Zedyone_kenobi

nope, and I really wanted to see this video, as I was thinking of getting another Hero camera. I have the original hero and the audio is just rubbish while you drive... As you can see here. I had the sensitivity turned down for this run, it was worse when it was turned up. I also had tried this with the case fully closed AND with the case drilled with some sound holes.

I just did the same modification Arne. I put in two speakers and I think I used kenwoods as well. You are right, there is not much out there in that size that shallow.

You know what Guy, I keep finding threads with pic of your herd of Z's in it, and it keeps making me want to take off my VTO LeMans Rims I just got and put my Panasports back on! DRAT!!!

IF I get a vote, I think the scarab idea is brilliant. If you have to modify a 240Z hood, why not go something the old school datsun guys did. Popping at high RPM is an issue that is near and dear to my heart. Lets just say that it could be a GREAT many things. Fix the easy ones first. Then after you go freaking nuts, buy webers. HAHAHA

Well I did not repaint the firewall as you can plainly tell in my photos. Just too much removing of things I just recently installed like brake booster, clutch master cylinder, etc. But I did my best on the inner fender on the drivers and passengers side. I used a rattle can for the whole process to answer your question Ben. and a WHOLE lot of drop lots and masking tape. Overspray is just terrible. That is why I have the huge drop cloth on the car in the pics. I used this company, that www.automotivetouchup.com They paint match 901 silver in rattle cans, pints, brush on touch ups, etc. Whatever you like. Since my car was repainted some 15 years ago and the color is just very close to 901 on the respray, you can imagine that this mix is not 100% spot on. But I will say this, for the engine bay, in any light you choose, I would dare you to tell the difference. It is that close. I think both my inner fenders look very nice now, and I am quite pleased. They also sell the compatible sandable primer, base coat, and clear, all in rattle cans. So there is no guesswork if it will work together. I sanded everything with 320 grit until it was smooth and free of any blemishes. Then I hit it with the sandable primer 2x and hit it gain with 500 grit. Then I applied two coats of base 901 silver, and then 2 coats of clear. It was really super easy with the engine out. And it shines quite well. Will I regret not doing the entire engine bay. Probably at times, but for the most part, I can always do the upper firewall with the engine still in the car if it gets too annoying. I think I can just clean off most of that grime anyway. My car gets driven fairly often so I can live with it being a non concourse quality. Truth be told, I have been bitten too many times by the while I am at it bug, so I wanted to keep this detour to a minimum. Still so much work to be done on the install.

bummer, I noticed today that the boot on my brand new tie rod end that I just put on last month split in half! Guess the tire hanging down at such an extreme angle split the rubber, but man you would think that would not happen. I wonder if MSA would warranty that part.

Well one hour later and today was the day. I got that bad boy in there! Had to remove the front bumper to get the engine back enough, but managed to get her in there! Now it is time to really start the clock. I have to get all the assessories bolted to her and then turn the key

I use them. I would always use them. If for nothing else, than if gas leaks out of the carbs, it will not drip directly on the header.

Already have them on all the brakes! But the slave is not a bad idea at all bud!

Okay, this is the radiator comparison that was asked for. Both of my radiators are 3 core, and not original 71 240Z rads. The one I have looks to be similar to the one Black dragon sells. But the PO installed it 10 years ago according to the records. My car had a slight front end accident in its past, so I would wager it was replaced at that time. They are darn near exactly the same size in all dimensions. in width they are nearly identical. Well my plan is to just use the stock clutch fan that I currently run on my old radiator. I never used a shroud of any kind. I would rather have the mechanical fan vs the electric. Plus I already have it. So why spend more money. Hopefully this rad fits just as wells my last one and the fan will never touch it.

On quick question, what is the torque rating on those engine to transmission bolts? I looked at my 72 FSM and did not find anything. The just say reinstall the opposite how you took it off. I will search my other other Datsun books, for this, unless you guys have that number off the top of your head.

No problem, I will snap those pics today for you. I got the engine and transmission mounted yesterday. I used a trick I think I heard Blue mention a long time ago. I used 4 head bolts to screw into the block when the transmission was close enough. This allowed me to get the block 95% there before I ever tried to engage a spline. Then it was just a matter of scooting the tranny close to the engine on the transmission jack and give it a wiggle and it slid right on. NO issues at all. Man I almost had to laugh out loud when it went in, as I remember the days lying on my back installing a turbo 350 transmission in my Trans Am as a kid. Amazing the things we did before we had the tools to make life easier... I honestly am not sure how I managed to live this long. LOLLOL But I finished the respray of the inner fender and radiator support, and it looks so clean and new. Well newer anyway. Here you can see after I got the transmission aligned and mated, I just removed one head bolt at a time and replaced it with a standard engine/tranny bolt. Here is my inner fender. I need to do something to tidy up those wires, and add some new wire loom. I also want to take some scotch bright to all the brake lines and clean them up a bit. I think some new shiny gold zinc plated bolts holding on the fender would be ideal as well. But I have to stop somewhere on this.

Those hangers for that pink hose are lovely! I must find some, but the curious thing is that second hose holder toward the back is usually where the divider pipe goes to divert coolant to the heater core and then to the intake via the wrap around pipe. I wonder why it is not shown on that pic. I must go in search of those hose clamps.

Thanks for the info guys! I installed my reverse switch yesterday and plugged my neutral switch port. I will install the shim where you suggest Michael, thanks! Last night I was able to get the final batch of parts painted. I had to order a gasket that goes in between the cylinder head and thermostat housing. For some reason, the Nissan thermostat kit did not come with that. I also need to get a new O2 sensor bung from Innovative Motorsports as the one welded to my old housing is CRAZY gorilla welded and I do not think it would survive the removal process. Today I want to try to get the transmission ready for install. I have to install the boot, the clutch fork, throw out bearing, collar or sleeve, and apply grease. Should be smooth. So far things have progressed beautifully. No major hiccups. My new 3 core aluminum radiator came in today from Champion. Have heard mixed reviews about these things, But I will give it a try. Hopefully it is durable enough for road use. More pics to come today.

In anticipation of needing to enlarge the hole for the Type B tranny, I ordered a new 72Z inner shifter boot. Well I had no idea I needed to order a trim ring to hold it down. Does anybody have an extra one of these. I may have to contact Z car source. Also, I got my new reverse sensor in, but I am puzzled where to hook it up. You can see two places a sensor could go (in the new Type B in the back ground), but which one would it be. I know on later Z cars, there was a sensor in place to pull timing in the higher gears, so one of those holes must be for that, but which one is for the reverse lights?

Well that makes sense, as to where I found it, and when I found it, but could a shim that thin be used for? I have no idea. But I will check my pictures to see if it is in there anywhere.

Well I never used my HF leveler. I used the Torin leveler that came with my 2 ton hoist. I have 9 foot ceilings in my garage. My advice is this. Keep the chains from the leveler to the engine mounting points short. Also, get chains that are far stronger than you need. If the engine is under extreme angles, I had situations where one single chain was holding up the engine AND tranny, so the extra margin was welcome.

Nothing crazy fun to report. I have just been cleaning parts, and getting ready for some painting. I have been moving parts from one engine to the next as I get them cleaned. I will have to have some kind of sale on engine parts soon. I just cannot store all these different parts.

to have that much dedication to a project to photo document it so thoroughly with this in mind is staggering. I cannot even fathom the spare time he must have on his hands! ANd lets hear it for that black and decker workmate...!!!!! It got a real workout!

OH man, Okay, lets be clear. I use to run Holleys on all my Drag Cars I use to play with. I started with typical vacuum secondaries then moved on to double pumpers. Which was easy since it is the same with two sets of primaries. But I have long since forgotten about which one I used. I had about a half dozen in my carb tuning kit, about a dozen jets, and about a dozen cams. I also always had a power valve or two just sitting in there in case. I NEVER changed the diaphragm spring on the secondaries. I do not think you need to unless you are just dying for fuel. Here is a rule I remember reading about. IF you can feel your secondaries kick in, the tune is off. They will only really open at high load settings anyway in the upper RPM band. The engine will only pull what it needs from the secondaries. So it is sort of self tuning to a degree. That is the beauty of the vacuum secondary carb. It is a great design. You are at that point were you are trying to make very fine tuning adjustments. If the car starts and idles and runs without any noticeable flat spots then you are over half way there. I spent months thinking with my Holleys trying to eek out a tenth here and there, but I had a measurable metric. I had a 1/4 mile time. And I could tune for a specific thing, which was drag racing. Coming out the hole hard and then staying in the sweet spot to red line under Wide Open Throttle. From what I gather you are not doing drag racing runs which can be used to quantify your results. So you can get into the circle of chasing a fantasy perfect setting where the whole car will wake up instantly. The truth is that probably will not happen. If you have a lean spot or an off idle stumble then yes, that can be tuned away to a degree. But if the car is running decently with your Holley, then without a yardstick to measure your results, you may end making things worse more than you make them better.

Yes, they are through holes. But you probably have corrosion all around that bolt. It may prove a worthy adversary. I would try heating it a bit. You will no doubt ruin the gasket in there, but then again, you can always replace that.

well if you want to get really crazy, do not just tune the accelerator pump cam. Change out the squirter on top of the housing that discharges fuel into the carb. Those made a huge difference in the way the fuel is delivered. You can really tune a holley to do darn near anything once you get an understanding of the circuits.

Check out your CFM rating but that sounds pretty healthy to me!!!!!

OH the new header I ordered from MSA was ceramic coated. I just found the first pic of the reducer I could. Now having said that. I know that the reducer is NOT coated, just the header. So I may send that off, AFTER I get the O2 bung welded in. We will see. I am in wait mode for parts, but today after work I need to get some drop cloths and some painters masking tape so I can start sanding and painting the engine bay. I think I am going to just concentrate on the highly visible areas. I do plan on getting the whole car resprayed in the future, so I will have to think how I want to tackle that as well. Not sure a few weeks are in the schedule Ben, but I will keep you in mind for sure it this drags out! man, that thing is awesome Ben, I just looked at it. 12cfm of air at 80 psi, you would need a HAUS of a compressor to run that thing.

205/55/15's are the plan. I currently have 195/60/15 which are practically brand new. I run upgraded pads, fluid and SS lines now. Car currently feels great under braking. But we will see. I certainly have to draw a line somewhere in this project. Not sure where that is going to be exactly. We will just have to wait and see.