Zedyone_kenobi

No it is there bud, but I cannot find where that wire is IN THE CABIN. I know the rear wiring harness comes into view again around the passenger door. I have no idea where that wire goes inside the car is my issue. It is not getting any power that is for sure. I know the green wire is suppose to get 12V, but unless I find it in the cabin and feed it some power, I will have to run a wire.

Well here is an update on the install. I laid on the ground for about an hour last night with the electric fuel pump in one hand and the pump pre-filter in the other. I pondered how to get them in there safely and smartly so that the hoses are not too kinked, and it was as OEM as I could make it. I finally found away to route the darn fuel lines without disturbing any of the factory fittings, clamps, or hard lines. I am very pleased how this turned out. Next I turned my attention to the electrical side. I really hate messing with wiring, but since I could not get any power to my rear green wire, AND I could not find where that particular wire surfaced again under the dash, I pulled off my center console (had to do that anyway, as I need to decide what I am going to do with my choke cables) Low and behold, I found this little jewel still taped up with factory blue datsun electrical tape and tucked away. Well I think it was from the factory. It has a green wire, AND a black/white wire. The green wire acts weird when the key is turned and fluctuates a millivolt reading constantly. However, the black/white wire, which is 12V in darn near every other place on the car is a switched 12V supply here as well. Eureka! I still need to run the wire to the pump in the most unobtrusive way I can. I would like to run it inside the car all the way to the back, but I may run it next to the factory fuel lines so I can keep it wire tired close to the tranny tunnel. We will see. dhoneycutt, Thanks very much. You should see it now. I spent an hour polishing it with some aluminum polish last night. Looks like chrome for the moment. I purchased a 30" length of extruded aluminum tubing. It had a 1/2" hole through it. It was round on one side and square on the other. I cut it to be about the length of the valve cover, so I could use 90 deg bends to go around it. The brackets I made allow me to get access to the valve cover bolts without taking off the fuel rail. I also used longer studs in the intake so I could remove the fuel rail without taking off torque from the intake. I used the square side to attach my carb fittings (drilled and tapped 3/8" NPT using Russell -AN fittings) I thrn drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT for the autometer fuel gauge after the third carburetor. I tapped Both ends of the line to accept 3/8" NPT. Right now the front end has an NPT fitting to a 90 deg bend that goes to the fuel regulator. I have since fabricated a support bracket to hold the fuel line secure so it is not dangling in the front of the engine. The back of the fuel rail is plugged, but I think I may run a return line in the future to factory spot next to the alternator. I can run a -4 AN line with a restricter in it to give the pump something to push against. This will keep the fuel circulating. So far I have not altered the car in any way permanently, and can go back to SU's in an afternoon. My goal is to not cut, chop, or bend anything I do not have to. I may remove the fuel rail one more time to manufacture a way to attach return springs... but I have not decided on that yet. My goal is to be running before the 21'st, which is a great car show I went to 2 years ago and got beat by an old celica.. which was a shame!

I do agree with you A well tuned engine is more important than peak numbers

You know after reading it again, I could have worded that better! Hahaha

I have finished my initial brackets for my custom fuel rail. I took my inspiration from the OEM brackets that hold the OEM fuel rail. I need to round the corners and sand and paint them. Also, I am not happy with the supplied fittings that came with the DCOE's. I ordered some straight banjo fittings from CArbs Direct to clean up my installation. As you can see with piece of scrap fuel line shown, the bend that extreme is not desirable. I have been shortening the hose from the front of the fuel rail to the regulator on the front fender, and I almost have it to where I like it. I still need to swap which sides the carbs actuate from and install my heat shield, but that should not be an issue. I still need to fabricate a bracket for the front of the engine to hold the fuel near the valve cover, and wire up my pump. But here it is so far. Things are shaping up! I ordered a new arm to actuate my rod. That linkage rod came from McMasters, and it is was a 5/16" mini drive shaft. It is CRAZY straight. However, I warn you guys. I selected next day air on a 22 dollars drive shaft. Thinking well I want this fast, as I have a car show I really want to enter on the 21st so I want to get this quickly! 43 DAMN DOLLARS to next day air it.. OUCH! You see they let you select next day air, but they tell you it will be added to your price and billed. Your total will be mailed to you in a few days! Well live and learn on that one. HAHAHA :stupid::stupid:

I was faced with the exact same issue as you. I pride myself on my cars originality, but take some advice. Build the car you want to drive. Do not let the car own you. Make it what you want and drive it and enjoy

Got my fuel rail done today. I love it will take some pics soon

You could take it further if you wanted to. Buy a simple piece of sheet metal at hardware store and attach it to the heat shield with another bolt in between creating an air barrier between the headers and the carbs. Caine that with the adhesive wrap and you will be seriously protecting your carbs from heat

Can you elaborate more on the location of the wire in the dash. I am about to pull the console looking for it!!

I know, it is just awesome to start something and you only have a notion of how you will finish it. Back in college getting my engineering undergraduate, we called this an open ended design problem. THE BEST KIND! Have fun madkaw! Keep us in the loop, I am builidng up my triples now too as you know. We should compare notes!

My black wire has nothing going to it at all, But when I connect a multimeter to the green one, the voltage fluctuates in a set frequency, much like the fuel sending unit. If I were a betting man, I should be tapping into the black/white one. That color combo carries 12V all over the darn car!!!

I See, time to dig through the wiring diagram. I think the wire was either black, or green/yellow, which could mean it was green and white but dirty. The blackwire had a male bullet style connector on it.

Well normally I would say it was way to expensive for me as well Frank. But I figure I have 7 months to save up for it. And my brother and I are splitting it. Of course that means I have to let him drive my Z, which I have reservations about, but still I only have to come up with half that amount. Now back to carbs. My order form McMaster CAR came in and the 5/16" mini drive shaft was polished perfection. It turns smoothly in my rod ends on my Cannon manifold. I am expecting my LOKAR cable to come in today or tomorrow. I Still need to find a power wire for my Carter Electric Fuel pump. I mounted it on the vertical plane that holds the rear lower control arm bushing. Seems like a perfect place. Having to fit a fuel filter in that location is going to be a bear though. But that is part of the fun. Both extra wires I have dangling from my fuel sending unit wiring harness do not provide 12 volts when I turn the key, I may need to find another keyed 12 V source. I also made good head way on my custom fuel rail. I managed to get the extruded aluminum cut to a good length and both ends tapped to accept the 3/8" NPT fittings. Also got a whole bunch of Russell -6 AN fittings into play with. Still have no idea how I am going to mount the LOKAR cable to the carbs, and I am not sure where return springs are going to mount. I sense more custom metal cutting in my near future. Blue I ordered that synchronizer you have listed there. I figured it was a step up from my old Unisyn. I will snap some pics soon.

How are you NOT rubbing in the front Madkaw?

Ditto.. I also like how the 14" rims look!

Agreed! I had the unfortunate experience of driving my 2001 Subaru 2.5RS off a cliff on Latigo Canyon road on the Southern california coast. Fel 73 feet and went end over end 3 times and landed on the roof. I was not even bruised. My seatbelt saved my life. Well that and the awesome tank like construction of my Impreza

My weekends are hosed Mike, as my wife is in school on Saturdays, for her masters. So I am babysitting every saturday with my amazingly active 4 year old! I would love to go, and one day I am going. I agree, it would be a whole lot of fun to meet you! I have not given up on the Great Texas Z rally. I promised everybody a spring run, but time constraints, and this engine build have taxed me. I have also pulled the trigger on the TEXAS 1000 November 11-16, 2012, put on by www.vintagerallies.com It is expensive, but I have been saving money every month for a while. And it will be an early 40th birthday present. If you can swing it, look into that rally. It is NOT cheap, but it looks amazing!!!!!!

Oh where did you get those sweet air cleaners for your stacks. Been looking for those

Mike it is scary how similar we think! I ordered 5/16th rod stock from mcmaster car today as well as a Lokar throttle cable! I am fabricating my own fuel rail as we speak but need to track down a drill press to finish. I am still on the fence right now about the linkage kit. I like how it looks on your car One question. It looks like you made some brackets for return springs on the first and second carb, why not the third? We have very similar setuos Mike. I will be chiming in here in this thread to keep you up to date on my install. I also have coated headers from MSA and have yet to install my heat shield. Very close setups indeed!

I was going to video an example of just that. What I did was turn out the lights and shined a bright flashlight into the manifold side of the carb opening. I wanted to see when I would uncover the progression holes just for the reason you mentioned. So far so good. when I applied the slighted amount of pressure to the throttle I got a sliver of light through the first progression hole. I think they may have modified the 151's. Are all butterfies on webers chamfered? This knife edge was a trick to help throttle tip in. (according to the Weber book I am currently reading )

Thanks Blue. I will let you know how it goes if you are interested.

I am trying to install a set of 40mm DCOE webers I got from MSA for my 240Z. The purpose is to get the fuel system up and running before my new L28 gets here. I have to say the carbs are beautiful. They came set up as follows: 30mm venturi 130 main Fuel Jet 170 Air corrector F11 Emulsion tube 55F9 idle/slow running mixture jet (I may have to double check this one, it was hard to read at night) Naturally it came with a Cannon manifold as standard fare. Here is where I noticed my first initial quality lapse. The cannon manifold had very noticeable casting/machining edges that protruded into the bore of each runner that I had to knock down with a file then sandpaper. I got all that smooth as butter after about an hour. When I tried to mount it to the car, it hit my old MSA headers on cylinder number 6 and would not seat onto the head. I had to pull it off and slowly remove material with the Dremel so that it would clear the header. Also, the header was 0.600" thick, and the Cannon is 0.495" thick so I had a hard time getting an equal preload on both parts, but finally after much shaving down of weld material, and washers, I got a nice load on all the bolts. My initial impressions of the linkage kit were okay, right up until I noticed my linkage rod that all the arms that actuate each carb bolt to was slightly bent. Which meant that when it was place through all three rod ends it is VERY hard to turn. I may have to find another one. Or at least some 0.312" bar stock and make my own. The kit came with no return springs at all, just a note. I am currently deciding on how I want to run my fuel lines and if I am going return line or not. I have read all the posts on that so I am still making a decision. also, very important lesson here so listen up. If you plan to go all fancy smancy and use -AN fitting everywhere like I did prepare to get your wallet gorilla raped! Ouch, Russell is proud of that shiny stuff. another note, do not think that a -8 AN fitting (read as 8/16" or a half inch) can fit into a half inch hole, even if it is a 1/2" NPT to -8 AN adapter. I made the mistake of getting too ambitious with my ordering and did not take the time to look at how big -8 hoses are. NPT sizes are called out referring the INNER DIAMETER (as an engineer I should not have forgotten that) Keep everything -6 (3/8") and you will be far happier. So now I am left to ponder two things. What am I going to do about my bent linkage rod? Am I going to cut my stock SU linkage rod from the firewall to mate with supplied linkage rod, or run the LOKAR cable kit Am I going to run a return line or not. So my impressions of the MSA redline kit are mixed. The weber product line is fantastic. But the Cannon and linkage stuff supplied was quickly thrown together.

Getting a car like this would be a dream. And I echo all my colleges advice. But promise me you will sit down and be realistic with your time and your money. Set aside a realistic budget for this car that matches your expectation of how you want to use it. Deciding to work on a Z (or any classic car really) is like deciding to own a new puppy. It is a big commitment. IT will take time and money. If you are willing to give it that, then the rewards are spectacular. You got the car for free, so already you are about 6000 dollars ahead of the game. If you are willing to spend about that much now, you will have on your hands a very reliable driver. But lets be realistic. This car is approaching 40 years old. It will need all the important rubber replaced. vacuum lines, fuel lines, most weather stripping, etc. Most bushings will be tired. But one thing at a time! Do not get overwhelmed. You will find most parts for the Z are relatively inexpensive compared to anything modern. Start a Z journal. Write down everything you do. Write down fluid changes, dates, times, brands. Write down numbers, websites. Draw diagrams, take pictures and tape them in. I have almost 100 pages of such a journal documenting everytime a wrench touched my Z. I can go back and find out when and what I did, who I got parts from. This will serve you well. I also recommend making a list starting with the fluid changes previously recommended. Try not to get overwhelmed and at any time ask any of us for help. Also, prepare to get told to drop those flat top SU carbs you have and get some Ztherapy carbs. You will hear this more than once, and it is very good advice. Best of luck buddy.

It's been bypassed since day one. I have had a 3 ohm coil in there for a year. I just was curious if the Petronixs could get too much voltage. I Installed a 1.5 ohm coil today and put the resister back in line but I may try it bypassed tomorrow with the 1.5 ohm coil anyway. What is the worst that could happen By the way car popped with 1.5 ohm coil in line and with 3 ohm coil with resister bypassed. Have not tried 1.5 ohm coil with resister bypassed. I am sure coil can handle it

I received a huge order from MSA today with some lovely new triple webers to play with! Oh the joy!