Zedyone_kenobi

I like where you are going there. As long as I do not uncover a progression hole I could go open more I suppose. Would need to add more fuel though. I wonder though if going down a jet size would lead to a poor idle. I could open up the idle mixture screws but then if I get close to stoich. With the throttle plates open that much I may be asking for a 1600 rpm idle speed.

i would love to see those pics

Amazing that you posted that. Mine acts the same exact way. With the engine off it snaps back immediately. When warm and running it seems to want to hang. I would not be surprised at all if the shafts were worn a bit. But these carbs only have about 2000 miles on them. Seems kinda early. But my symptoms match yours perfectly.

I may have found a solution from some Aston Martin guys in the UK. The way I see it the only way to really get around this is to apply a spring force directly to the actuation arm on each carb. So that means individual return springs. The original OEM one in the inside of the carb cannot be relied on after a while when things start to wear. So I was digging around for folks with the same problems, and thank goodness the automotive Gods have created many a sweet straight 6 in the past that webers fit. THis actuation arm has an integrated lever arm for a spring attachment. Now today I fabricated a small plate see below: The rod end holds the plate in place between two nuts (not shown). This is held off to one side and has a hole drilled in it to attach a spring. If you place these plates on the rod ends, they provide a perfect connection to that lever arm up there and PRESTO, individual throttle springs for each carb. The advantages are numerous. Guaranteed return of each throttle lever. Less clutter on the Actuation rod and throttle cable. Most likely much smaller springs can be used so the ultra heavy throttle pedal feel that some of us get would be eliminated! Needless to say I am ordering these lever arms AND fabricating two more plates!

I saved your pages from the other thread Blue, THanks, But What Leon said was right. My linkage is awesome and feels great, right up until you attach it to the carbs. I am afraid I may have to pull them out and see what is worn or what is dirty to make them hang. I absolutely hate it when I come to a stop and the engine is still at 1700 rpm. Makes you feel like you drive a jalopy.

Well what you could do is put a return spring on each carb individually. That way you can eliminate the single return spring. I may look into that. I may pull off a carb to see if I have any buildup of gunk that is making things get sticky.

I have been chasing a sticking throttle on my Webers for a while now. Every sense I got back from the rally actually. I have replaced my 5/16" rod ends with 3/8" rod ends and actuator rod. Very beefy, I am happy with these! I have gone with a new LoKar stainless cable that is smoothly run to the carbs. I was still getting sticking and the effort to push the pedal was HUGE and felt like it was moving through syrup. NOt good. It actually felt like I had a rubber band attached from the pedal to the carbs instead of a wire cable. Humm why could this be? Carb number one was the most likely culprit. When I removed the actuation ball rod ends and just blipped the throttle on one carb at a time, the idle retuned wonderfully. However, if I just push lightly on each throttle lever on each carb (say 5 degrees or so), it stuck there on each carb! I had to manually push it back to idle on each carb. Now these carbs are not old. The nuts on both sides of throttle rod that are attached to the butterflies are not overtight, but they may be off center. I have not checked that. My question is can the internal return spring be easily replaced? Or is it more likely I bent the throttle plates or throttle rods inside each carb? I do not think this could have happened, as I was extra careful to set my throttle stop inside the car to not over rotate the carbs. But that is not really the issue. THe issue I want you weber heads to help me out is, what would cause an individual Weber carb throttle lever to stick open without anything attached to it?

That is a beautiful Z for sure, but I think he is going to be outgunned. I also would have loved to see a Rebello 3.1 L6 motor in there instead of the RB engine. I know he would have given up some HP, but the sound and feel of the L6 may have won him some votes.

I had to trim my console in my 71 a bit, but if you are very careful, you can get away with using the OEM shifter boot and you simply cannot tell it is not from the factory. Take your time and I wish you the best of luck.

Travel'n Man, did they rebuild your OEM tack to OEM specifications. Our cars ignition power goes through the tach on its way to the coil as you know, so replacing the tach with one with modern guts worries me a bit. I will check out your link. THANKS guys for these ideas and link. I like the dremel idea, as I can always add a new dash cap if I have to later. That cost is trivial compared to getting my dashboard refurbished! also can you give me an idea of the cost of the service. EDIT: I just called them up and they were very nice Mitchell. I will pull mine out and have them repair it. As my OEM gage aesthetically is near perfect. Mechanically it just needs some TLC.

Removing my dash cap does not sound... um... fun. But if I do, I know what is going to happen. I am going to start saving up for one of those uber rare uncracked dashes. I know myself too well. But I want my tach to work, so I will give it a go.

You are inspiring me to buy a welder man... seriously!!!

Tried to fit my new linkage on my webers that I got from Authentic Weber Carbs, Manifolds, Conversion Kits, Accessories and More! Come to find out I ordered a kit to fit the right side of the webers instead of the left side! DOH so now I am waiting again for parts.

I have always had a partially sketchy tach. Now let me say that my tach works. Most of the time anyway. If I never rev my car past 5500rpm it would be a perfect tach. However, when I rev past 5500 rpm my tach sort of goes on strike. This was not a problem with my original motor (L24) as I never really pushed it that hard, as there was not really that much power past 6000 to be had. So it was a non issue for as long as I had the car. Below 5500 rpm it is dead reliable and smooth. Now fast forward to a higher revving L28, that likes to live between 3500-6500 rpm and now I have a tach I canont trust beyond 5000 rpm really. So my quandry is this. I have a dash cap on my car. A full cap. Been on there since I bought the car. The prospect of removing a tach with the dash cap on is daunting. As I think the tach came out of the dash toward the driver, not back to the firewall. I could be wrong. I will check the FSM. I have a spare tach in my box of spares, but I have no way of knowing if what I have in the car is a 3 wire or a 4 wire. I have to assume it is the original tach. So my questions are: 1) Has anybody removed a tach by removing it toward the firewall? Not through the steering wheel? 2) Is there a way to test my spare tach for continuity? You see what can happen here is this can go from a simple swap to a case of while I am at its. I may be inspired to pull out the entire dash and get a new one or get mine restored. I have already replaced/restored all my other gages. I really have no time to do that to be honest. Any tach removal stories?

I recommend 10w-30 oil with high ZDDP content. 20w-50 oil is probably overkill. A healthy stock engine, does not need any more than 10/30 oil unless you live in death valley. I always suspected cars with heavy oil were trying to cover up worn bearings. I would take the time to adjust the valves. It is only about an hour job, and you can sleep easy at night knowing that the valves are happy.

Man, congrats are in order John! I would love to just come by and marvel at all the amazing cars you would have. Two of my favorite marques of all time. Datsun and Porsche.

I 100% agree with you sir. How about this: Even more simple. the race is 500 miles, You can only only make 1 pit stop for tires (spec tires) AND fuel. go

Welcome partner.

Leon, I use to judge engineering competitions for high school students. Hypothetical example, They were told to make a vehcile that had to fit inside a 40 oz folgers metal coffee can that would carry an egg for a certain distance. You had to use this rubber band for your power, and everything else was open. Every year, one particular design would emerge as the best 'idea' to get the job done. And various versions of the same idea would be built. Now, if one kid was allowed to build a vehicle that fit inside a 60 oz folgers coffee can and used springs and rubber bands, would that make his idea innovative or is he just cheating? My point is no comparison can be made between the delta wing and other traditional cars, as they were built up differently. It is an apples to oranges comparison.

I am a man of laws and rules. When I was racing as short lived as that was, I had to obey the rules. I am not ready to get behind this car and call it amazingly innovative, as it lives outside the boundaries of what all the other cars do. I am not so much opposed to it as I am opposed to the hype it is getting. I would not call it innovative or ground breaking. It is just simple physics that make it work. Maybe the engineer in me does not see anything that really makes me think, what a ground breaking car. If they could make a car that would go as fast as it does, and get as much mileage as it does, still weight the same as every other LMP2 car on the grid, then that would be a crazy impressive engineering feat. But when you bend the rules and allow a car that weighs half of what the other cars weigh, is it really that amazing that it can do it with less HP and less fuel. Again, I think this is a nifty car that has some pretty out of the box design in it. But racing, as it is now, is not an out of the box game. The rules make the box. Now having said that. If they want to expand the rules to allow other cars to weigh 475 kg, then let the racing begin!!! What bugs me is that any success this car sees will be overhyped and people will go, 'SEE, how great this car is, light cars can go fast as well, and use less fuel'. But that was never an arguement. Naturally a 475 kg car with a smaller engine will go quick and use less gas than a 900 kg car. This is what I would like to see. Make the Delta Wing weigh 900 kg like the rest of the cars must weigh, and allow them to run the same engine output as the rest of the field. Then gentlemen start your engines and race. Let us see how good the design really is when it must conform to racing regulatons. OR.... Reduce the minimum weight of LMP2 cars to 475 kg and see what the chassis builders come up with. Otherwise, what are we comparing really? I just do not see the point of the car other than to be different. If you had a field of 24 Delta wings, would the racing be any different than any other series where all the rules are adhered to. What makes the car stand out is the fact that it is completely outside the rules and the design shows it. If made to fit inside the rules, and all the cars are deltawings, then it is just another spec series.

I say give them a spec series and let them duke it out. But making them mix with other cars that have to play with other rules just seems, silly.

LMP2, that is interesting. I wonder if it has to fit into all the rules of LMP2 (like minimum weight) or if they made some accomodations/exceptions. If they did make concessions I would imagine all the other teams may file protests unless they are ommited from winning points and even still they may complain. If they had to adhere to all the rules, same as anyone else, I welcome the site of them and lets go racing. If not, then no real comparison can be made for a car that is allowed special treatment. EDIT: Never mind, I saw the video now. 417 kg, guess it does not adhere to all of the rules.

What class is the Deltawing going to run in during the 2013 ALMS / Grand Am series race?

I am very interested in this one. My Z is similar year and has some nice parts on it, but if this one fetches north of 13k I will be pleased in knowing around what the market will bring if I ever decide to sell mine.

I am just here to show my support for your work and the art that Eiji creates! He is a magician with these L28's. I hope your love yours as much as I love mine!! Are you going to black out the radiator support like the OEM did?