Zedyone_kenobi

Not sure why I had better pressure with the regulator than the filter. Unless, the the filter has a check valve in it that may limit how much pressure can get through. I think I may have a look at it.

congrats BLUE! If you ever need any original OEM 71 parts, I have an entire very good running 71 block and head that ran very well before I installed my L28. Burns Zero oil and had great compression. Let me know how the restoration goes! Also have an extra spook without brake ducts if you want to install that. But its 901 silver

Totally agree but I am only getting 2 psi with it dead headed. My return line is smaller since I am using OEM sizes. We will see what happens

Yeah, my Carter could easily hit 3.5 psi as well, but the noise it made was just plain crazy. I am going to experiment a bit with the fuel line. The real reason I am messing with this, is that I want to run a return line back to the tank. I know it may not be totally necessary, but I like the idea of not having stagnant fuel in the fuel rail. When I built the rail I tapped both ends and bought AN fittings to make a return circuit. However, I need to get the fuel pressure back up, as when I add a return line, the pressure will drop a bit. I am going to use the fuel restrictor orifice that was on the OEM SU fuel rail. From doing more reading, it would seem what really matters is the amount of flow. Pressure is of course not negligible, but if you can supply enough volume, then the webers are usually happy. I have no data to back this up, just words of advice from various weber threads on numerous other automotive forums.

Do not know why, but I have some strange memory of Canon AE-1 and any motorsports events...

Well today in a bid to remove some restriction of my fuel system. I removed my holley fuel regulator. It was cranked all the way out anyway, and all the RX7 pump could muster was 2.75 psi. I am running dead headed. My question is, what is the minimum amount of fuel pressure a set of DCOE's need? I have not seen a minimum, I have read they like lots of fuel and should not have more than 5 psi, but what is in fact a good number. Reason I ask is this. I installed my holley inline filter in place of my old regulator. I figured more filtering was better (since I already have a pre-pump filter installed as well) if the pressure drop through the filter is small. Well with the filter installed the most I can achieve now is 2 psi on my fuel pressure gage. That was with the car NOT running, just sitting spinning the pump dead headed to the fuel rail. I am not sure 2 psi is enough pressure. I am going to remove the holley inline filter right before the fuel rail and see if it was contributing to any of the pressure drop. With it dead headed at no flow, I would not think it would matter one bit. I dearly love how quiet my new pump is, but wonder if it is up to the task of fueling my carbs.

You are going to LOVE your DatsunSpirit engine!!!

No no doubts sir, none, just had never seen one like that before. To my eyes it was strange looking, but I had no idea it was an early BRE edition.

JFA that front spook has a strange shape to its sides.... Mine has a totally different angle. My front view: My side view

I cry foul, need more pictures of that beauty now BEN!

Not sure, but you probably have some trapped air in the nylon oil pressure line and that may be slowing or at least making your gage sluggish.

Why not keep it and rebuild it?

Well I will echo what the poster found in that thread on JNC. I upped to 32mm chokes and I found out I had lost some of that instantaneous throttle response. Car also has a slight stumble with the current jet setup I am running as well. I have a lean spot that I think I can tune out with proper accelerator pump settings. But I have not messed with those at all up to this point. I will need to do some research. But it is a fact that when you change the chokes to a larger size, the velocity through that throat section is slower and will make lower rpm operation a bit more fickle. I have not looked at my AFR gage in two weeks now, as I am just having fun driving her, but I may make one last swipe through the jets and see what I can come up with to address that lean spot in 4th gear when I transition to the mains from low rpm to high rpm at part throttle.

I would suggest you contact Eiji at www.datsunspirit.com as well. He will have more information on this as well, as I think his orange car runs this set up. He does whole lot more than just build engines!

I would suggest you contact Eiji at www.datsunspirit.com as well. He will have more information on this as well, as I think his orange car runs this set up. He does whole lot more than just build engines!

That is a lot of idle oil pressure! Wow. That must have been when it was cold right? ON another note. I agree the OEM gages are just barely better than a idiot light. They tell you what you engine may have been doing about 10 seconds ago. HAHA I thought my brand new DatsunSpirit engine had Zero oil pressure at idle. Sort of freaked me out. But when I hooked up a mechanical gage, it has about 18 to 20 psia at idle, and 60+ at cruise. The OEM gage will not read above 45 psi after warm no matter what. I soldered the connection to the sending unit which helped some, and I bet if I cleaned off the terminals on back of the OEM gage it would read just fine. But the mechanical gage put all worries to rest.

NIce install. I like the way they peek out at you!

For now, yes. I wanted to run summer tires on the rally. I currently have AS tires on the VTO. They look great. But those are 195/60 all season bridgestones, and they are good tires. But no all season no matter how good, is as good to drive as a dedicated summer tire. So I found some 205/55 yokohama's and needed to put them on a set of rims. I had the panasports unmounted and available, so I put them on those. I will run my VTO as my daily driving wheel, and use the panasports for track and rally duty. I would love to see how the VTO's would look with 205/55's. They are substantially wider than the 195 visually. I think the VTO needs a lot of meat to look just right. While the 195's are an easy tire to live with day to day, the added grip of the 205's is nothing to sneeze at. If I could sell my 195/60/15's I would. I would put some yokohama S drives on the VTO as well. I love how they look without the centercaps. Very much like the John Morton 240Z, which is what I really want my car to pay homage to. I have not abandoned the VTO's, They are stored in a climate controlled storage building for after the rally. I love them both to be honest. I could not depart with the panasports, and as soon as they were on, I started missing the VTO LeMans. They are both wonderful wheels.

48 days to the rally. Time is getting close and in preparation, every chance I get to get in the car and drive I am! Every chance I get to stress out the parts, I am. Today was a different kind of day. All my chores were done, and the wife and kid were happily occupied. I took the chance to take the car out for a short 40 minute drive around town in traffic and on the free way. It was the kind of day where as a driver I was not diagnosing anything. The car simply wanted to be driven. Every overpass was a concert. Every curb was a resonate echo of a perfectly running L28. Every gear noise and every shift felt perfect. It was one of those days where you leave the AFR gage in the glove box with the door closed. You fill her up with gas until she is full, and then with a heavy belly you let her slowly stretch her legs and just go. It was more like playing an instrument than driving a car. Every turn, every merge, every application of the throttle produced immediate and smile inducing physical reactions. The brakes felt strong and the car was simply wanting to never come home. The more I drive this engine, the smoother it runs, the more OEM like it feels. With every mile that ticks the sublime magical feeling of bonding between man and machine becomes a reality. You start to look at the new engine less like a stranger under the hood and more like a new lifelong friend. Confidence replaces doubt. Trust replaces caution. The engine starts to become one with the car. The rock steady tack at every stop light and stop sign seem to dare me to drive harder. The needle unwavering at 1000 rpm at idle after a vicious romp on the throttle through all the gears indicates that all is well and with a stiff look says, "thank you sir, can I have another" In short the car was not a project today. The car was not in diagnosis mode, the car was just a car, that was ready to be enjoyed. And that is exactly what we did. WE just drove! And she ran flawlessly. The next stop is the TEXAS 1000. 48 days until the automotive adventure of my lifetime fills my memories and this very thread! Stay tuned.

Very clean install man.

Congrats Tom, that looks so much like my car when I first got it, it is crazy. Well at least under the hood. I had that same york compressor and control kit on my center console. Mine stopped working shortly after I got the car as well, and I just yanked it. Some would say in houston that was not a good idea, but I really do not miss it. First up I would recommend a complete tune up. Change out/check the points, put in new plugs, and make sure the timing is spot on. Should be 5 deg BTDC at idle. Then you are going to want to check for any vacuum leaks. You only have a handful of hoses that could be causing a leak. Next you are probably going to want to make sure you are getting fuel to the SU's. After that you are getting into more SU tuning aspects. Make sure you are getting fuel and spark then tackle the carbs LAST. Your groaning sounds like you may have a tire rubbing on the OEM body work. Your tire sizes are not large, but I had the same groaning and it was a rubbing tire when I backed up. I bought some universal T's to redo all the hoses from my squirter bottle to my nozzles.

OH blue, thanks for reminding me. I meant to include that the 180 Air Corrector reintroduced the slight lag in between the progression circuit and the primary circuit. This happened with the 30mm chokes as well. When I went down to the 170 Air corrector with the 30mm chokes it was gone. I tried the 180 Air corrector on my L24 as well before the engine swap and I had a noticeable flat spot between the two circuits. The 170 air corrector fixed that there too. I wanted to give them a try again with the bigger chokes, but the transition stumble was back. I have installed the 170 air corrector again, and I will see what the AFR is at 4 and 6. I have hard time getting 6k rpm 3rd gear runs,as that is really darn fast on public roads! But I will see what I can get you Blue. Hopefully those 120 mains will be on your doorstep this week or early next week . I kind of wish I had 125 mains. I feel another order of jets coming on.

Well I took the Z out for a drive with its new 32mm chokes. I made all the appropriate jet changes to come to this configuration: 130 main Up from 120 main 180 air corr Up from 170 Air corr 55F9 idle Up from 50F9 My first impression was that there was no change. It still idled as smooth as it ever had (no small part to finally getting the air flow through them perfectly balanced). With the 55F9 idle jets, I get 13.9 to 14.7 AFR on steady state cruise at about 60 mph. Even better when I tip into the throttle the AFR drops to only about 12.8 or so. Very nice. At wide open throttle the power improvement is not trivial. It just seems to have more legs up top. It pulls with more authority. So all would seem to be well. But is it? The answer is mostly, yes, and a little no. As one might have expect the throttle response is NOT nearly as sharp as with the 30mm chokes. 32mm is definitely on the ragged edge of what I would want to have in a street car. Not that it feels sluggish, or laggy. It does not. It response to all the inputs I give it in the gas pedal. But not nearly as sharply as before. The engine with the 30mm chokes seemed to want more air all the time. So any opening of the throttle plate made the engine just respond like getting a breath of fresh air after surfacing from the water after a long dive. The engine seems more relaxed with the 32mm, it idles better (not sure chokes should make a hill of beans at idle though), and the ferocity of the upper rpm is notable. So long story, for a street car 30mm chokes will work fine on a L28, and give you immediate throttle response that makes a car VERY fun to drive on the back roads. But for a car with deeper lungs, the 32mm are the ticket. If you track your car and live in the higher rpm, I can completely recommend 32mm chokes maybe even bigger. My cliff notes is that going to 32mm chokes is not a holy grail of modifications to webers. There is a downside. The magnitude of that down side depends on your personal preference and what you value.

You guys are too kind and do not forget, if this car represents any quality at all, you can give yourself a pat on the back, as the collective knowledge from the members on this board is what made it possible.