my Mallory to make the timing come as late as possible, but even with the heaviest springs, the curves are not that different. But it is in the direction of goodness, so it cannot hurt. My goal is to make the carbs, the head, the cam and the timing all working together to achieve the same goal. In my case that is a huge midrange torque hump with a fall off all the way to 7000 rpm. Everything I have done up to this point is to maximize mid range power. The smaller carbs, the high initial advance on the cam, the selection of a mild cam, etc. It is all about parts working together. It seems this pining issue means I have exceeded a boundary somewhere, but I can fix that with timing, or fuel, or plugs, or even a head gasket change. This is all part of the fun of building the engine and it also adds to the appreciation of how hard it is to build an OEM engine that must be used by an entire country with different fuels, climates, elevations, etc. and still be robust and fun. The more you modify an engine, the more you appreciate how good stock is.

Okay, I pulled my build sheet. Carl, this is for you. the L28 stock bore is 86mm, and mine is 86.5mm, not 87mm (Sorry about that, he listed OEM, first then actual, and I cut and past the OEM bore, not actual) I went and looked at the actual Excel sheet Eiji made me with the bore measurements on it, so I am sure about it. Also, A OEM Nissan L28 headgasket was used, as were OEM L28 rods. I am hoping this friday I can get my colder plugs in and if I can find a cooler thermostat.

I will get the exact numbers for you guys since curiosity has been shown. NO worries I know my cam was advanced by a large amount. Remeber that. Eiji told me when my cam came in it had a weird pin location so he had to degree it 6 degrees advanced. Gives great low end, but will probably petter out on the top end a tad. I wanted a midrange engine, so we both agreed to move forward. The huge initial advance was probably the cause for the low clearance piston to valve. Still, I could recam, but that may involve new lashpads and all that as well. I just want to reiterate. My car drives wonderfully, and the power is just great, but I wanted an open talk about sets ups and cam duration and compression, etc. And as usual you guys have answered the mail!

I will get the exact numbers for you guys since curiosity has been shown. NO worries I know my cam was advanced by a large amount. Remeber that. Eiji told me when my cam came in it had a weird pin location so he had to degree it 6 degrees advanced. Gives great low end, but will probably petter out on the top end a tad. I wanted a midrange engine, so we both agreed to move forward. The huge initial advance was probably the cause for the low clearance piston to valve. Still, I could recam, but that may involve new lashpads and all that as well. I just want to reiterate. My car drives wonderfully, and the power is just great, but I wanted an open talk about sets ups and cam duration and compression, etc. And as usual you guys have answered the mail!

This thread is all I could hope for! Such great information for myself and all others that may be looking to build an engine Bravo guys for keeping such splendid useful information here! What a great collection of thoughts!