Zedyone_kenobi

Yes I would do a great deal of shameful things for that wheel

Not sure, but 13.7" seems to ring a bell. I just really like the wooden wheel guys. I put it back on the car and I like how the wood feels in my hands. The slight grainy texture. It just brings another sensory connection to the classic nature of the car back to me. Its probably all in my head. But as part of staying original, it just seems to fit the car, or rather what I see the car tuning into someday. I just think I jumped the gun a bit too fast on this purchase. That money probably should have been spent on some S12 brakes and master cylinder upgrade. Hind site and all. I am far from perfect, and at times I will make a mistake with a purchase. I realized it when I walked away and I just could not shake how it looked in the car. The wheel will find a good home I am sure. But for the foreseeable future, I am going to stick with the old fashioned wood. Time to move on to the next mod. I have to find the right shifter to fit through my transmission tunnel with minimal mods. I have read the threads, and know what I am looking for.

Judging by the quality if car I say the trams America has worlds more to offer After all you can only see so many 69 camaros before they all look the same

Frank, I just went for a 30 miles drive and I guess I am old as well, but I really felt like I was holding the wheel to my XBOX 360 steering wheel. It is just too small. The steering effort is significantly increased and I felt like I was holding onto a toy wheel. It looks wonderful and is amazingly strong and well made. But it is not for me. So long story short. ANYBODY WANT TO BUY A MOMO PROTOTIPO WITH 30 MILES ON IT? PERFECT CONDITION. I paid 300 dollars for the adapter and the wheel with shipping, but I will take 200 for both plus shipping. PM me with offer. I really love the look and the feel of my faux wood wheel. I like how it looks better. I am an old soul I suppose, but I like my wood wheel.

Thanks for the humor and comments. I will need to go for a real drive before I make my final decision. AFter all, we get these cars to drive them. But unfortunately, it is pouring rain here, and today was the 2nd big car show to get rained out. I swear somebody has it out for me. How can it be dry for weeks, and then rain on the ONE day I want to go to a car show!

Wow, this is an amazing thing to behold. Go little 240Z Althought, I bet that mark I escort was a HOOT to drive on that gravel.

I drove the car again for some pleasure cruising, and I can say I have absolutely NO flat spot or hesitation. Fixing the float levels did more than anything else did. The car drives wonderfully. I still do not know if my AFR is spot on as I was enjoying the drive and feel and sound so much I did not even take the gage out of the glovebox. But final jetting still needs to be verified, but I am darn close now, I may just leave it alone until I get these on my L28.

Okay, I spent all of 20 minutes installing this tonight. And at first I was worried that the depth would be an issue. Or rather the flatness of the wheel. However, that turned out not to be such a big deal, as the adapter to fit onto the Datsun column was about as deep as the wheel was, and the overall difference is about a half inch closer to the driver. What I was not prepared for was the small diameter. I thought 1 inch would not be noticeable, but my gosh it is. Perhaps it is the combination of the thickness and the diameter reduction, but I have to let it gel for a few weeks before I decide if I am going to leave it. I like it, and it feels great, but somehow a small part of me thinks it looks out of place...opinions? I am setting up the car for a 1000 mile rally right now in November and I thought this would make the ride more enjoyable... Keep in mind I just refinished my OEM wheel, and I think it looks brilliant.

Guys I am not going to swap diffs anytime soon. I am quickly approaching my budgetary limits. The Eiji motor, the new tranny, new clutch, new triples I really should start a new build thread My diff was not part of the plan Haha

have you ever thought of a career selling drugs? As you have the pressure sales pitch down! haha

I consider your words to be gold sir Consider a 240z clutch kit ordered

Man that is so true! Ha ha Also the term collar keeps getting used Is that the same thing I would call the sleeve which pushes the throw out bearing.

Well I fight with staying original and modifying my car all the time. I struggle to keep it as much a 71 Datsun as I can, as I like the personality. Truthfully, I chose the type B 4 speed unit for no other reason. My car is a 7/71, and they phased in the B types in that ballpark, as 72's probably started being manufactured around august or September if I had to guess. So I justified it to myself that I could still sort of pass this off as an original transmission to myself at least! Now as for brakes, YESSIR. I am am currently running the upgraded pads and shoes on my car, but I am most likely going to buy the 4 piston kit from MSA while I am rebuilding the whole front end. Remember all of this is to get ready for the TEXAS 1000 vintage rally. So 1000 miles of quick stops means that even though my current brakes and booster are new, having 4 pots in the front is never a bad idea. I am going to replace my hardened TC rod bushings with the other pivot ball kit MSA sells, and I will probably replace the tie rods and ball joints while I am at it. Might as well. So from what I am reading since I have a 240Z slave cylinder, 240Z clutch fork and 240Z master cylinder, I should just order a 240Z clutch kit (Thanks Diseazd). My slave is adjustable with the hole in the fork as Marty suggested. It has worked wonderfully, and is less than 2 years old as I just went through all of that. However, if I go with a 280Z 225mm clutch then I need to find a new clutch fork and slave cylinder. I am not running the stock flywheel, so I have no idea what thickness it is. But this is a good rules of thumb thread. RULES of THUMB for CLUTCH SELECTION Keep slave cylinder, clutch fork, and clutch collar matched to the clutch you want to use. Use a 225 mm coupe clutch kit for most applications unless you really need more grip and then you can upgrade to a 2+2 clutch

Okay, I am still confused guys. I am about to buy a clutch kit, and I find clutch kits for 240Z and 260Z with one part number, and clutch kits with 280Z with another part number. Then I hear that people run 240Z clutches with L28's. AAAAAAAHHHH too much info. I am putting an L28 with a Type B 4 speed in my Z. Now, I bought my Tranny form Z carsource, and it is a thing of beauty, but all I know is it is a B type form 72-79. I have no idea which car it came from. It could have been a 240z, a 260Z, or a 280z. So with that being said, I am not sure which clutch kit to buy. I am satisfied with a stock type of clutch. But should I buy a L28 clutch for a 280Z or a 280ZX. I hear some of you bought a 280ZX clutch kit. I have found those. Can I use my 240Z slave cylinder and clutch fork?

What a beauty frank! I cannot wait to see her in person!

I worked that launch! I miss my shuttles.

Your killing me Frank! I just bought a new rebuilt type B 4 speed from zcarsource! The day I have a 5 speed will probably be the day I trade the numbers 2-4-0 with 9-1-1

Initial test drive indicates my transition stumble has taken another progressive step to non existence. I drove it without even taking the AFR gage out of the glove box to see what I was running and I was very pleasantly surprised by the smoothness of the throttle. AFR results to come on Monday. But setting the float level definitely helps in getting the mains to come on sooner. Very happy I did this. Everything you read about tuning webers says Do the float levels first. Now I see why, the difference from factory set to dead on is substantial. The transition from progression circuits to mains is almost imperceptible. I think if I were to go down on my air corrector again, and then see what my AFR are, I will be in business, but for now, I will leave all alone until I get it on the highway to see what my 4th gear cruise AFR is.

Hey NASA employee here! I work for the government! I'm here to help! Hahaha

I would like to help out any way I can. I would be happy to donate

Travel'n man, Your car always makes me stop and look twice every single time I see it. You really did a great job!

Today I redid my cable linkage and set the floats to dead on 25 mm using my gage. Since I raised all of them (number 2 was actually low as well) I would imagine that my mains should come in sooner. I will also predict that I will probably be far richer at cruise as well. I will let you know how it is running Monday

I think my addiction comes from my inherent need to improve things. I have not added all my receipts and I dare not attempt it. But yes I have spent a bit but not as much as some (denial is what stage of addiction, I forget) I think my car and I are about average in the Z world. I am having a blast. A z is such a beautifully simple thing. I love working on it. I will try to get accurate measurements of my float levels tomorrow and report back. Anybody know how many times you can reuse float bowl gaskets?

What rear spoiler did you go with? When I repaint my Z I want to install a new rear spoiler... who did you go with?

Behold the Keith Franck Weber float measuring device! This goes into where the emulsion tubes go. All you do to check the real float level, is to remove the round jet cover, and then unscrew one of your main jet/emulsion tubes. You run the car and in bright light, you can slowly stick the end down into the hole. IF you look carefully, you can see the fuel come into contact with the tube as you stare at the end of the tube. Keith says to do this is bright light and he was right. I did this very quickly, and did not measure the distances, but my first carb (the one nearest the front of the car) showed the line on the tube several mm below the white sleeve meaning the fuel level was LOW. My second carb indicated contact with the fuel before the line ever came into view, indicating a HIGH fuel level. The third carb again indicated low, meaning the indicator line on the acrylic tube was below the white sleeve. This goes to show you that the factory settings are merely 'in the ball park' of right. Not at all the ideal 25mm from the top surface. Do not fret the double lines on the tube. The are just 25mm from either end, so it does matter which end you use. I like this method, and I will adjust my floats when I have a couple of hours to dedicate to the job. Great products here by Keith Franck.