Zedyone_kenobi

This is a great looking website, It is so great to see everything we talked about now in front of the world to see. All the options and possibilities that he offers to his customers in engine building is great.

Are you ever going to try a Unilite? That wan you can totally customize your ignition advance

Guy, that is beautiful! I cannot wait to see a video of it firing up! Bravo!

I am just chiming in to wish Grant the best of luck in his quitting smoking! Hang in there, you can do this! Think of the money you will save!!!

Thanks very much for all the kind words, I will keep the photos coming, and I will make a video of the whole start up when I finally get the exhaust hooked up and the fuel system hooked up. But I am thinking it will take at least a week for all that.

May I be the first to chime in and say DAYAM your paint is shiny!

Today some serious progress got made. I was able to get the manifold and intake installed and torqued up in what seemed like a instant in time. I recall the first time I ever removed my intake and it was nothing short of arm wrenching. Not sure, but if I had to guess, experience and technique must account for more than people give it credit for. I torqued every nut to 10 ft.lbs or as close as I could get with my deflection style torque wrench. I also got my water neck installed and new thermostat. I went with a 180 deg thermostat. I previously ran a 160, but I think i should be fine. If nothing else, I will get to see who much delta there is in my temp ducer. After I got that done, I hated to go inside as garage time is hard to come by at times. So I kept pressing, and got the carb springs and lock nuts on. But they are not tightened. I still need to get the heat shield on. But first wanted to put some insulation on it. I have meant to do that since I received the heat shield. More on that later. Here is how the beast looked when she was in the process of the installation And here is how she looks now: As you can see the parts to install bench is getting very barren. What a joyful sight. The absence of things to do. As for the heat shield, I found this adhesive reflective tape in the hot rod section of my local parts store. I decided to coat the bottom of the heat shield with it. Tomorrow, I want to try to get the carbs torqued and the fuel system hooked up. But I am surprising my wife tomorrow by taking her to the Houston Symphony so I may just put that off until Sunday. Have to keep the ones you love happy, or else one day she may realize that she can do MUCH better than me!

I think many of these Z were wrecked and were never mentioned to the new owners. I found out the same thing, but I do not think the wreck was that severe, as I have no misalignment issues that I can tell, but you did the right thing and properly fixed the whole car. Good man!

Are those 205/50's Car looks just amazing. Your giving me more fuel to finish my build right now!

That is interesting. I will have to look into a set of those if for no other reason than to see that type of ball joint Tonight after the family goes to sleep, I think I may try to get the header and intake manifold on. I first thought I would wait until I got the collector flange back form JET HOT, but now that I think about it, I can always take the rear exhaust off the hangers and have it modified to fit. I would really not want to modify or bend the header trying to force a fit, so I will get that in place and fit perfectly first, and then make the rest of the system conform to it. Well that is the plan anyway. OH horns are staying in the way they are. I will rock the red unless it looks too much like a reject from Hot Import Nights when I get the grill and hood on. FYI, I have also removed the front bumper vertical uprights near the lights. I wanted to see what a bare straight bar on my car looks like. I am not sure just yet if I will leave them on or off. I will have to make that decision prior to finally installing the bumper, because you cannot remove them once the bumper is on the car. At least I have not found a way. Anyway, that is something I have been up to while waiting, but tonight I plan to make some SERIOUS headway into getting that header and intake on. Pics to follow.

Matias, thanks for the kind words, all my threads end up like this, very wordy and full of pictures! I am interested in this Uniball you speak of. I will do some digging around on McMasterCarr.

Man, I simple LOVE the Gnose on your car. I think if it were me I would take off the side and rear valances to expose the vintage lines, but the way your car looks right now it all seems to work just right. VERY nice

This evening I cleaned up the garage, put 1.5 quarts of royal purple in the transmission, hooked up the speedometer cable, connected and tested the reverse lights, put the neutral switch plug back in, and installed the shiny new Hella Horns. I am questioning the color of the horns. What do you guys think?

That is a great tip. I have long wished to tidy up both footwell compartments. Great tip Blue

Keep in mind the small squirter does not inject less fuel, it injects fuel over a longer period of time. A larger squirter will dump the same volume of fuel faster. Happy tuning.

wow, that picture above really makes my door look shabby.. NO, stay the course Zedyone!... One project at a time.

Here are the pictures I promised you. THe black shift lever is the MSA short shifter. This shifter requires the use of small ears that fit on to the two tabs at the base of the transmission. These tabs raise the fulcrum substantially as you can see. This shortens the throws, but makes the effort to shift enormous. It also makes fitting the stock console an impossibility. The stock lever to the right is much more adaptable to a 71 and early Z that came with a Type A shifter. I was able to enlarge the opening using the Type B shifter boot as a template. THen I drilled some small holes at each opening in the boot and was able to use sheet metal screws to secure the metal shift boot ring down to the transmission tunnel. Then the grinding of the OEM center console started. I am not going to lie, it hurt me to grind that console. But in the end I think it was worth it. After many test fits, and some very harsh treatment of my fuse box (poor thing gets crushed each time I take it in and out of that narrow console opening) I was able to get the shifter to work with the OEM boot. That chord hanging down is my Innovative LC1. I need to find a way to reroute it to the O2 sensor. I use to go through the shift boot, but really did not want to mess with a good thing this time. I may have to swallow my pride and do it again, but I would hate to cut a slit in that brand new shift boot.

Looks great. Yes, 1x6 is probably better, good call. I got my OEM shifter in, I will take pics comparing it to the MSA short shifter....I think I may be good now...but I will find out if it fits after I put my little one to sleep tonight.

Mike it seems we think alike I am currently doing the exact same thing all the way to the stainless throttle rod from mcmasterr

You may be onto something there. I will give that some serious thought

Sure have Frank, but just backing these out 3-4 turns still leaves 80% full thread depth engaged into the manifold. I think that will be fine considering the extremely low torque these see. I will still locktite them in for good measure though

Doldrums. Sailors use to hate them. THe long wait between wind and the much desired forward movement that keeps a project rolling. Well my friends, I find myself in the automotive doldrums. Caught in between two projects, I just do not have the parts to go forward. On the interior, I want to get my OEM shifter in for the type B tranny. I fit the MSA short shifter in and the quality is so poor I do not like it. It adds VAST amounts of forward and rearward slop to the action of a perfectly designed factory shifter. I notched out my console to make the much taller MSA shifter fit, and while I could bolt the console up, the shifter still hit it when I put it in 1st and 3rd. Now this is not so much the consoles fault as it is the shifter lever. The MSA short shift kit moves the shifter fulcrum up almost an inch over the OEM one. It is a very crude design and I should not have been tricked by the S shaped handle. But lesson learned. For Type A to Type B tranny swaps, the MSA short shifter is not a solution. So I wait in the doldrums to finish the interior On the engine/transmission front. I wait. Duldrums. The entire passenger side of the engine is done, completely. I have not even started the drivers side. Two things are holding me up. First, I need to get my collector pipe back from the muffler shop that is welding my O2 Bung on. I cannot even try to fit the exhaust up without that piece, since it fits to both the header AND the exhaust pipe. Since I cannot fit the exhaust, I cannot fit the intake as you fine fellows know. I am not going to mount the water intake with the thermostat until the intake and the exhaust are on so they do not get in the way. So the passenger side is on hold....So I wait. I took the liberty to refine the fit on the studs of the CANNON manifold the webers fit on. You see, the kit they provide for you comes with nice new studs, but they do not tell you to NOT screw them in all the way. IF you do that, when you go to mount the lower locking nuts OVER the springs you do not have enough thread sticking out to start the nut! It can be a cause for much foul language. So I started to back all the studs on the bottom out about 1/8". Easy enough. Then I come to a perplexing discovery. Upon trying to reattach the throttle bar where all the throttle arms attach to and actuate all the webers, I notice the CANNON manifold is not properly aligned. Let me explain. The CANNON manifold has three holes drilled and tapped where three rod ends screw into it. These rod ends hold the throttle linkage bar. When I screw in my rod ends into my manifold, I notice that one is distinctly not lined up with the others. This is cause for my slow throttle return at times. I noticed my pedal always had more effort than it should have, and at times the weaker return spring did not quite get it back to idle as it should when you let off the gas pedal. This misalignment was causing some mild binding. I need to find a way to fix this. More pics to come.

Get a wooden stick (like a sawed off broomstick), and put one end on your ear. Then move it around to the alternator, water pump, AC pulley, etc. When you hit the object making the noise you WILL hear it.

No I am sorry, I am saying if you are planning to drop the transmission with the engine still in the car, you will need 15" of room to get the bell housing out form under the body frame rails and fender. I actually advice if you are going to pull the engine and transmission out as a unit, you should try to get the back of the car up higher than the front. THe front I would suggest the height of the floor jack under the engine crossmember. Keeping the front lower than the back means you will need FAR less angle tilt on the engine to get it in. I also have an extra engine Tilter if anybody needs one. My 2 ton engine hoist came with one as a bonus I did not know about. So if anybody is planning to pull an engine / transmission, let me know and I can mail you my extra harbor freight one. No idea of the quality, but it is brand new and still in the box.

I am in awe, AWE I tell you!! that is insane!!! And it is not many places in the world that people will understand what your talking about! HAHAHA