Zedyone_kenobi

Getting the Z ready for the rally means Summer tires. Period. Determined not to go 16" rims when I have two sets of 15" rims, means I had to stay within a narrow size band. With the stock body work I was limited to 195/60/15's. When I ran 205/60/15's I had rubbing on the drivers side when I turned the wheel. This is common. So wanting a wider footprint and not wanting to run super short tires, I decided to look for 205/55/15's. The problem is, there is not much on the performance side in this side, but the following two tires... The dunlop Direzza And the Yokohama S drive I am a fan of both of these brands, and I know many of my friends who use the Direzza with great success while autocrossing. However they get loud quickly. I did what any of us would do, and went to tire rack to compare the two. The S drives seem to get better ratings, but just barely. So I went with them, as they seem to have more grip and they are quieter. Sold. To compare sizes, this is how the two sizes stack up on a 15x7 rim. I will get pictures outside tomorrow if it is not raining. :paranoid:

The weather is finally clearing up and I had time to get the old gal back on the road. I did install the 60F9 jets AND the 120 mains. Low and behold the results were fabulous. Well they were good. My AFR at part throttle cruising in all gears is about 13.5:1, and when I give her the beans, there is no flat spot to be felt. EVER. Going WOT and up in the RPM I am getting about 12.5:1 and it gets more and more rich as RPM climbs, but slowly. I know the 30 mm chokes are going to make her run rich on the top end. So for now I am going to order some 115 mains as spares, but drive it exactly like it is. When it gets colder in the fall and winter I should be just fine. Right now this is the setup: 120 Main Jets 170 Air Corrector F11 Emulsion Tube 60F9 Idle jets Car feels like it found 30 more HP in the mid RPM band now that it is not so rich, and the pull up above 3000 feels just spectacular. Still I cannot really wring it out because the engine is so new, so I intend to put a hundred miles on her tomorrow weather permitting.

I think every car on that list is stunning with the exception of the mopar. Some cars make me stop and stare for very long periods of time. Most of the cars on that list do just that. The comments section has many gripes about now deusenbergs or Bugattis. I just do not find those earlier cars captivating. Incredibly well built yet, but they do not capture my imagination as much as an E-type jag does.

Blue, could you drive in 4th gear up to 3000 rpm with the main Etubes removed? That is fascinating.

Well, V8's are more of a 45 degree slope... if you want to get picky

OH I agree, The amount of variables that contribute to fuel delivery from the carbs to the engine is staggering. Head, exhaust, camshaft profile, carb chokes, ignition, Valve lash, etc. Its all contributes to how much vacuum the carb sees, and what is the strength of that vacuum. Such a wonderfully complex thing to tune, and when you think about how Webers are built, and how many ways you can tailor them to accommodate so many variables, the beauty of the design is amazing.

55F9 is a great idle jet for L28. It is so close for me. I could probably get away running with it all the time as it is only lean under VERY low load, steady state cruising in 3rd and 4th gear. I am surprised that your mains are so rich! But every car is different. I am betting the bigger choke on your cars allow you to run more fuel in the mains as you are getting more air. My 30mm chokes are making my 130 mains very rich indeed. I may need to get some 32mm chokes.

Choke lever.

I would say just rebuild the OEM braking system. It is more than fine for daily driver and quite adequate for occasional track fun days. Just put in good pads and fluid and you are set. Keep the car built for the majority of the driving you will do. Do not build a monster for the 1% of the fun days you will take it to the track.

Could be an exhaust leak, the ticking noise you hear...

I currently have Installed: 170 Air correctors 130 Main jet F11 Emulsion Tube 55F9 Idle Jets Updated Loanable tuning jets: 180 Air corrector 160 Air corrector 140 Main jets 130 Main jets 55F8 idle jet 50F9 idle jet parts coming in: 120 Main jet 60F9 idle jet

Congrats buddy! Glad you are getting her broken in okay. NOthing like it. I am only at about 50 miles on mine. Just cannot seem to find the time to run her around. Plus I am fiddling with the jets and linkages on the webers. But I love the way the car feels. Cannot wait to see pics of your car.

OOOO, I am a Keith Frank believer...Are you using those Leon? If so, how are they? Just checked them out..To purchase the hypojets and the hybojet insert it will run you 150 dollars plus shipping. The 28 Hypojet insert is about the same as the 60F9 idle jet I have ordered according to Mr. Franck. I am not sure if the 'improved tunability' of the hypojets would make me want to dump 150 bucks into this setup though. granted I have spent much more than that already , but I have options. If I buy the wrong idle jets, I am out 42 bucks. But if I buy the wrong hypojet inserts, I am out 150 bucks. Well, really just 90 bucks, as I can reuse the hypojet housings. I am tempted to try, as I am a carburetor fanatic just to see the difference. Tell you what I am willing to do. I will get the 60F9 idle jet in, and I will see if it is as perfect as I think it is going to be. I will then order the KF setup and give it a try. I would be fascinated to know the difference. Here is KF weber store. I see the Emulsion Tube 02 is for 30 mm choked carbs. I wonder how it compares, but at 40 bucks a copy, that is EXPENSIVE http://www.webstore.com/82598,owner_id,other_items

I have been meaning to drive around and finally did right before a rain today. I was on vacation and the car had to sit waiting for tuning. But the change from the 55F8 to the 55F9 produced a very rich idle and brought the low rpm mixture down from from a lean 15.9 to 16.4 to around mid 15's. I went driving around and noticed aside from having to change my mixture screws up at idle, not much else changed. So I went and installed the 50F9's I had. this was a smaller fuel orifice along with the same size air orifice. Well my 4th gear cruise at 55ish miles per hour is a golden standard I am using. Leaving everything else the same... 4th gear at 55 mph; which equates to 2500 rpm with very little pedal input. 55F8 AFR 16.5 - 16.9:1 50F9 AFR 15.5 - 15.9:1 55F9 AFR 14.8 - 15.1:1 The dramatic change in AFR tells me that my main circuit may not be coming in strong yet, as my idle jet seems to be still in the drivers seat. The AFR at steady state cruise around 14.8 - 15.1:1 seem okay to me and mean I am around stoichiometric if not a tad on the lean side, but for steady state cruising, at little to no load, this could be a good economy for long trips. Now lets us talk about what happens when I give her the beans! Well the AFR plummets. How low. I have seen as low as 10.7:1. This is obviously not what I am looking for, as that is far too rich, and the blurble out of the exhaust when shifting from 1st to 2nd, seems I have some extra fuel in there not burning off. I have thought for a while that 130 mains were a bit too rich. I would like to see my AFR drop to 12:5 in WOT conditions, not in the 11's or 10's. I will keep going down jet sizes until I get the mixture where I would like it under WOT. This is the only way to tune Webers as far as I can tell. You have to invest in jets and then set up some simple and controlled tests. Write down what you find. I am happy with where I am right now on on the idle jet. I would like it be a bit richer though, as it is close to 100 deg F right now and when it gets cold, things will get a bit leaner. I like where I am with the 55F9 idle jet. However, I want to go richer. So would the right thing to do be to order the 60F9 jet, or the 55F13? I honestly do not know. You see the the 60 has a larger fuel orifice, while the F13 has a smaller air bleed orifice. Both will get more fuel into the system, but achieve it differently. Not sure which would be the right one. The easy answer is to buy both. But these get expensive, and I have not found a supplier of F13 idle jets. So I used my favorite carb supplier (http://www.carburetion.com) to get some 120 DCOE mains and a 60F9 idle jet. I am narrowing down on this tune. I will be darn close with this last order. The principle tuning method of 'suck it and see' is very very true, but I cannot even fathom how hard and how LONG this would take without a wideband O2 sensor.

Awesome job! What was that for? What series? Did you catch that 350Z

That was my old set up, but it was a completely OEM L24 with a MSA 6-2-1 Header with a 12" resonator... and a complete 2.5" exhaust pipe up to the ANSA.

Well I just ran my checkout... With the ignition module getting 12 volts, and the green wire going straight to the negative side of the coil, and the brown side grounded, I hooked up a voltmeter with the black lead to the engine ground, and the red wire to the negative side of the coil. The positive side is getting 11.99 volts, and the negative side never got above 1.9 volts. According to Mallory this is a failed ignition module, as it is incorrectly charging the coil when it is not suppose to. The instant I unhooked the green Mallory wire to the coil, the voltage across the coil on both sides was basically the battery voltage.. as it should be. So summit is going to replace it... Funny thing is the pertronix acted the same exact way. With the pertronix hooked up I was getting the same huge voltage drop across the coil, only the car would start and run just fine. I am thinking that is just an artifact of the Pertronix as it has worked for well over 2 years in this configuration. OH my coil was 1.5 Ohm as well.

I think am running a 3 kOhm coil, but I have a 1.5kOhm coil on the shelf. I spent some time doing musical dizzys when I was chasing my popping issue a while back. So I will have to verify what is in there. I have not run the basic ignition module test called out online yet. I have to verify the ignition module is not toast first. But after that I will try almost anything. The biggest issue I see around the web is not the voltage supplied to the ignition module (ie red wire), but the rather the power of the spark from the coil that tends to toast it. I found nothing in the instructions that tell me to run a XX kOhm coil. I did not check to see what Mallory's coil has across it.

This deserves an answer...

Okay, I know this is a thread about the L24 that I started, but I thought it would be great to start with one weber setting for say a OEM L24, and trace the tuning required to get the same carbs to run well on a modified L28. Which is exactly what I am trying to do now. My current settings are: 40 DCOE webers 30mm chokes 130 main jets 170 Air correctors F11 Emulsion Tube 55F8 I forget the accelerator pump sizing, but for now lets not worry about that, as I think if you get the jetting right, the accelerator pumps will be fine over a very wide range. My L28 specs are important to this thread as well. As you need to know what I am coming from and what I am going to: 2.8L N42 block N42 head .472 lift cam 10.5:1 compression Ross forged pistons OEM L28 crank OEM L28 rods 6-2-1 ceramic coated header Pertronix igniter and flamethrower coil 9 lb flywheel Standard Cannon Intake manifold When I first put the carbs on the new L28 from the L24, I did not so much as adjust anything. I wanted a straight out of the box run. Well the L28 would not even start on the original L24 settings. I had to turn the mixture screws over 3.5 complete turns out from fully seated before I got it to idle. Obviously not the best setting. :stupid: My AFR at that point was about 13:1, and I could get it to 12.5 with some tweaking. The engine idled fine and settled down to about 950 - 1000 rpm with ease. Driving at steady state speeds at low rpm in 4th gear you could feel the engine surge just a tad and the AFR's were about 15.9 - 16.5:1. This is way lean for steady state cruise. In 3rd gear the numbers would improve a tad to mid 15's, and in second it would be low 15's, high 14's. All of these values were at low rpm steady state cruise at around 2000 rpm. Giving it gas would bring the numbers back into the 12's but that is probably due to the accelerator pumps fuel input. When we got back to steady state cruise it would be VERY lean again. So this afternoon, I started the rejetting process. I got the car started and back up to normal operating temp (which in my case is about 180 Deg). I was still at about 11.9:1 AFR at idle. If I tried to lean it up a bit the engine would slow down. So the first thing I changed out was to change the 55F8 idle jet to a 55F9 idle jet. This basically means the fuel orifice was not changed, but the air orifice in the idle jet is smaller. Upon start up, the AFR was immediately 10.9:1. This makes perfect sense. Keep in mind the air corrector acts like a vacuum bleed. Going smaller means the vacuum signal will have more of an effect in pulling fuel up the idle jet. I was able to turn the mixture screws in to get the AFR back to 12.5:1. When I shut the car off, I counted the turns I was out from full lean. Keep in mind with the 55F8's I was 3.5+ turns out. Now with the 55F9's I am 1.75 turns out from full lean. Next report will be to see how much effect the idle jets has on my lean steady state low rpm cruise. When tuning webers, you must have the engine up to temp, and then only change ONE Thing at a time, and record the results. Write them down in a book or in a web forum (or in my case, both! ) I will go for a drive tomorrow, and let you guys know what the results are

Greetings fellow Texas Z owner!

Mdec Yes it is that model I hooked it up again last night Again zero spark is reaching the plug wires I tried every conceivable configuration of wiring I found here and in the instructions provided by Mallory I will begin troubleshooting the ignition module this weekend

I will test the dizzy as soon as I can with your advice I will also take a pic of the O2 sensor as soon as I can

In my defense, they were Hanes Ankle socks... so it was perfectly safe...

I have two of these, if this sells, I am going to be selling one and picking up some new parts for the Z.