Zedyone_kenobi

My gosh that is some of the funniest stuff I have seen in a long time. I forgot how much the 300ZX had in the way of digitalization.. HAHA

The tips on an ANSA are packed with material for marginal sound supression. Do you just want the look of an ANSA? If so I can measure mine and post back here.

hummmmm. I had not considered those kinds of filters. I run those sweet but marginally functional velocity stack filters... I may have to invest in a set of those as long as I can use my velocity stacks.

Thanks for trying this and taking one for the team Blue... I wish you luck in recovering from this

Okay we run air filters, and fuel filters all day long. WE clean them and we obsess over them. But the part that I baffles me is why do we kill ourselves when the front of the Weber has a 12mm hole in it that lets air in for the idle circuit to work. THat is unfiltered air. WE do not even try to filter that air. When I recently removed my webers and cleaned them there was DIRT in the very bottom of the bowls. DIRT. I removed it and all is well, but why do we never make an effort to filter the air coming in that huge gaping hole.

My advice to you is run a fuel return line to your tank. THat way you can circulate the fuel with your electric fuel pump. You could even run a cool can like some drag racers do to keep the fuel temps cool during those autox days.

Place holder post for pics later tonight.

Leon V to anwer your question. I have 4 arms on my actuation rod. 3 longer arms for the carb acuation rods 1 short arm that is ONLY used to hook up a universal return spring (this is the short arm that WAS used for the throttle Cable Connection, but NO LONGER) This spring is barely loaded when throttle plates closed, It only needs enough force to keep a slight bit of tension on the ball and socket rods to keep them from impeding the strong internal weber springs. Now I have the longer arms, one for each carb hooked up (using the middle hole for the ball and socket attachment) I use the middle carb long arm to attach the throttle cable to. I attach it to the outermost hole in the acuation arm giving me the most mechanical advantage I can get I am using the strongest internal return spring Blue mentioned I marked with one continuous line with a fine point sharpie the joint between the actuation arm and the actuation rod on the 2nd carb so that if I get any slippage I will know it. This is working marvelously right now. I think it would be wise to acquire another long acuation arm and attach the throttle cable AND universal return spring to it in place of the short actuation arm. I have the UK parts coming. I will have keep them and try them if this setup gives me any problems at all. If not then I have a great spare set, and I am sure I can always sell it.

Brock Racing Enterprises sells complete sticker kits, but not stencils. I think most of those paited stripes are just eye balled and painted on. They are all tribute stripes, so interpretation is allowed.

VICTORY After driving around with the car last night, the gas pedal has never felt as good as it does now. LIght, snappy, instant. Idle returns to 950 rpm every single time. Life is good. Those internal springs and longer actuation arm for the throttle cable did the trick. I will post a picture of my setup as soon as I can.

Strangely, Yes, it seems I have been hitting the darn carpet/floormats for years with my pedal not allowing me to hit the stops. I found that out as well. If I adjust the stop more 'in' I will hit the carpet and stop anyway. If I take out the carpet I can get more throw, but I really do not want to do that. Maybe I can notch the carpet or the throttle pedal, or both. I really want to use my schwanky new 240Z floormats, but they are very thick. So it will be trial and error. But I have a very positive feeling that I may be in a good place now.

To quote Archimedes Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole world This is the story of my linkage battle last night. Mechanical advantage is your friend, and enemy. I played extensively with angles and moment arms, and degrees of rotation last night to get a clean pull and balance mechanical advantage with throttle sweep. After all maximizing mechanical advantage is useless if the full pedal travel only gets you half throttle. And getting full throttle at the cost of a rock hard gas pedal is equally useless. The solution: The biggest thorn in this whole situation is this. Every linkage kit I have seen comes with three carb actuation arms, and ONE (STUPIDLY SHORT) throttle cable attachment arm. This short arm is asked to do two things and the short length is a handicap in both situations. First it must move three much longer carb actuation rods. I my case, those three longer rods were attached to three VERY hard return springs. Second the return spring is often connected to the throttle cable attachment arm. It is at a huge mechanical disadvantage as well to pull the other arms back to full closed (not much of a problem with these huge internal return springs). My solution was this. First I used the middle carburetor actuation arm and attached the throttlle cable to it instead of the short throttle cable attachment arm. It is a full 2 inches longer. I had the actuation rods on the shortest setting on the Carb actuation arms for the greatest mechanical advantage. Well this worked well, make that great, my pedal went from hard and springy to light and snappy, with a DEFINITELY end stop in pedal travel. Problem was with the short setting on the carb actuation arm the throttle was only opening 60% of the way. Next step was to move the actuation rods to the middle setting on the carb actuation arms. This was the sweet spot. I open about 90 % now and the pedal feel is pretty good. A bit heavier than a modern car, but still snappy. The solution to all of this is to get a longer actuation arm for the throttle cable. Order an extra long arm to compliment your linkage kit and you will get a light pedal with enough mechanical advantage to overcome any internal spring you may have. I have yet to drive it, but am getting a definite snap back to full closed each time. I am going to order a new longer actuation arm from Authentic Weber Carbs, Manifolds, Conversion Kits, Accessories and More! to get my 90% open to 95% open and leave it at that. I am just a test drive away from being very happy. Carb actuation Arm - YEAH Throttle Cable Actuation Arm - Boooo

yup those are the ones Blue! They are BEEEEFY

UPDATE. I installed my stiff return springs on the webers this weekend in between naps for my 2 month old. It is a realtively easy job actually, so I took the opportunity to clean the carbs completely while I had them off. When I put them back on, the force to actuate the carbs is noticeable stronger (I would say roughtly 78.543% stronger). I think I will be able to make these work now. The flappers close with a definite THUD. Next job is much easier. I need to find a very light return spring for the cable now. It becomes a balance between the return force and the actuation force. I think I am zero'ing in on it though. Keep in mind I also ordered three of the throttle lever return spring kits from the UK this weekend. It comes with that lever, a spring and an attachment plate per carb. IF this does not work, I still have that set up for anybody who is interested! More to come.

Just to help out further, let us know a little about yourself. Is this going to be your project car or will it have to be running constantly. What is skill level and what is your time alloted to work on the car? How much money do you have to spend on the car and how much is budgeted each month to fix the car? Give these questions an honest hour or two of thought. THe more honest you are with yourself the happier you will be with your purchase. Also, the greatest gem of advice is always, "buy the best car you can possibly find" Every dollar you spend up front can save you 5-10 dollars down the road.

Oh my gosh Walter I have the exact same issue! I installed a new one and did not even think I had to bend anyhting, but low and behold, I never get over 3/4 full, and I go from 3/4 full to 1/4 full in about 30 miles. Very annoying. After 10 fill ups I have figured out just how far I can go. But I still want to fix this issue one day.

The winnest rally car, I had no idea.. I would have thougth the escort was or maybe the Peogot 205 GTI

LOLLOLLOL

While we are dreaming, I am on the look out for my next project.. I want, to put a fine point on it... exactly... THIS! In red please

You are of course correct ! Personally I also belive that you should leave the Ball rods the exact same length if you can. Very small adjustements are probably okay, but many turns difference is not what I would want. If I had to choose, I choose idle... I believe having a rock solid idle is more important than being a few degrees off in flapper angle when you are 50% open. But like anything mechanical there is a compromise. Now if we can just make those nifty ball rods were were talking about in the garage!

I am running the 'performance' street shoes sold by MSA in the rear. They have been to three track days and the 1000 mile rally and are still looking fine. I would like to upgrade to the porterfield shoes if they made them one day

Well you can hardly blame the Deltawing guys for a blown motor shoehorned in at the last second. Still racing in P1 is no small task. I bet in person it looked like somthing from Battlestar Galactica runnign around the track. Reminds me of a Colonial Viper.

In tinkering with my linkage for a few days (read as weeks) I thought I would try to compile a list of things to do while setting up a triple carburetors linkage. This list is not at all perfect, and could and should be edited, but should be enough to get your carbs running well and sync’ed up. This will NOT go into jetting, as there are a bazillion threads on that. This has everything to do with getting the mechanical linkage as reliable as possible. These instructions assume you have a proper working Engine and carbs. Leaky carbs and vacuum leaks can throw you into a world of pain and frustration we that dare not venture into. So let us start some simple tools: Flat head screwdriver, small and large 8, 10, 12, mm wrenches (the more the better) Needle nose pliers (because, well, I have stubby fingers) Flash light SK synchrometer (you have to have this to balance the air flow through each choke. Do not be cheap, spend the money on this) Starting configuration: Okay you have installed your triples on your manifold, GREAT. The fuel line is hooked up and you are getting about 2.5-4 psi into your webers. I have never found THE RIGHT setting for fuel pressure. I run 3 psi, so keep it around these values and you should be okay. For this discussion I use certain terms. Lets Review, When I say: Actuation Rod: This means the long rod that is held by rod ends that are screwed into your manifold Actuation Arms: These are the Arms that attach to the Actuation Rod and work the carbs Throttle Arm Throttle Arm: The arm that is physically part of the weber carb that opens the throttle plates. Ball Rods: These are the adjustable length rods that attach the Actuation Rod to the Throttle Arm. Some kits have ball and socket ends, other have little rod ends. These are interchangeable. Throttle Cable Arm: This is the arm that is attached to the Actuation Rod that the return spring and Throttle cable attach to. (your configuration may vary as to where you have your return spring) Starting Configuration: Adjustable Ball Rods are off the car and have their length set somewhere in the middle of the min and max length. This gives you adjustability either way should you need it. You can record the length of the rods in your journal, but as long as they are the same then you should be good. Actuation Arms for each carb are on the Actuation Rod, but NOT tightened Throttle Cable Arm is on the Actuation Arm, but NOT tightened Air balance screws are all the way in. Use flathead screwdriver to remove the progression hole cover. Shine a light into the hole. As you turn the idle speed screw clockwise you should start to uncover the first progression hole. Turn the idle speed screw counterclockwise so that upon any application of the throttle the first progression hole will be uncovered. This is a close enough setting to get you started. Your idle may be way too high or too low, but this should get the car running. Replace all the covers to the progression holes Attach the ball rods to the Actuation Arms and Throttle Arms for each carb Attach the return spring to the Throttle Cable Arm Adjust the Throttle Cable Arm so that it has some tension on it. Tighten the screw or nut on the Throttle Cable Arm. This applies a closing force to push the throttle plates closed. You have to have this, as the internal return spring in the webers is not strong enough to do the job alone. NOTE: adjust the Throttle Cable Arm so that at 50% throttle the throttle Cable is perpendicular to the Throttle Cable Arm. Start the car and let warm up completely. This is why we had to attach the Ball Rods. Makes starting MUCH easier. After the car is warmed up. Loosen the Actuation Arms again. The Throttle Cable Arm will snap back with the force of the return spring. This is fine, we will put that preload on back on it before we are done. We just want to get the carbs right first, then hook up the linkage. Record the values of air flow through each choke (6 of them) with the SK meter: Carb#1 ________, _________ Carb#2 ________, _________ Carb#3 ________, _________ We have two methods to effect this value. 1) The idle speed screw can raise or lower this number, and 2) we have the air balance screws that can only raise this value. For ease of explanation, we can use an example: Carb#1 ____5____, ___4.5______ Carb#2 ____4____, ____5_____ Carb#3 ____3____, ____4.5_____ First thing we want to do is balance each carb individually. Use the air balance screws to bring up the value of the low reading for each carb to match the high reading, so your new readings should be this: Carb#1 ____5____, ___5______ Carb#2 ____5____, ____5_____ Carb#3 ____4.5____, ____4.5_____ Now that each carb is flowing the same individually, we have to sync them to each other. Before we mess with the idle speed screw, you must loosen the Actuation Rods first! After that is done, use the idle speed screws to set all the values to the lowest value, in this example, 4.5, so the end result should look like: Carb#1 ____4.5____, ___4.5______ Carb#2 ____4.5____, ____4.5_____ Carb#3 ____4.5____, ____4.5_____ Congratulations your carbs are flowing the exact same amount of air to each cylinder! HUZZAH! Now you can adjust your idle speed as necessary. To do so, Turn each idle speed screw the SAME exact amount until your desired idle speed is reached (950-1050 rpm is a good place to be) Tighten your Actuation Rods Preload the Throttle Cable Arm with a spring force and then tighten the Throttle Cable Arm. You can now start to worry about mixture, jets, tip in, transition etc. your linkage should be spot on. This is my practical approach to setting up a linkage for the first time. I tend to never adjust the Ball Rods to do any fine tuning. I like to keep those things exactly the same. That is not to say you could not use them. But I find it wise to keep as many things mechanically set on each carb instead of relying on linkages to get it right. The carb has less chance of loosing a setting in my mind. Please add any advice or comments on this as you guys see fit.

I thought I posted these pics elsewhere, but here is the work Eric did on my calipers. He ended up using mine as he was missing one side in his set of spares. Better than new I would think. Those are new Porterfield Pads I think. I will have to check what he put in there.