Zedyone_kenobi

Webers are on and the car is running. (see post in carb forum for full details) Long story short, let me say this clearly... NO MORE PART THROTTLE POPPING I will sacrifice a Datsun OEM thermostat to the WEBER carb gods.

Drove the car today. WHAHOOOOO I first disconnected the linkages from the throttle bar on each carb. Then I unscrewed progression hole cap. I adjusted each throttle plate so that none of the first hole was uncovered, but was just going to be uncovered upon first movement of the throttle shaft. I then unscrewed the idle mixture screws one full turn as a way to get the car to idle at all with only a 1/4 or 1/2 turn from fully seated. THe car settled into a nice 1100 rpm idle once fully warm. I could not fit my new synchronizer on the air horns as there is just no room, so I ordered the snorkel for it today. So I used my unisyn. Now as you know Weber guys, the only way to increase or decrease air flow into the car is to move the throttle shafts. BUT that may uncover a progression hole. My solution to this was to start over and adjust all the idle speed screws so that I had a little more play area before I uncovered a progression hole and then start to sync the air flow. Well long story short, I got them all pretty close, but my unisyn varies from run to run, so I am going to stop fiddling with air flow until I can use my real tool. First drive, I was ultra lean. I would go completely dead with any application of the throttle at all. Like shutting down the engine all together, and my wideband would read 20:1. OUCH. So I adjusted the idle mixture screws a half turn at a time until I was reading about 12:1 at idle. Then I set out on my next drive. WOW, I was thrilled with the response. Pulls very nicely. I was almost scared to rev it with part throttle to my 4500 rpm point. But I did in second gear and it was smoooooooooth. Let me reiterate. I have ZERO popping through my exhaust at 4500 rpm at part throttle. My only problem now is that I do not have the pedal adjusted correctly, as I never get full throttle. I will need to get my wife out there to help me do that. But the car needs no choke at all to start from cold. I have not even checked the timing, but the driveability is amazing. THe sound.. heee..heee.. I am still smiling. I just wish I could get them to idle lower. I am stuck idling at 1000 rpm now. I will play with that idle speed circuit again when I have more time. But she is running and looking great. Oh I discovered slow leak on my fuel filter added before the pump by the tank! DRAT. I should have used teflon tape on those fittings. And now the pics! I took off that filter holder just for you Carl!

UPDATE: I got the car running last night. I have not balanced them yet, but it starts and idles very easily. I do not think my return spring is strong enough though. It idles smoothly, but does not idle any lower than 1400 rpm. But I have today to work on that. I will start by getting the air flow balanced then work on getting the air fuel correct. I can see the balancing act here. YOu want to get the carbs balanced with the idle low enough while not uncovering the first progression hole. It is a very interesting set of interdependencies... I am really looking forward to this. I am VERY happy I have a wideband O2 installed right now!!

Looks like an absolute blast man! Good on you for enjoying that Datsun. Makes me look forward to the rally I have coming up in November. Also, you just convinced me to pick up a camera to video some of my runs. I have an old GO Pro wide, but it is not HD an the sound on it just sucks.

Is that a defect blue, or is just an inherent Weber 'thing' I will keep an eye on it.

Okay, I could not sleep, so I got up and took the car off jack stands and adjusted the fuel pressure to 2-2.5 psi, and let the pump run for about 30 seconds. Zero leaks from anywhere. I am going to set the idle mixture screws to 1.5 turns out, the idle speed screws to 1/2 turn from contact with the throttle, and have a go today after work!!! Wahoo, this is getting exciting! Well maybe I should put those springs in the bottom of the carbs holding the heat shield instead of a washer... hummm, okay after that it is vroom vroom time.

Thought about it laying in bed this morning. I have the rear of the car jacked up quite a bit so that may be the cause of my leak. I will check today

That is awesome! Thanks Leon! UPDATE: I figured out my return spring situation, and for now I am happy, but I forsee a much cooler solution in the future using the fuel rail. However, that is hooked up. I fired up the CARTER pump, and yes, it is a bit loud, but once the car is running I do not think it will be an issue. I had a leak at the pump I had to tinker with to get to seal. Finally found some yellow teflon tape approved for fuel and it sealed it up tight. Absolutely NO AN fitting leaked on ounce, so that is money well spent. I had no other fuel leaks save one. I noticed some fuel on my heat shield... and then noticed that number two carb was dripping a bit. I had the pressure up to 3 psi at the time. Holley reg works with ease. I am guessing my float could be off, which would not surprise me, as absolutely NOTHING has been right yet with this install. Every single thing required some form of modification to work. So I am guessing that in order to check the float, I have to pull the top cover off. Before I set out and do a huge search, is there a quick way to set the float?

Referencing Arne's recommendation. I had the centercaps in a drawer while this was taken. but I have some 15x7 panasports sitting in boxes ready to be shipped as we speak! Make offer.

You can set up a crank trigger ignition for 399 dollars? I did not know that. I am running a recurved factory dizzy at the moment, no vacuum advance. I was thinking of going mallory as well, but will hold off on pulling that trigger until I have the carbs more in tune. Never change that many things at once! You never want to second guess your carbs AND your ignition if you have a choice.

I have spent so much time working on my car, I have not given this any thought, but I still mean to make a run of it. I am going to the TEXAS 1000 in November put on by: www.vintagerallies.com I have been working to get the Datsun ready for that feverishly. So with that being said, this summer, I will not be able to plan this. However, I will say this. The TEXAS 1000 goes on the same roads as I was planning last year. So I will learn a lot in doing this rally, combine that with what I learned and the connections I made last year, I will definitely be putting another rally together in the future. I just cannot stay married and do two of them. I will work something out soon, and get something on the calender. I still have to get my car running on its webers, and then prepare for my engine coming in form DAtsun Spirit, AND my transmission swap from Zcarsource. Its going to be a busy busy summer.

I think I have the same pump, and I have it all hooked up and will hopefully fire it up tonight. A lot of how loud these pumps are is in how you mount them. If your carter is the same as mine, then it came with rubber bushings. I put those in between the frame and the pump bracket, AND in between the pump and the pump bracket. The pump is double isolated. It still may be loud, but the install is clean and extremely rugged and durable. I will let you know how she performs, hopefully in less than 24 to 48 hours.

I am using the same heat shield sourced from Japan. Right now I have it installed with Zero springs, and just use washers and bolts. I found it easier to get a socket on the bottom nuts if I took the air horns off. REally gives you some hand room to maneuver. That washer technique is a good one Mike. My problem is when I installed my studs I used that hardcore aviation grade locktite my dad gave me. And I installed them so that their is not much stud length on the outside...(:stupid:), But now that I have everything held in place, I could probably remove one at a time and install the spring on each one. Other than that, I only need to find some return springs today at a local parts store. Carl, Mr. K bobblehead would be perfect! hahah

I did the next best thing, I read the directions! I got her on. Today I just about finished up the install. I have all the electrics hooked up. Verified all the fittings are tightened. I have the throttle cable ran, and attached to the rod. I have all the arms adjusted to exactly the same length. The only thing I have to do is get a longer return spring somewhere, as my SU return spring is not going to work out as well as I thought it would. Then turn the key and check for fuel pressure and leaks! Then it is set the carbs at a good starting setup and let her rip!!! Very exciting! I am looking forward to hearing her run. This has been a long process, as every single part going on the car had to be modified or made to work with the OEM datsun stuff. I guess if I were not abject to cutting up my car, it could have gone faster, but the OEM car lasted 42 years, and I do not mean to do anything that will not last another 42.

UPDATE: I finally was able to get back into the garage late tonight. I got my throttle cable hooked up, which was of course, not a direct fit and required some clever drilling and filing. With that being said, I have a new name for my pain... It is called the heat shield. How the sam HELL do you get that thing bolted on with those stupid little springs that came in the weber kit. There is just no room to install them!!! Any tricks!

yeah, this is definitely in the Future mods category It just killed me to pull those choke cables out of my firewall when I installed the Webers. I hate having a non functional part inside my car.

I spent the early part of my life tinkering with Holley carbs. They are wonderfully easy to mess with, and simple to work on. The have very understandable primary and secondary circuits. but OZ connection is right. The key to a good running engine is knowledge first and foremost. Read as much as you can on holley vacuum secondary carbs, then gain as much data as you can. Forget about the library, go to amazon and BUY that holley book. It will serve you well. You will gain something new each time you read it. Also I will echo, you cannot tune a car with carbs sitting in neutral. It does not work that way. The engine needs load to produce driving conditions.

best of luck buddy!

Tacked on, But that is how they did it in the70's, they tacked it on! HAHA

Just want to update this thread, as it was the genesis if my triples review thread. I am about a week away from starting up the car with triples! We will see what the air fuel ratio is when I get her going, of course the chances of the jetting be right out of the box is next to Zero, but it should get running and at least move fine enough. My gosh I miss driving her.

Oh yeah let the fabrication party begin!

Bingo guys I found where the rear green wire ends up. I hooked up a voltmeter to the green wire in back and propped up the meter near the rear tire. Then ran a 12v hot jumper straight to the battery and used that as my ping signal:cool: I looked for green wires and low and behold I found my connector and started to get 12.7 volts back to the pump wire HUZZAH! I just need to hook it up to a 12V switched power (like the black/white wire directly next to it on the same plastic plug shown in blues Picture) and fit a 20 amp fuse and relay and presto! Power to the pump! This really goes to show the value of an original car who has all stock wiring

I have not wired in a relay at all. I have seen the green wire in the back, and I do not care how it gets back there, but I have NO idea where it is in the cabin. After it goes in the chassis in the back it is GONE. I guess I could start pulling interior bits off to find it, but I really do not want to! If I knew where it was, I could tap into it. I still want to wire in a relay, but I will worry about that after I get the car running.

I went to ebay motors and typed in the search engine "universal fuel rail" Got more hits than I care to mention... http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3841.m570.l1313&_nkw=universal+fuel+rail&_sacat=

Ah yes, the age old question, how to ship a car. Well there are as many ways as there are Z's out there to ship. Well not that many, but get the picture. Questions you need to ask yourself are: How much do you want to spend max? Do you want the car picked up and dropped off to you? Do you want an enclosed Trailer or on back of a flatbed? Are you willing to work around the shippers schedule? Do you require a large name brand, or will a guy and a truck suffice? When I bought my Z from North Carolina, I had it shipped via enclosed trailer to Houston Texas. It was about 1390 dollars door to door. Here is the truck and how it arrived at my house. You can make your decision, but peace of mind was worth the extra money I spent. now having said that, I am looking at those 240Z stickers on my car that I removed and they are suddenly looking far better than they use to.. Hummmmm